2000 Ford Expedition Logo

Won't crank over

Replaced battery, solenoid,neutral safety sw.,starter (reman), and new starter,positive cable,ignition sw.,checked signal wire on upper solenoid and starter solenoid have 12volts,fuseable link ok,good ground, solenoid on starter squeals will engage starter but will not spin,took it out jumped the starter manually works like it's supposed too, any clues ? thank you

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Oldsmobile 88 will still not engage after putting in new starter.Even after checking the anti theft system. what can I check for next?

The ignition switch itself. You need to do some trouble shooting. On the starter solenoid you have the large positive battery cable and the smaller signal wire. You need to use a test light and have someone crank on the car while you probe the small wire for voltage with the switch in the crank position. Also make sure the neutral safety switch is operating. Use a test light to make sure power is going in and coming out.
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We put the new starter on today, and the car still won't start. We are thinking it's the starter relay. What else can be wrong with the car? can you please help us we depend on that car. Thank you

There is no starter relay shown in a wiring diagram. The only thing between the ignition switch and the starter solenoid is the park/neutral switch (or the clutch pedal position switch on manuals).

Do the warning lights and gauges come on with key on? That would verify power is into the switch and being sent out. The small purple wire on the starter solenoid should have power on it when the key is held in start position. If it does, recheck your starter and battery connections. When the purple wire energizes the solenoid, the starter motor should crank the engine.
If no power on the purple wire in start, check the neutral safety switch or the clutch switch if a manual. The start wire out of the ignition switch is a yellow wire, and the wire from either safety switch to the starter solenoid is a purple wire.
(The power to the ignition switch is from the 50 amp Ignition fuse in the under hood fuse block.) See? The positive battery cable is connected to the starter, but not to the starter motor. When the key is in start, the hot purple wire energizes the solenoid and the battery cable is connected to the starter motor.
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99 mustang won't start it only do 1 click. If it

Battery good, cables good, all connections clean and tight, no corrosion on battery terminals?
Try to determine if click is from solenoid on the starter or starter relay. Turn the headlights on and watch them while someone turns the key to start. If they get dim, probably the starter-have it tested-even new ones are sometimes bad. If lights don't dim, you will need to check the start circuit. Check for power on the small wire to starter solenoid when key is held in start. If no power there, work back towards the ignition switch. Check the neutral safety switch-should have power in and power out when key held in crank. The ignition switch will have a start wire out of the switch going to the neutral safety switch. It should have power with key in start, the only time the start wire will have power.
Post back with what you find-good luck.
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No crank

Something wrong in the start circuit. The fact that dash lights come on indicates the ignition switch seems ok.- power is getting to it and exiting it.

The next place to check is the starter: before taking it off and have tested, do this quick test: when the car won't crank over, pull off the small wire on the starter solenoid-mounted on the starter-and see if that wire has power when the key is held in cranking position. You will need a helper to hold key in start, and an inexpensive testlight or volt meter to see if the wire has power.
This wire is the signal wire from the ignition switch to activate the solenoid and allow battery power to turn the starter motor on.
If the wire has power and still no crank, then the starter or solenoid is the problem, assuming battery and cables are good and connected tight. Pull the starter off and test it. If starter is good, probably the solenoid.
If the wire has no power when key is held in crank, the problem is in the circuit from the ignition switch to the solenoid-includes the neutral safety switch, maybe a starter relay, too. One would begin testing by checking for power on the start wire exiting the switch with key in cranking pos. If good there, test the neutral safety switcfh. If you have manual transm, the switch would be on the clutch pedal. If automatic, have a shop locate and test that.
Good luck- often, not always, it is the starter or solenoid. But do that check for power at solenoid , first.
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Will not turn over

See if you have power at the solenoid wire when key is held in crank position. If you do, then battery connections are not tight, or you maybe got a defective starter or solenoid. If no power when key is held in cranking position, trace the start circuit backward from the starter solenoid to the ignition switch-starter relay and the neutral safety switch are in that path. Check for power in the start wire leaving the ignition switch, by backprobing with a voltmeter or testlight the ignition switch harness connector.
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Won't start

