1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Logo
Posted on May 21, 2009
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Brakes are still spongy after changing the pads, one caliper, and master cylinder. bled front brakes.

Changed the brake pads including one caliper and master cylinder. Brakes are still spongy and will go to the floor. Bled the front brakes.

  • 6 more comments 
  • jeffery_lowe May 21, 2009

    HOw do I bleed the back drum brakes?

  • jeffery_lowe May 23, 2009

    I have bench bled the master cylinder and then bled all the brakes. The troubling part of this problem is that the brakes are nice and tight until I start the vehicle. Then the pedal goes to the floor. Could this be the power boost unit?

  • jeffery_lowe May 24, 2009

    The brakes do not get any higher when pumping them. They stay soft and go to the floor board. The back brakes have not been changed but I checked them and they have nearly full pad left. Changed left rear cylinder.

  • jeffery_lowe May 24, 2009

    Changed the master cylinder and also adjusted the back brakes. Could the power boost be causing this problem?

  • jeffery_lowe May 26, 2009

    Kept bleeding the right rear and found a small amount of air after about 2 cups of fluid. They are fine now. Thanks for your help.

  • Anonymous May 11, 2010

    Check the master cylinder accuator rod, between the master cylinder and the brake booster, make sure it is adjusted correctly, you should be able to remove the master to check this without disconnecting the brake lines, if it is adjusted correctly reinstall then verify bleeding. If you are positive you have all of the air out and still your prdal drops to the floor, I would return that master cylinder and get a new one. With no external leak and air out of the system the only thing that can cause the pedal to drop is internal master cylinder leakage, let me know what you find

  • Anonymous May 11, 2010

    do your brakes pump up? meaning if you pump the brakes while the engine is running will the pedal get firmer and higher from the floorboard? Have you replace rear brakes?

  • Anonymous May 11, 2010

    did you bench bleed the master cylinder before installation? First bleed the master at the connection lines one at a time, then since you replaced the master you will need to bleed all wheels, starting at the right rear first, then left rear, then right front then left front, ensure the master cylinder stays full during all bleeding, and that you bleed out all air from each location, then test brake pedal for firmness, let me know what happens

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I just went to Brake Masters this morning and had them replace the Master Cylinder since I was experiencing the pedal very spongy and going to the floor. When they replaced the Master Cylinder and they gave me back the car, the brakes were still spongy and going to the floor. I addressed this to them and they took another look at it, but when I took it for a second time, the brakes were extremely spongy. It was almost like they gave me back my car in worst condition to when I brought it in. Can you help?

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  • Posted on May 21, 2009
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You have air in the system. You need to bleed the brakes. Start at the right rear tire and then the left rear, then right front, the left front. Keep an eye on the res. don't let it run out of fluid. Pump the peddle and bleed in order outlined above. (don't release the peddle untill the bleeder is tight.)

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  • Anonymous May 22, 2009

    Look behind the drum.(stick your head in the finder well) At the top of the drum(on the back side) There is a bleeder.

  • Anonymous May 24, 2009

    If the brakes have all the air out, the pedel should stay at the top like normal. If the pedel starts out good and slowly goes to the floor, you may have gotton a bad mastercylender. It does happen. Sometimes air is harder than you think to get out, espically after doing as much work as you did. Try one more time bleeding them. Pump the pedel 'till it's hard then crack the bleeder. (don't let off the pedel after it goes to the floor. Make sure the bleeder is tightend up first) Syart at the rear wheels then the front. watch the master cylender :don't let it run out of fluid. If it still has a bad pedel, adjust the rear brakes. (spin the drum while you turn the adjuster.) If all else fails, try another mastercylender.

  • Anonymous May 25, 2009

    the booster only helps work the brakes, it has nothing to do with the hydrloic part of the system. It's got to be air. Check the connections (clean with brake cleaner). See if you can find a pressure bleeder. ( rent one??).

