Also flushed the whole system twice. at one point had warm air then drove it 75 miles to yarmouth,me and drove back froze my tail off. its winter up here .
No kidding. It's minus 26 right now in Montana where I am.
What actuator was that? The vacuum controlled doors are probably the problem. If both heater hoses are hot, coolant is circulating, and it must be a door in the heater case assembly not opening.
In this frigid weather, I would buy a hand vacuum pump and try all the little vacuum canisters around the case (under the dash) and see if you could find the door that gives heat out the vents, defroster, anywhere you can get some heat in the car. Get some heat, and diagnose fully when it warms up. A single vacuum line from the engine goes through the firewall into a podlike fixture, mounted probably below and to the right of the heater/ac control head. Probably electrically controlled, the pod delivers vacuum signals through several hoses to little canisters that operate the heater doors.
SOURCE: 1994 2.3 lt grand am. i have replaced the water
change the upper hose and if thats no good change your radiater it maybe no good with this car it happens alot
SOURCE: 1999 Grand am GT keeps trying to overheat the
I had the same issue when I changed the water pump when I first filled the anti freeze up. I got air trapped in the hoses. Close to one of the water pump one of the hoses has a small nut you can unscrew and it will let some of the trapped air out just unscrew it let the air out until it starts to dripping coolant. I did this started it up drove about a mile the air bubble worked the rest of the way out and it worked perfect after that
SOURCE: car overheating, blows cold air out vents, changed
A couple of things to check because as you describe your symptoms you actually have 2 problems
1. No heat from vents.
Sounds like the heater water flow valve cable is kinked disconnected or the valve itself is stuck You will need to follow your heater core water supply lines to find the valve usually to the right of the center console in the ducting area / large plastic housing for heater and AC internal coils. If the valve works then there is a possibility that the heater core water supply lines have been bypassed on the engine side of the firewall with a coupling due to a leaking heater core. And l;astly the heater core could just be clogged. (quite rare!!)
As for the overheating engine after all of the work you have done.. Perform this simple test.
1. remove radiator cap
2. have someone else start the car
3. watch for water coming out of the open radiator cap area DURING start...
4. have person in the car rev engine gently 2 or 3 times. No need to exceed 2000 RPM. If water rapidly flows out of the radiator during engine revs.. you have some major engine issues.
If it passes all of these checks then the only thing left is improper hose connections on the engine side of the firewall and or a hydraulic water lock in the block that should clear itself by starting and stopping the engine many times with the radiator cap off.
There is a mix damper inside your duct that controls the heat over heater core and ac evaporator that to your floor and one to your defrost. it is probable an electric actuator, that is not functioning properly. If yu can locate it and manually move it, you might have to remove the actuator motor first, you should be able to figure out your problem, I hope this helps! merry Christmas!
replace the heater control valve
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sounds to me like your temp selector in the dash is the problem. Maybe the cable or vacuum hose has slipped off. Maybe a clogged heater core?
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