Car is hesitating, bought it a week ago and its been fine put a new water pump plus timing belt and 2 days later i get in my car to go to work and it is hesitating it ran perfect the day before when i parked it and now all of a sudden a new issue has risen? im to the point of taking the loss of the 4gs i put down on it and giving it back
SOURCE: water pump 04 jetta 1.8t
hey man
im gettimg mine done now on an 04 jetta wagen
this site has been a great source of info.
heres a link to a page that has some good pics of the process for a 2.0 L engine, search the page for water pump
maybe you can find some info or something similar for the 1.8t
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2271429
might pay register with the website to access all the info, its all free
good luck
SOURCE: 91 vw jetta 1.6l diesel belts
These engines are identified as an interference engine and on no account must the crank shaft and cam shaft be moved with the timing belt removed. You no not need to remove the water pump. You need to remove the water pump pulley only (not the water pump). I trust this helps.
Regards
Ray
SOURCE: i drive a vw jetta
Guys, what you are experiencing is the car built warning system. When your engine light blinks it indicates a Major Problem has occurred or is occurring in the engine. When this occurs the cars goes into a "safe," mode which means all power is cut by at least half in an effort to save the car from more major damage. You can take your VW to any large chain autoparts store (autozone, advance, etc) a lot of them are offering a free engine diagnosis. Do this if possible to see where the problems maybe coming from and ways to fix them.
SOURCE: random misfire p0300, cylinder 3 and 4 misfire p0303,p0304
change spark plug wires and check corrosion in the distributor coil
SOURCE: TIming Belt 2000 VW Jetta GLS 1.8T
lrb2199: What this shop has suggested in terms of replacement is pretty much the norm.
1st, if the timing belt lets go or if it jumps time you are going to be hocking the kids to pay for the repairs.
You are looking at a Diesel engine which gets a little on the toasty side to begin with. The motor oil sometimes, depending on the selection may not be too kind on the oil seals.
When you are replacing the timing belt, there is not much more effort involved to remove the front crank and cam seals and replace them with new ones because you are right there! It's a matter of sliding a gear off or unbolting a gear to gain access to a seal.
As for the Water pump, Water pumps don't last for ever and will start to seep through what is referred to as the "WEEP" hole.
If the seal fails, antifreeze will leak onto the timing belt. Antifreeze is a very slippery substance and can potentially cause the engine to jump time. So, you have a water pump that is 9 years old and HOW MANY MILES ON IT? Personally, I would suggest putting another one on. Thermostats also have a limited service life. The part is not that expensive and with the repairs being what they are, often shops throw the labor in on replacing some parts such as thermostats if they are not a big deal. Main drive belts, again, it is a wear item, it could be well worn, possibly may have another 5,000 miles on it, but you have the opportunity to have a new one installed for just the cost of the part rather than pay labor 6 months down the road. The valve cover has to be removed to access the timing belt on some engines because of the way they are configured. Again, the part may not be that expensive, and the opportunity is there to do it while the timing belt is being replaced.
OR, the costs are nominal. Valve cover gaskets on the turbo diesel VW's do start to leak, so take advantage of the opportunity.
I can understand exactly where you are coming from because it is frightening sometimes to hear people tell their stories about what they had to pay for repair on their cars.
Brake shops as an example (NOT ALL OF THEM) seem to be notorious for selling expensive work which may not really need to be done. Example: I have been in business for 28 going on 29 years. I do not sell calipers, rotors, brake master cylinders and other costly items on the majority of the brake work which comes through my shop. WHY? Because they do not need those parts!
I had a customer who learned the hard way. We had given him a quote for brakes. In this case he did need rotors on his Mercedes.
WE use "ATE" rotors and "TEXTAR" pads which are original equipment parts. They cost a little bit more, but I don't have comebacks (complaints). The husband had to leave town and the wife thought we were too high so she called one of the national chains brake shops. They suckered her in at a price over a hundred dollars lower than mine. When she left their establishment her repair bill was a little over a thousand dollars more than my quote.
They sold her calipers, rotors, brake master, system flush, and a hot wax enema! I don't see how they can get away with things like that? I know for a FACT what that car needed because the car has been in here for regular service for over four years. His wife just thought she could save some money! I guess she did HUH?
Anyway, it sounds like your guy is on the up and up.
Got any more questions? I'll be happy to answer them.
Good Luck
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