A/C cuts out, restarts at times by stopping engine and restarting

Well of course not. When you shut the car down, all water circulation stops so engine heat goes way up. This means the radiator gets hot too, and therefore so does the AC condensor. It takes time for all these things to cool back down when you start it back up.

check for a faulty climate control module.

Fold down the glove box to observe the movement of the blend door when you switch between A/C & heat.

LET YOU TECHNICIAN MEASURE THE GAP ON COMPRESSOR CLUTCH.IS COMMON IF THE GAP IS TO BIG COMPRESSOR ENGAGE LATE.AFTER 2-3min.
LOCATE THE SENSOR FOR CABIN TEMPERATURE AND MAKE SURE IS NOT DUSTY . LET THE DEALER PLUG THE SCANNER AND READ THE LIVE DATA BEFORE START THE CAR.BAD OR DISCONNECTED SENSOR WILL READ -40*F. SELECT LIVE DATA AND WILL SEE THE SIGNAL FRO THE BODY CONTROL MODULE TO A/C RELAY(ON / OFF)
ENGINE DATA IS IMPORTANT TO. A/C CUT OFF ON OVERLOAD FROM ENGINE,POWER STEERING,ETC
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Engine stall or RPM fluctuates at idle.

This problem is commonly caused by a dirty automatic idle speed control valve and throttle valve. Buy a can of throttle valve cleaner (do not use carburetor spray cleaner!) from NAPA or Carquest (made by CRC chemicals) and spray it into the air intake while the engine is running, use up about 1/2 the can, engine will try to stall hold the speed up, shut it down and let it soak for 30 minutes, restart and blow out the remaining fluid, shut it down and disconnect the negative battery cable for 5 Min's to reset the base idle control

Will it stay running in neutral if yes sounds like bad converter if it stops then I would clean the Throttle body with tb cleaner and tooth brush if no air is getting through the engine will not idle

From what you say I would check the MAF and for any vacuum leak. Here is my reasoning. When cold the ECU sets long injection times to warm up and if the vacuum is low your fuel pressure relief valve will also be at higher pressure (reduced vacuum will not relieve the fuel pressure valve as it would normally). The result is the the extra fuel injected is balanced by the extra air due to the leak and the car starts easily. However when the engine is hot the ECU reduces injection times and the fuel mix is leaner. If the MAF is unable to read the mass of air flowing through it correctly it may set the injection to being too lean to run at idle and at restart. If there is a vacuum leak the additional air causes the engine to cut out and will like the MAF makes it difficult to restart. A quick way to check the diagnosis is, when the car next cuts out when hot, disconnect the coolant sensor before starting. This will fool the ECU into thinking the engine is cold and reset longer injection times and the car should restart that little bit easier. Reconnect the coolant sensor once the engine is running. Now switch off and try to restart with the MAF disconnected. the engine should restart if the MAF is at fault. Check that the MAF is clean and that its electrical connection is good. THe MAF can be cleaned by spraying it liberally internally with electrical spray cleaner and allowing to air dry before reassembling. Check the vacuum lines and junctions are secure. So what I have described here are two sides to the same coin. If the MAF 'sees' less air than there actually is the ECU will reduce the amount of fuel injected to 'compensate' and in the process makes the error of running the engine too lean. If there is a vacuum leak too much air actually enters the engine for the correct setting of the injectors and again the engine runs too lean. I hope this helps.

jtg

the blend motor on the vehicle is probably bad

Check the resistor pack/board on the cabin fan