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Replace the coil. Check the operation of the distributor and condenser in the distributor. that is if you don't have an electronic distributor.. Replace the module in the distributor if you have.
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Checking for diagnostic trouble codes would be a good first step before assuming anything . Could have a vacuum leak , a Idle air contorl valve problem ,Mass air flow sensor problem, tps -throttle position sensors . A dirty throttle plate . Suggest you check out videos on youtube on rough running ,stalling problems !
Disconnecting the battery could reset codes and/or sensor readings in the engine computer.
Is the check engine light on, and have you checked the computer for trouble codes ? Is fuel pressure normal ?
If it was running good before, you probably lost spark or gas to the engine. If you spray a little starting fluid into the throttle intake and the engine starts briefly from that, then you know it was a fueling problem. Check the fuel pump and fuel filter, or do a fuel pressure test. If no fuel pressure at the engine's fuel rail, you would need to check the fuel pump circuit before condemning the fuel pump.
If spraying starting fluid doesn't do anything, then it may be a spark (ignition) problem. Check for spark from a spark plug wire with the engine cranking. If no spark, suspect a bad Ignition Control Module, or the crank or cam position sensors, possibly a bad ignition coil, or as a last resort a bad PCM, but such is rarely the problem.
try first fuel pressure ck then go to the crank sensor how many km,s does it have ,could have bad fuel change the filter then do the test ther is crank fuse too to ck also ck the coil packs for spark get back too me if ya wood thks again for your time The Farmer
all stalls end in CEL check engine light on. that is normal
but CEL glow. when engine running , means you had a failure, and it stored DTC error codes, so scan it.
lots of causes. huge list.
get a tune up , tops list.
SCAN it to be sure all sensors work. running.
all fuses in car good.
by stalls , i assume the engine stalls and engine RPM is 0 RPM.
the stall cause the whole dash to light up, all the warning lamps come
on (self test) oil , charge , CEL. come on.
what is important is the stall and the cause.
i will tell you the 3 ways.
lost electrical power to engine EFI system (seems not)
bad engine, (lost compression hot)?
bad spark , spark died.?
bad fueling, lost all fueling (starves and stalls or floods and misfires horribly and stalls (black spark plug tips are big time clue)
if non eof the rings a bell.?
get the car serviced.
this car is newer nicer car, you (we) can scan and drive and log data.
allowing faster easy diagnosis.
stalls. but does is restart, stalls hot and cold engine?
all the time? or just some times, what?
ever do a 60k mile tuneup this decade?
does fast right foot save the stall???????? key question !
lost 12vdc power to EFI.
if random stalls its not lost compression
bad spark (tuneup time?) lost spark , kills all gas engines.
bad fueling. too much or too little.
if all above is good, then the ISC is stuck closed. lean it.
which engine,? the have up to 3 choices.
rih?
what are the full symptoms,
did you do the full listed 60k mile tune up on car?
sparkplugs,wire, cap rotor/filters? no engine runs right with bad spark
unless it's a diesel.
starts good
runs good or bad hot or cold engine
idle at 800 RPM hot?
stalls> when hot and cold engine
lost of power
bogging
misfire,
learchs>
only stalls , but runs perfect even up hills, at wide open throttle.
fresh gas, or 1 year old?fuel.
can your fast right foot , save the stall, and easily?
ok stalls 101.
1; lost 12vdc to EFI system.
2: lost engine compression.
3: lost spark.
4: lost fueling or floods
there is a simple test for each.
do you want more guesses, or how to do tests.
can do both, but my guessing fails 99 /100 times.
tune it up
do the right foot test. those are always first. on stalls.
always.
what engine, 2L I-4 or 2.5L V6? post engine, for best answers
or Post VIN, or open hood (USA) look up see EPA vacuum sticker. that tells you the engine type.
ever do the 60,000 mile tune ups, 120k, 180k,etc?
1: after the tune up.
Ill assume it cranks robustly but does not start hot.
2: does using the op guide recommended WOT method start car
when dead? ( press right foot to floor, crank , bingo it starts)
If true that means it was flooded. post back if true.
3: if it dont start WOT (wide open throttle)
that means, its lost spark or lost fueling.
so check for spark using a new , gapped proper test spark plug.
got spark? no , post bad, Ive no spark hot.
4: gots spark but will not start. so use test fuel.
starts now>
A: for only 3 seconds, it runs but then stops. each attempt.
yes, then you have fuel pump issues, (no didnt say bad pump!!!)
no, engine issues. hot motor , has lost compression?
yes> post compression on all cylinders warm to hot. WOT.
or watch scotty do it. (oldest story on cars, ever, no start , 100 years)
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