And now that it is cold outside.sometimes the car wont start it turns over very slow or it just clicks.sometimes it will start but drive to the store,shut it off,then it wont start again.i checked the battery with a volt meter and got 12.3 volts.i unhooked the heavy wire from the alt.while running checked it with my volt meter,and I got 14.7 volts
SOURCE: Subaru Electrical Gremlins
turn head light on and try to start car if they dim way down replace battery or connect a volt meter to bat check voltage while cranking. it must be 12 volts or higher.
SOURCE: My running lights will not turn off unless I unhook the battery.
Subaru Outback Legacy Flashing
Q. I have a 1996 Subaru Outback Legacy AWD manual transmission. the hazards flash when I turn the car off. I tried to reset the system by pushing the little black button under the drivers' side dash but it won't reset the system. I had problems with the brakes so I did not drive it for about two months and when I tried to start the car the battery was dead.
Now the brakes are fixed but the hazards won't quit flashing and the guy who repaired the car said I needed to reset the system by pushing the little black button. And I don't know if I should have it looked at, or change the battery, or if it is something very simple I can fix by my self.
Thank you very much,
Patrick
A. Patrick, you are the third person in the last two days that has come to me with this same exact problem under the same conditions. As of now I don't have any concrete information on this, but I believe the problem to be in the alarm system.
I believe the battery being disconnected or dying does something to the Anti-theft and Alarm System module and having a Subaru dealer reset the system will correct it.
If you do this and it works, please, let me know and I will pass the information on to the others.
Added 11/7/2003
Dear Mr. Ciulla,
I read your Q&A titled "Subaru Outback Legacy Flashing". I recently had the same problem on my 1996 2.5 liter Subaru Legacy Outback and your response is correct but I can give you a little more detail on what worked for me to stop the light flashing (which occurs sometimes if the battery had been dead):
There is a black reset button under the I/P near the anti-theft module.
This also resets the key FOB so as step 2.5 you should also press the "lock" button on the key FOB before releasing the black reset button (door locks will lock/unlock one more time--do this with each key FOB you own). That's all!
The questioner in your Q&A said he tried the reset button; I suspect he either didn't turn the ignition on/off or didn't hold it in for over 20 seconds.
PS... pulling the door lock fuse will stop it temporarily if you can't get the above to work and have to take it to the dealer
Regards,
John
Photo Courtesy John Spieth ©2003
Additional Information provided courtesy of ALLDATA
SOURCE: 95 Subaru Legacy won't start/radiator fan stays on
It's one of three things: air, spark, or fuel.
It's most likely not air. So I'll rule that one out.
That leaves fuel or spark. I'd remove a spark plug wire from the coil and set a screwdriver nearby. It it arcs, then you know you have spark. There's a good chance you may need to replace something in your ignition system.
However, seeing as how quickly it just "died," I might also suggest the fuel pump.
SOURCE: 1998 subaru clicks when starting
The starter solenoid is clicking so your ignition switch is okay. You've changed the starter? Apparently the solenoid is separate from the starter. Check that the wire from the solenoid to the starter is intact and make sure the ends are nice and shiny. Then it's probably the solenoid itself. Some cars have a fused wire, notably older Fords where the wire itself is a fuse. Your "Snubaru" dealer can tell you.
SOURCE: elctrical problem.I have a rebuilt alternator
When the alternator is installed on the car can you turn it by hand even though the belt is installed? Don't be shy when it comes to trying to turn it. If you can the belt is too loose, it needs to be tight enough so you can't turn it by hand. If the adjustment is all used up then you need to replace the belt because it has stretched. This sounds like the most obvious culprit considering that it tests good on the bench and your symptoms are identical to a loose belt. Hope this helps.
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Hi Timothy, so your alt is fine but your battery is not, you need a new one however this is not the actual problem really. your switch in your door is bad and needs to be replaced. the switch in the door is telling your car that the door is open and is slowly draining your battery, which isn't designed to be full drained and recharged over and over again that is what killed your battery and will kill the replacement if the switch isn't replaced.
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