  • Anonymous May 26, 2009

    thank god, I thought I was loosing my mind!!

  • Rae Nap Nov 10, 2013

    It was my understanding the the vacuum booster is where the air gets sucked out before entering the brake lines. If booster is not working properly would this not cause air to enter the brake lines giving it it's spongy feel?

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  • Posted on May 26, 2009
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Glad you got it going, hope info was helpful, have a great day!

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2001 Silverado 2500 HD Why Rear brakes don't work after I installed new hydro-boost power booster, master cylinder, calipers, and pads. I bled master cylinder before installing, and brakes beginn

Hello Patricia,

Have you checked the master brake cylinder reservoir for brake fluid loss?

I don't suspect the master cylinder as you have replaced it... but am more suspect of a leaking brake line or fitting which should have
been discovered when you had the system bled.

The only time I ever had a rear brake problem with a 2500 series Chevrolet was due to seized rear brake caliper guide pins...as your calipers are also new that is not your problem.

If your brake pedal feels spongy and travels to the floor board you have air in the system, a brake fluid leak or a failure in the power steering system, such as a broken hose, broken power steering pump drive belt, or failed pump, would result in a loss of pressure to both the hydro-boost and steering.

Find more information here:

. Hydro Boost Power Assist Systems Operation Diagnosis and Repair
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Soft pedal on 03 grand caravan

Have you driven it since the brakes where replaced?

Did you bleed all four wheels?

have you "broken in" the new pads?

Are the rears drum or disk? If drum are they adjusted correctly?

are you using remanufactured master cylinders? If so keep replacing them. eventually you will get one that works. New is pricey but a better way to go.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

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DEPENDS WHAT PROCEDURE YOU USE TO REPLACE THEM.IF YOU PUSHED THE CALIPER PISTONS IN WITHOUT OPENING THE BLEEDER AND USING A **** CLOSED THE BRAKE HOSES YOU MANAGED TO SENT BACKWARDS THE FLUID INTO THE MASTER CYLINDER WHERE IS THE POSSIBILITY TO CAUSE THE SEALS ROLLING IN AND ARE NOT HOLDING PRESSURE. THE OTHER REASON IS EITHER YOU NEED TIME UNTIL THE BRAKES BED ON THE DISCS SURFACES.
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Brakes are spongy

Did you also bleed the rear brakes? Also try the gravity bleed method working from the right rear wheel, then left rear, right front, then left front. Be SURE to keep the master cylinder full at all times while bleeding.
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My kid bought a 99 Grand Am, the brakes were spongy and had to be pumped. The car now has new front calipers, pads, and new master cylinder. We bench bled the master cylinder and bled out the brakes. The...

If the car has Drum style rear brakes, make sure the adjustment is good. It takes a lot of fluid to activate them.
PS. I assume you did bleed the rears.
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Spongy brakes

So long as the brake booster is working, test it by turning on the engine, press the brake pedal all the way down, then shut off engine keeping your foot on the brake pedal, if the pedal comes up slightly pushing against your foot then the booster IS working.

Did you BLEED the brakes??????
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I changed the front pads on my 97 Sebring convertible. Also put on new rotors, and changed the calipers. My car bounces slightly, and if I apply the brakes hard, they become spongy. I have bled them off as...

Spongy means air present in the hydraulic system,I recommend check and recheck all of the brake system areas where air could enter(master cylinder,fittings,calipers,etc.)and bleed the entire system again.
Good luck !

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Spongy brake pedal even after ABS bleed and base brake bleed.

Did you adjust the rear shoes out? If the rear drum brakes are out of adjustment they will give you a lot of pedal travel. If the pads are worn have no fear of that U-CLIP brake spring, just change one shoe at a time. Take the spring off one side, change the shoe, put the spring back on the post and do the same to the other shoe, no problem.
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Use a vacuum pump brake bleeder starting at the furthest point from the master cylinder. They cost abt $35. Be sure to keep master cylinder full... :)
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