Nissan b13 stalls more and more frequently but no check engine light turns on

Check the coil for spark and the wires attached to the connector and the fuses also the cap and rotor and spark plug gap a worn cap and rotor or pick up coil will do it check for spark first the look at plugs cap rotor coil etc. Theses came with 4.9/5.0/5.8 motors all are similar duration spark ll ignition systems so check the easy stuff first al are fuel injected try spraying fuel are cleaner into the throttle body if it runs and dies it's a fuel issue here and check the idle air control valve they usually do the same when they go it just stops working

This is something that you cannot afford to throw any more money at. Get a timing light to check to see if there is spark. Use a pressure guage to check fuel pump. Get bug lights to test injectors.

I've been there.... A nightmare!!!

Your prolem sounds as the classical Hot Coil problem with no solution. Next time when engine stalls, check for spark, touch the coil and the ignition module. If they feel hot to the touch (can't hold it), chances are there is too much resistance in the High Tension side of the ignintion circuit.
This means the circuit from the coil to the spark plugs has too much resistance. Since you already changed everything I have to ask a question: Is everything as original specs??

When I had this problem it resulted that the gap between the terminals of the distributor cap (new) and rotor where to big, This created great resistance which heated the coil and quit sending spark.

Perhaps there is something in the High Tension circuit which is out of original specs. Is the gap in spark plugs correct?
Try an old distibutor cap. Do the metal contacts in the spark plug cables touch the metal of the spark plug contact?
Does the metal contact from the cable touch the metal from the coil's contact? Are they dry?

Check things which can create a gap where electriciy has to "jump" to complete its way to the spark plug. These are the ones which cause the hot coil and hot module trouble.

Hi,Miguel Barrios
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Hi,
Check the ignition distributor cap and clean the electric contact points it might be already dirty.

if one has a spark that means your ignition coil is still okay. Remove the whole cap and check the inside part and clean it, use emery board.
Check also the high tension wires( spark plug wires ).
Hope Fixya helps you!

Hi, Ok you have confirmed that it's not a fuel problem. You need to check for spark. Pull the coil wire off of the coil(secondary lead-looks like a spark plug wire) Have some one crank it over and listen for a popping sound. IF yes, spark is at the coil, that means all ignition sensors are working. Next check for spark at ends of wires after cap. IF no replace cap and rotor. IF yes remove a couple spark plugs and check for fouling(wet, fuel etc...) IF yes replace or clean plugs and retest for starting. IF no spark is present at coil you need to scan computer and watch for rpm signal. IF no rpm signal, replace crankshaft sensor with OEM delco part. BIGGEST problem with these engines is Cap and Rotor burn out.

Check the fuel pump,Clean the fuel pump sound like not getting continue fuel to the engine.

I worked on a '93 Quest last year. Couldn't find out why it wouldn't start. It was the distributor shaft not held onto its rotating gear. The roll pin had come out of the gear on the end of the distributor shaft. When the distributor cap was off, the rotor was turning with the shaft while the engine was cranking. So I thought that was okay. But when I put my finger on the rotor and it stopped turning, that is when I found out the problem. It's a stretch, but maybe the techs missed it. Take the cap off, and if you can spin the rotor either way just by hand, the distributor gear has come loose.

Looks like they really covered a lot. I suppose next they will you to replace the ecu. Good luck.

First of all let's explain how the spark gets to the plugs. There is a crankshaft position sensor and a cam sensor. They are what determines when to fire the coils and injectors. The crank sensor is located on the passenger side on top of the bellhousing, the cam sensor is the pickup plate in the distributor. As the engin turns the send refernece pulses to the computer which grounds and ungrounds the ignition coil causing it to discharge and send voltager from the secondary coil wire to the center tower in the distributor cap. The rotor button recieves the voltage and distributes it to the 6 towers (1 for each cylinder) If you say you're getting spark from the rotor that tells me the primary side of the ignition system is working, and the secondary side is working into the distributor cap. I'd check for spark out of the plug wires at the plugs. Pull a wire and insert a #2 phillips screwdriver into it, hol the shaft of the screwdriver aprox 1/8"(no more) from the exaust manifold and observe the spark as someone turns over the engine. You should see a nice blue spark. If theres spark, spray a little gum cutter in the throttle body an crank it, if it fires you have a fuel problem. Install a fuel pressure gauge on the schrader valve on the fuel rail and observe it as you crank it. If theres no fuel pressure maks sure there's fuel in the tank, if so climb underneath and beat on the bottom of the tank with a rubber hammer, the pump may be going bad, sometimes you can jar them and make them run.

Check for spark at a plug first. If none then its either the coil or ignition module. The module is located under the coil.