So it's a no crank condition? Do dash lights, gauges, and everything else work when the car won't crank over? If so, buy a cheap $5.00 testlight, and when the car won't crank, pull the small black wire off the starter solenoid. While someone holds the key in start (cranking) position and clutch pedal depressed, see if the black wire has power as it should. (Ground the testlight and just touch the wire's end terminal. If powered, the testlight will light up.) If power there, then the starter solenoid is failing. Toyota starters are very good units, but the solenoid's internal contacts get old and pitted.
If no power at the black wire, then the start circuit from ignition switch to clutch safety switch (on the clutch pedal) to starter relay to starter solenoid will have to be diagnosed. To double-check: take a single battery jumper cable and put it on the positive battery post connection. Put the other end of the jumper cable on the solenoid terminal where black wire was removed. Key can be off. Make sure car is in neutral, brake set. If starter now operates, solenoid is O.K., and it is a problem in the start circuit, -ignition switch, neutral start switch, or in the wiring.
Now find a grounding place for testlight under the dash. When car won't crank, check for power coming out of ignition switch on the black wire with white stripe. This is the start wire for the starter solenoid. Key must be in crank position. Wire shoud be powered-ignition switch is working. If no power, switch is failing. You can do the same for the clutch start switch-it's a simple switch, that when clutch is depressed switch is closed and passes power on from ignition switch to the starter relay (thus allowing power to the starter solenoid). Black wire, red stripe-this is wire from clutch switch to starter relay. When key is in crank, clutch depressed, this wire should be hot.
With me so far? Still haven't found a problem, or any loose connections? Next and last is the starter relay. It is located under dash, close to gas pedal, but under the center console, just forward and left of gear shifter. It can be tested and the wiring diagnosed there, but relays are cheap, so just swap in another and see if that helps.
If you have tried everything, and still no help, you could try a new wire from the relay to the starter solenoid. This is that black wire we started with. Older toyotas sometimes have a problem with degraded wiring not passing enough current to operate the starter
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2answers

I just have a new starter but the car wont crank

it has a good chance to being the starter relay but it also may be a break in the power line to the starter or the solenoid on the side of the starter if you replaced the starter only or not or a dead battery or check your fuses to you ignition and your relays aswell there are many possibilities that could come in to play just do a elimination start from the starter itself and check everything that in between til you get ot the battery and if witch should be depending on what kind of vehicle you have starter solenoid ground wire and positive wire going to starter relay aswell as other wires tying in to go to the positioning ignition switch that could be the problem to, it's commonly mounted down but your foot pedals on the top of the steering column and check your fuses hopefully you could try these or use any of this imformation to help you with your problem well good luck..
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1answer

Wont start with ignition when key is turned but is not the ignition or starter silonoud ?

There is a starter solenoid on the starter and another one on the firewall or inner fender.Follow the positive cable from the battery to the solenoid.Remove any covers that may be hiding it.Now,with the car in park or neutral and the park break set on you should be able to get it to crank by crossing the two large copper posts with a screw driver.If it cranks over now then you need to check for power to the small post with the black an red wire going to it.If you have power with the key in the start position then you need to replace that solenoid.If the is no power in that wire then you could either need a neutral safety switch or an ignition switch.If nothing happened when you crossed the posts on the solenoid then you either need a starter,the cables need to be cleaned or replaced,the nut on the starter solenoid could have loosened off,the small wire on the starter solenoid may have a bad connection or your battery does not have enough amperage in it to turn over the engine.Hope this helps.
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The car won"t crank, 1992 Volkswagon Passat

If the switch (neutral safety switch) is broken, it will not crank regardless whether you jump the battery or a new battery is installed. I don't have specific manual for your year that's why my advice is as in general. With a remote starter tool, bypassing the solenoid wire with remote starter which is connected to the positive terminal of the battery of it's other end. Once positive current flows from the battery, through the remote switch, flowing towards the solenoid, the starter should engage indicating a bad wiring harness connection from ignition switch. If it doesn't crank at all you may have a bad starter assembly and needs replacing. If your starter is clicking using it's own battery power, your battery is low of charge or your charging system is malfunctioning.

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2answers

It won't turn over but the lights are working tho

Just because the lights work does not rule out the battery. Take the battery cables off, remove the battery and have it load tested. If ok, since the cables are off look at the ends of the cables and clean them if necessary, Reinstall the battery and try to start. If it cranks over your battery or connections to it was the problem. If it does not start you will need to check voltage to the starter. I would recommend using a volt meter but a 12v test light may also be used. Check the voltage to the large cable connected to the starter solenoid, make sure you have battery voltage (12volts). Next hook your meter to the smaller wire on your starter solenoid, this is the crank signal wire. With someone holding the key in start position check for voltage to the wire. Should have 12volts.If you have 12v on this wire then your starter is getting proper voltage and needs replacing. If no voltage is present the you will need th check that feed circuit. Could be a neutral safty switch or clutch switch(if you have one). Even the ignition switch could be bad. If no voltage is present on your solenoid signal wire get a wiring diagram and check voltage from switch to starter. Good luck!
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