Idle speed control

why do you have ? on facts? odd that.
my guess replaced ECT ! not ?
my guess, doing so , now engine is full of air, and not fails.
as all do.
front RAD cooling FANS, right? (not heater blower )
it don't work like you think, ? huh?
what does" not in Rad "mean? with ? marks?

means you trust the silly side tank and not look in rad? fail you will.
when doing cooling service, learn read a book first.
read how to fill and burp your engine, Just like feeding a baby it is.
is engine overheating?
did it , has it, or ? , what started this saga, tell a full story?
and WIN !
Facts: on this system.
the fans are controlled by the computer brain, under a complex set rules now. it's not some mindless switch like days of old.
sorry!
ill now answer for USA 03, how ours work,
ONLY!
ours has one fan., (not fans)
ours has a 3 speed fan (at rad back side.)
and has rules to run all 3 speeds, via 3 relays
the PCM/ECU decides this, based on if A/C is on or off.
and a complex set of rules (uses the ECT for this magic)
Fact 2: ECT will not work with air pockets !!!!
The PCM even turns on and turn off are not same temp!!!
Rules:
1: Rad must be filled of AF/ 50% antifreeze cold, to the top neck of RAD filler.
2: rad and engine burped of all air pockets, ask it's same on all cars.
3: the ECT must work, right, if air pockets there, it CANT work.
4: park car, idle until the minimum engine time is reached parked.
about 180F, but all cars overheat if parked, idling and fan stays dead.
fan is off , and at some point, the fan goes to low speed.

this varies by engine option, but is around 225F. (stage1)
THE FSM covers these checks, and rules, and temps. for all 3 stages of fan speed.
scan the pcm yet>?
got P0128 DTC? or others, for temperatures wrong,
not scanning is a big mistake on all modern cars.
big time!
yes, rad must be full parked cold, yes, yes, yes...
side expansion tanks do fail. for many reasons. ask.

a 2.0L engine. only, here. 7.4quarts cooling cap.
here is ours. usa fan. a 4 wire fan it is....
the ecu controls it using SOFTWARE, (firm-ware in truth)
do not drive car until all air is burped out of engine and rad.
DO NOT!
in fact run it idling to hot. 180f. ( too hot to touch long)
, kill engine with key.
let cool, to luke warm, or cold.
check rad level. (sure its low)
top it off, cap it,
repeat 3 times, before driving or if it holds levels.

Usually it's a leaky thermostat allowing to much coolant to pass through it when it's closed.To check this, clamp off top rad hose completely(acting like a closed thermostat) If you have hot air from the heater now ,you do need a replacement thermostat.

Engine stalling issue at low speeds

This problem is commonly caused by a dirty automatic idle speed control valve and throttle valve. Buy a can of throttle valve cleaner from NAPA or Carquest (made by CRC chemicals) and spray it into the air intake while the engine is running, use up about 1/2 the can, engine will try to stall hold the speed up, shut it down and let it soak for 30 minutes, restart and blow out the remaining fluid, shut it down and disconnect the negative battery cable for 5 Min's to reset the base idle control

The normal idle speed is below 1,000 rpm...between 800 to 900 rpm. I suspect that the idle-air control motor has seized and can no longer automatically adjust the engine's idle speed. This part is also responsible for slightly increasing idle speed when the airconditioning is switched on to compensate for the added engine load. Some cars even have a "step-up" solenoid to increase idle.

When replacing the idle-air control motor, remember to clean the port that IAC motor goes into; there will be some carbon build-up that may prevent the part's cone-shaped valve from seating properly. A can of intake valve spray helped along with some Q-tips works well.



Hope this helped.

Have a great day !!!

When the aircon is switch on it puts a substantial load to the engine: you need to get your car tuned to take into account the load from the aircon. Most car have a mechanism that increases the idle speed when the aircon is active: if you are unable to get your car tuned yet, try making the engine idle speed slighty faster while you have the aircon turn-on (the ajustment screw should be close to the accelator cable connection at your engine end). Don't make the idle speed too high and check by turning the aircon off and on to assess the best compromise idle speed to stop your car from almost stalling (e.g. jerking).

Good luck!

I'd certainly check that the fan is working. If it overheats while traveling at a reasonable speed, it could be that the radiator needs cleaning out. The aircon will always increase engine temp but, while parked or driving slowly,the fan should counteract the coolant temperature rise.

Does the electric fan come on and stay on when it's hot? Find what's clicking it could be the relay for either a/c or fan. (though they usually are on the passenger side in the power distribution center near the battery. Your system works pretty much like this: the temperature sender on the engine sends info to the computer which sends a message to the relay to turn the fan on. The a/c bypasses this to some extent and turns the fan on every time the compressor is running.
Your radiator must be really clean or it would be blowing coolant all over the place a bit over 210, unless the gauge is reading incorrectly.

Fuel Fail 47 Idle speed control valve - coil 2: Open or short circuit.

This code 47 is signaling a malfunction that has occurred within the Idle speed control device. the code is saying that the circuit is inoperable at this time and you will need to service it or replace the entire device.

This is basically A computer-controlled air bypass valve located in the throttle body. It helps control idle speeds by allowing air to bypass the throttle plates as to increase the idle speed.



please rate and have agreat weekend:)

There may dirt or rust in idle air passes
Service & adjust the Idle speed control valve & throttle position sensor.

dude its normal for first start or cold start that the idle is ok but it must high than normal... its normal because the engine is warming up it self... when it gets warm, the idle speed will return normal idle... your engine is 1200cc, it has not much HP for a great load... and i know its a carburatored engine and its an old engine, your head lyt and a/c fan and aux fan and all the electrical system on your car, uses the HP of you engine and its a lot of load to the alternator driven by the engine to generate an electricity they need and thats why the engine rpm speed lowering down to dead and its shake. thats why when you use your lyts or all electrical, you engine is weakening... the best remede is adjusting you idle speed... its located behind the carburator.. its a small black knob.. just make a twist each eighter way and you'll find out if your idle rpm speed ts incresing or decresing.. just increase it and try opening your lyts and other electrical, if its still shaking then adjust it a little more