Jumps up and down at rear when braking

You need to install a brand new rear drum brake spring kit. Most likely. You have a broken brake shoe return spring it sounds like. That is if it is drum brakes.

takes parts , labor and skills. and takes and FSM if smart.

read it.

if the whole rear axle , member and all parts swapped.

body on jack stands,

you unbolt it, (look at it, see those connective parts, bingo)

then bolt it back in

and bleed brakes (yes put in new brakes too)

and drain and fill the new axle, with GL4 lube.(look up spec)



all the itty bitty steps are in the FSM, why not look.



i log in , and see replace page i paste it , below, you can log in too.

1. Raise the vehicle and support it at the frame.
   
   
   
   
   CAUTION
   
   
   
   
   The hoist must remain under the rear axle housing.
   
   
   
   
   



2. Remove the rear wheels and brake calipers or drums.



3. Disconnect the sensor connector (4X2 ABS or RWAL) (14) or sensor connector (4X4 ABS).
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   Exploded view of rear axle assembly
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   



4. Remove the shock absorber nuts and washers.



5. Remove the shock absorbers from the anchor plates.



6. Remove the bolts from the pinion flange.
   
   
   
   
   
   • Mark the driveshaft and the pinion flange.
   
   
   
   • Support the driveshaft out of the way.
   
   
   
   



7. Disconnect the brake lines at the axle housing.



8. Disconnect the brake lines at the backing plates.



9. Remove the nuts and washer.



10. Remove the U-bolts and anchor plates.



11. Disconnect the harness connector from speed sensor.



12. Move the axle from above the springs.



13. Lower the axle from the vehicle using the hoist.

Long shoe in the back,ilIllustration is at the bottom of the page for some reason,scroll down!
Click on a part in the image to check price & availability at your local store.PRINT DIAGRAMVIEW SOLUTIONS TO COMMON PROBLEMS

