I have a n 87 chevy suburban and it sputter when i start up and i replaced the iac the map and the tps but the distributor shaft is loose will that cause truck to sputter and idle irract and theres no water in oil and i even spray soapy water around the intake to check for leaks what esle could be the problem

It seems like the problem lies with the engine management system, rather than the brakes. Given that you've already replaced the MAF, MAP, and TPS sensors, here are some other things to check:

1. Vacuum leaks: Inspect all vacuum lines for cracks or damage that may be causing a leak. A vacuum leak can cause erratic idling, poor acceleration, and stalling.

2. Idle air control (IAC) valve: The IAC valve controls the engine's idle speed. A malfunctioning IAC valve can cause the engine to stall during idling. Try cleaning the IAC valve with carburetor cleaner and see if the issue is resolved.

Try the Ignition Coil.

Change your fuel filter. Replace the distributor cap and rotor. If you have the HEI ignition, they are really bad about burning through the igniton rotor.

If you pull a breather hose loose and spray some carb cleaner down the throat and replace the hose will it try to start? You may have burnt the ignition fuse while tring to start it before. Check all fuses including under the hood. Check them all but we are looking mainly for the one marked ignition. If no luck there then I want you to test the ignition modulator. it is the little black or grey plastic coated half moon shaped box under the distributor cap mounted on the top of the distributor wrapped half way around the middle shaft. In order to check this you will need to take a hair dryer and heat the modulator up to very warm but be sure not to melt the outer covering. Hurry and replace the distrib. cap and get the dryer out of the way of the fan. try to start it. If it sputters or maybe even starts it is the culprit. I have had them even start and keep running after the test but will not start again after you shut it down. Let me know if we have gotten any place so far and I will go from there. Raz

Was the TPS replaced and set to the correct voltage as well?

I had a 99 Suburban that did almost the same thing, it turned out to be the Catyletic Converters were plugged. Try taking the exhaust pipe loose at the manifold for test purposes. If it runs good with the pipes loose, that's the problem. Replace the Cat's. There were no codes for either, it would start and run nice for about 5 seconds, then run rough and then stall.

sounds like a computer issue on the burb, but i would check the IAC(idle air control) valve and the TPS(throttle position sensor) first.
I would start with the IAC on the 93'.

which wires, to the injectors ? You don't wanna disconnect the Idle air control or the TPS...while cranking, the TPS if improperly installed can be an issue, but the IAC if stuck closed, wont let the car idle, neither will the EGR if it is hung open. also diconnect the map sensor, if it improves, replace it

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker try looking in trouble shooting.

I've Been reading up on this problem and working on an 89 suburban with the same problem, tps, vacuum leaks, fuel pump, fuel filter, IAC, EGR, MAP Sensors are not the problem