Ignition Switch spark shorted something.

Not sure about the Honda, but most relays on cars afer200o are usually located on the fuse block. If you have one in your engine bay, it is most likely a plug in relay located in the engine bay fuse box

To check if it is the ignition switch remove the small wire from the starter and place a multimeter on the wire to earth you will have 12v dc when you put the switch in the start position IF this is so remove the starter as it will be either the starter solenoid or a s/ motor fault

fuel filter in engine bay,ignition fuse, distributer - make sure the engine is getting spark,

loose wire or corroded connection at the starter or alternator, if not that it cab be ignition switch too

-5 Speed Transmission

-Clutch/Pressure plate/Flywheel/Hardware

-Clutch cable

-Manual pedal assembly with same options as your car (Cruise control for example)

-Front, side, and rear transmission mount brackets from 5 speed car, and the actual mount for the rear (Regardless of what people say, it is not needed to drop the rear x-member to do this rear mount, but if you don't have a decent set of tools, you may have to do this to get to the rear bolt.)

-Manual axles. I think auto axles will work.

-5 speed throttle cable to match the the 5 speed pedal assembly

-Auto speedo cable will work.

-Connect the 2 larger black wires that go to the shift position switch in the automatic. These wires are for the starter. In the auto car, they are only connected when the car is in nuetral or park. Solder these two wires together and heat shrink. Use a **** connector if you want to just ghetto rig it together.

-You will get a code 19 and a "check engine light". This is for the torque converter lock up solenoid on the PS9 auto ECU (For my D16A6 Motor anyway, the 1.5 may have a different auto ECU). The car will still run and drive fine, but getting the manual ECU for you car, and cutting off the auto wiring from the harness will eliminate this issue.

-You will need to ground the Green/White wire from the shift indicator switch, this indicates that the car is in "park", and will allow you to remove the ignition key. The alternative is to swap to the 5 speed ignition switch, but you may not want to end up having separate ignition, and door keys if your car currently uses one key.

I have a HF 5 Speed ecu and a few other parts to if you need them

Price is hard to tell because of price of parts and places vary to do these swaps. Shops around here will covert a auto to manual for anywhere from 500-800 bucks labor only.

It like you have short circuit the system,it need to be check by a professional car electrician.

I would suggest an ignition module. If it is a rough idle at startup I would check the throttle position sensor. You can check that by starting the car and unplugging the TPS. If the car runs differently then chances are it is working fine.

thats about right.redline is 6500 which is over 120mph

Ignition switch?

You might want to check for any possible vacuum leaks from the back of the intake manifold. A severe enough vacuum leak will cause the engine to spit and sputter. You may also want to check the egr valve stuck in the open position as well. Also caused by possible vacuum issues. Vacuum within the intake will increase with accelaration and if you have a cracked line it could cause the symptoms you are describing.

Good Luck