Brake ShoesBrake DrumWheel CylinderBrake Lines and HosesBrake HardwareBearings & SealsThe Parking BrakeFlushing the System
Select a part to view solution for common problems associated with the item.Operation: Brake shoes provide the friction material that when forced against the friction surface of the drum stops the vehicle. Advice: Check the old brake shoes for uneven wear. Uneven wear from one side of the shoe to the other is an indication of loose or worn brake hardware. Uneven wear from the top of the shoe to the bottom is indication that the shoe is not contacting the drum correctly, usually due to a drum that is beyond wear specifications. Recommendations: Brake hardwareOperation: The brake drum provides the rotating friction surface for the brake shoes to interact with in stopping the vehicle. Advice: Check the friction surface for uneven wear, grooves or small stress cracks caused by excess heat. Uneven wear is an indication of lose or worn brake hardware. Grooves in the friction surface are an indication of brake shoes that have worn down to the metal rivets or brake shoe framework, or of debris lodged between the brake shoe and drum, possibly broken brake hardware. As long as the damage is not too severe, uneven wear can be corrected by resurfacing the drum. Check to make sure that the drum is within specifications before and after the resurfacing. A drum with heat stress cracks should be replaced. Recommendations: Resurface or replace the brake drums.Operation: The wheel cylinder converts the hydraulic pressure sent from the master cylinder into the mechanical force that pushes the brake shoes into contact with the brake drum to stop the vehicle. Advice: Check for moisture anywhere around the wheel cylinder. Moisture is an indication of a leaking wheel cylinder. A leaking wheel cylinder should be either rebuilt or replaced. If a wheel cylinder is allowed to leak brake fluid onto the new shoes, it will ruin the new shoes causing the brakes to grab and emit a growling or rumbling noise when applied. Recommendations: Rebuild or replace leaking wheel cylinders.Operation: The brake lines act as a conduit for the brake fluid, supplying each wheel with the hydraulic action necessary for brake operation. The system is made up predominantly with metal brake lines. Flexible hoses are used at the wheels to accomadate the movement of suspension and steering. Advice: Check metal brake lines for signs of corrosion, physical damage or leakage. Check flexible brake hoses for splits, cracking or signs of leakage. The brake lines are connected to the various brake components with hollow fittings called flare nuts or line fittings. Because flare nuts are hollow they are susceptible to damage if a normal open ended wrench is used to remove them. Flare nut wrenches, sometimes called line wrenches are special open ended wrenches designed to slide over the brake line and still provide maximum grip on all sides of the fitting. Apply a generous spray of penetrating oil to the threads of the fittings and allow it to soak in before loosening the fittings. Recommendations: Flare Nut Wrench set Penetrating sprayOperation: Brake hardware is a term used for all of the springs, clips, guide pins and other misc. pieces that hold the brake pads and calipers in place and guide their movement during brake application. Advice: Check for corroded, bent, worn out or broken springs, guide pins or clips. Damaged or worn out brake hardware can cause uneven wear on the new brake pads. To ensure the best results from your brake job, the brake hardware should be replaced with the new brake pads. Recommendations: Replace Brake hardwareOperation: The wheel bearings support the weight of the vehicle and allow the wheels to spin freely. Advice: All wheels will have some sort of bearing and a seal to hold in lubricant and keep out dirt. Some bearings are sealed in a hub assembly or pressed into an axle housing and can only be serviced by replacing them. Others such as tapered roller bearings can be cleaned inspected and repacked with grease. Use a can of spray brake cleaner to remove the old grease. Check the integrity of the cage holding the rollers in place. A loose wobbly cage is an indication of wear. Check the rollers for discoloration. Discoloration is an indication that the bearing has been subjected to excess heat and should be replaced. Always install a new race when replacing a bearing. Always install a new seal whenever servicing or replacing a bearing. Recommendations: Spray Brake cleaner Wheel bearing grease Wheel sealOperation: The parking brake on a drum brake system has a series of cables that when actuated from the driver's compartment moves the parking brake levers on both rear wheels, forcing the rear brake shoes against the friction surface of the drums to hold the vehicle in place. Advice: With the parking brake disengaged and the drum removed, check to ensure that the brake shoes are fully seated at the top and bottom anchors. If not the parking brake cable may be sticking internally and holding the brake shoes partially applied. A sticking parking brake cable should be replaced. Never adjust the parking brake cable until after normal brake shoe adjustment has been made. After normal brake shoe adjustment if the parking brake still does not hold the vehicle stationary, then the parking brake cable can be adjusted.Operation: Flushing the brake fluid removes old or contaminated brake fluid from the system replacing it with fresh brake fluid. Advice: Brake fluid is a hygroscopic fluid, which means that it is in its nature to absorb moisture from the air. Over time the amount of moisture accumulated will decrease the efficiency of the fluid to act hydraulically. Moisture in the brake fluid can also cause corrosion in the system. Brake fluid should be flushed every two years. Recommendations: Brake fluid

Banging noise can be caused by broken hand brake shoes inside rear brake drums or rear disk brakes.It gets stuck inside. I lived and learned this on Jeep ZJ.

yes you have air in the system.start bleeding at the master cylinder to get all the air out there and work you way down to wheels.the brakes should normally be bleed (say)right front left rear,left front right rear as this is how the brakes work,not both rear brakes work together with the same line or front brakes work together with the same line,as is did pre-80`s cars.make sure it doesn`t run out of brake fluid while bleeding

It sounds like something in the left rear drum is causing it to lock up. It may be contaminated linings, from a leaking wheel cylinder or maybe some broken hardware. You'll have to remove the drum to take a look.

Sounds like you have been talking to a very aggressive sales person!! Assuming the car is running halfway ok, & without seeing the condition of anything the most critical in terms of breakdown are:

• belts
• brakes
• battery hold down
• cap, rotor, wires, spark plug
• trans, brake & fuel flush(by the way..no where in your maintenance manual does your car call for flushes of any kind!!) Go by what it says in your book
  

Turns out that after 26 years and 233 thousand miles, the original strut gave up the ghost: Rust! I took the shock strut assembly out of a 'spare parts' Honda Accord I keep and replaced the broken one in the Honda I am now driving. Mechanically the car is still excellent, but the car is destined to dissolve around me! To remove the whole assembly required taking out one 14mm bolt at the bottom and three 12mm bolts at the top, some WD 40, several pieces of wood for leverage and a heavy mallet.. Since there is a heavy duty coil spring involved, one should take out the bottom bolt first and lift the bottom of the strut free from its position, ( this is where I used a long 2x4 and another piece of wood as the fulcrum point to pry the strut upward) Then undo the top 3 bolts and the whole unit falls out. You will also need to detach the brake fluid line that uses the strut itself as an anchor. The easiest way is to take the line off from the back of the brake drum housing ( 9mm nut) and remove the horseshoe clip and push the curved metal brake line through the small hole where the line is anchored to the strut. Use care as you will need to reattach the brake line again after installing the next shock strut. (Coil spring compression tool required) Needless to say, you will need to jack the car up and remove the rear tire first to access the whole thing.

