Engine will not accelerate smoothly and evenly, it chugs along.

Assuming there's a sensor to the control solenoid, the sensor would've sent a trouble code to the ECM, activating your "check engine" light. When you accelerate, it increases pressure in fuel lines, so if there's restriction (such as dirty fuel filter) in fuel line, then it would accelerate rough with hesitation in throttle response.

It's under the right side rear door unscrew the clamp and use fuel line separators to get the front line off push in and pull out the line on the back there's a clip you push out

I believe you have a fuel pump failing. It is in the tank and fairly simple to change. The hard part is getting the tank low enough to disconnect the lines and wires without breaking them. It goes back in the way it came maybe even easier. be sure to drain fuel from tank before re-installing. Try changing the fuel filter first before you take the fuel tank from the vehicle just to be sure it is the fuel pump. This may save time and knuckles. Good luck and have fun.

How was the fuel in the filter when you removed the filter?If you just replaced the fuel filter that is a good start, But you are a CIS,You basically have a coked up fuel distribution bowl. With the engine off, take out the air intake boot and acess the air flow sensor plate push it down,if it readily comes back up nice and easy then its in good shape, if it slowly comes up and even not at all use carburator cleaner try to clean up the lever plate,so it will have a smooth operation ,this is a fuel metering device,

The fuel filter is probably full of metal too. (fuel starvation) replace it.

try the distubutor cap it may have a hair line crack when the engine get warms up it expands and trow off idle.

Possible fault could be that the empty tank had broough in dirt into the filter or fuel system. Please try to remove the line and check or replace fuel filter.Even it is possible if water is inside the system which will come out only when the tank is empty. Check this out.

1st to do,replace fuel and air filter, spark plugs.

The fuel pump is on top of gas tank inside, you have to lower the tank, unless is mounted on gas tank side, follow fuel lines, thy are two, one main and one return, the fuel filter is on the main under driver

I'm sure you have installed a fuel pressure gauge and monitored the fuel pressure while the problem is occurring?Another diagnostic tool which is easy to do,is while the problem is occurring,unplug one sensor at a time beginning with the Mass Air Flow first,.if it uses one.Many times,not always,depending on the sensor,if the sensor is taken out of the picture as far as what the PCM is seeing,like unplugging the MAF,the PCM will substitute the missing sensor output with a generic value that will allow the engine to at least run,and if unplugging for example the MAF,the engine idle speed returns to normal,you know you're onto the problem.You didn't mention if the engine ran ok other than the idle problem.As far as checking for vacuum leaks,i use something like brake cleaner or WD 40,more of a liquid,and it does sound like a vacuum leak.Plastic intake manifolds do develop nearly invisible cracks that open up more with heat.Revsisit the possibility.And as for the PCM,it is possible,but more likely a mechanical problem.Lastly,remove an O2 sensor or two before the catalytic convertor,run the engine and see if anything changes.Cheap way to verify the catalytic convertor is flowing and not restricting engine airflow,as i have seen bad cats cause misfire codes and strange problems.Good luck.