NO INTERNAL LIGHTS FUSE BLOWN, WHICH FUSE IS IT?

CAR DRIVEs PERFECTLY? (head lamps work, brake lamps work and parking lamps all work.


TELL THE GOOD AND BAD BOTH.;'
when did you last see cars turns signals work perfect, (never) or after new LED lamps put(wrong to do )?


CHECK all fuses FIRST.?
new facts.
all external Turn signals dead. and hazards. lamps too but they are the same lamps as turns.
internal IP cluster lamp turns blink and works, but flashes fast.

for decades now the faster modules do that act (fast) as warning.

warns of shorted lamps (or wires) on the 4 corners of car lamps.

on modern cars with computers (BCM) the lamps act up 2 ways fast to warn of opens and shorts.
sadly last OPEL here USA 1975. (so no books here) zero schematics , sadly.

the to way find this is inspect (turn sigs) on all 4 corners. inspect wiring.

what is so odd is why both sides fail.

this almost never happens unless 2 lamps are shorted left and right. outside
or wrong flasher relay used.
or installing LED lamps on cars making the flasher totally useless
trailer hitch connectors a mess.?
wiring under dash a mess. (turns)?
or the column TURNS lever switches bad..?

Possibly an internal failure of the reverse switch. The blown fuse is for both the reverse and the turn signal lights. The fix is replacement of the reverse switch.

internal short.. get another unit

just to be safe replace any blown fuse you see. If no fuses are blown then its an internal wiring problem

The Park Lamps and Instrument Panel illumination lamps are controlled by the lighting control module. The problem could be either the headlamp switch or the Lighting control module. Most likely, the head lamp switch.
The most likely cause of the brake lamps not working would be a failed Brake Pedal Position (BPP) switch. It could also be caused by the multifunction switch. To find out if it is the BPP, check for power at the BPP switch. One terminal has a Light Green and Red (LG/R) wire and the other has a Plain Light Green (LT GN) wire. The LG/R wire should be hot at all times. The LT GN wire should be hot only when the pedal is pressed down.

If there is no power at all, there is probably a blown fuse at fuse #10 (20 Amp) in the Central Junction Box (CJB) located uder the left side of the dash. If this fuse is blown, you have a short circuit between the CJB and the BPP switch.

If there is power only on the LG/R wire even with the pedal pressed, then replace the BPP switch.

If there is power on both sides of the BPP then check fuses #20 (7.5 Amp) and #22 (20 Amp) also locatedin the CJB.

If fuse #20 is blown, you have a short between the BPP and the Lighting Control Module. If fuse #22 is blown, you could have a short anywhere from the BPP through the Multifunction Switch all the way back to the brake lamps themselves.

The Brake lamps, Turn Signals, and Park Lamps all share the same ground, so if the Turn Signals are working, it is not likely a ground problem.

Please also review this article: Where's The Fuse?

The tail and marker lights and Instrument lights are on the same circuit so both will go out if the fuse for this circuit blows. If fuse continues to fail, check the tail light or marker globes, including the globes for the number plate, for a globe that may have an internal short causing the fault and replace as necessary. As you have already checked the wiring near the light fittings for any chafed wires that could be shorting to the body causing the fault, then a closer inspection of the wires inside all the light assemblies for any shorts may be needed.

It could also be that the instrument dimmer control has failed and is causing the fault. The electronic bits inside the dimmer control for these lights sometimes go faulty. Try disconnecting the connecting plug on the rear of the dimmer control and checking if fuse still blows. If fuse continues to fail, then the fault in the tail and marker lights circuit.

Remove all the tail, number plate and running light globes from the light assemblies and leave the instrument dimmer control disconnected and check if fuse still blows.

Disconnect the plug near each of the light assemblies to see if any of the individual assemblies is causing the fault. With all light assemblies disconnected and fuse continues to fail, then the fault must be in the main wiring loom some where.

If you have a Multimeter, it could be used to determine which light assembly has a fault between the lamp supply and earth connection.

You probably have a short circuit in your lighting system that has blown the fuse for your tail lamps. If the fuse is blown, It needs to be diagnosed and repaired before replacing the fuse. It could also be a failed headlamp switch. Please also see this article: Where's The Fuse?

Check your fuse box, that light may have its own fuse that is blown. Or, you may have gotten a bad bulb from the package, rare but it does happen.

P0603 means Internal Control Module Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Error

In other words, that code is set when the PCM loses "keep alive" memory B+.

This code can also be set if the batteries went dead at some point, but mainly it means there is an open circuit detected in the KAM circuit.

On a '97 F-250, check for a 5 amp fuse blown in fuse cavity #2. If the fuse is blown, check for and repair the short-to-ground in circuit #729 (red with white coloured wire).

Good luck dear.

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you have a short somewhere, unplug the tail lamps one at a time and see if the fuse still blows. if you disconnect one and the fuse does not blow and everything else works, the problem is in the tail light assembly. if not, the short is most likely in the wiring harness which can be a bit tricky to diagnose. alldata.com/diy offers one year subscriptions to cars with all the repair info and they have excellent wiring schematics. dont forget to try the front marker lamps in addition to the tail lamps.