Drum, Rear Brake System Standard Rear Brake

Item Part Number Description 1 2069 Brake Shoe Hold-Down Spring Pin 2 — Rear Wheel Cylinder Retaining Bolt (2 Req'd) 3 — Washer (2 Req'd) 4 — Anchor Pin (Part of 2211) 5 — Wheel Cylinder 6 2028 Brake Shoe Anchor Pin Guide Plate 7 2A637 Parking Brake Lever 8 2296 Brake Shoe Retracting Spring (Short) 9 2296 Brake Shoe Retracting Spring (Long) 10 2200 Rear Brake Shoe and Lining (Secondary) 11 — Washer 12 2106 Parking Brake Lever Pin Retainer 13 — Brake Shoe Adjusting Lever Cable Guide 14 2A642 Primary Brake Shoe Parking Brake Lever Link 15 2A601 Parking Brake Link Spring 16 2068 Brake Shoe Hold-Down Spring 17 2A176 Brake Shoe Adjusting Lever 18 2048 Brake Shoe Adjusting Screw Socket 19 2047 Brake Shoe Adjusting Screw Nut 20 2041 Brake Adjusting Screw 21 2049 Brake Shoe Adjusting Screw Spring 22 2200 Rear Brake Shoe and Lining (Primary) 23 2A178 Brake Shoe Adjusting Lever Cable 24 2211 Brake Backing Plate
Heavy Duty Rear Brake

Item Part Number Description 1 — Rear Wheel Cylinder Retaining Bolt 2 00538 Lock Nut 3 2212 Rear Brake Backing Plate 4 2262 Rear Wheel Cylinder 5 2A642 Primary Brake Shoe Parking Brake Lever Link 6 2A601 Parking Brake Link Spring 7 2A637 Parking Brake Lever 8 2106 Parking Brake Lever Pin Retainer 9 — Parking Brake Lever Bolt 10 — Secondary Shoe Assembly 11 2A179 Brake Shoe Adjusting Lever Cable Guide 12 2068 Brake Shoe Hold-Down Spring 13 — Adjusting Lever Pin 14 — Adjusting Lever Return Spring 15 2A176 Brake Shoe Adjusting Lever 16 2047 Brake Shoe Adjusting Screw Nut 17 2049 Brake Shoe Adjusting Screw Spring 18 2041 Brake Adjuster Screw 19 — Primary Shoe Assembly 20 2068 Brake Shoe Hold-Down Spring 21 2200 Rear Brake Shoe and Lining 22 2035 Brake Shoe Retracting Spring 23 2A178 Brake Shoe Adjusting Lever Cable 24 2092 Brake Adjusting Hole Cover 25 2069 Brake Shoe Hold-Down Spring Pin
The rear drum brakes:

• Have internal shoes that expand against the brake drum (1126).
• Are a single-anchor type.
• Are actuated by one rear wheel cylinder (2262).
• Have two pistons in the rear wheel cylinder (2261). One exerts force against the upper end of the primary shoe; the other exerts force against the upper end of the secondary shoe.
• Adjust rear brake shoes and linings (2200) automatically.
• Need manual brake adjustment if the adjusters are not operating properly or after the rear brake shoes and linings have been replaced.

When the brake pedal is applied, hydraulic fluid pressure forces the pistons in the rear wheel cylinder outward, moving the rear brake shoes and linings against the brake drum.
The rear drum brake system includes the parking brake mechanism. Refer to Section 206-05 .

Glad to provide assistance. That is what FixYa is all about. The graciousness of a FixYa rating for my assistance would be greatly appreciated.