Before replacing the timing belt and related components i have tried to start the car repeatedly and have found that the "B+" terminal at the diagnostics connector has no voltage with the key on. I checked for spark before changing the belt, and it had spark. Also repeatedly bypassing the fuel pump relay in an effort to get the car to run, may have melted some fuse or fusible link. I need to ask a technician what to check for next.
First of all on toyota's the key switch sends volts to the relay then to the ecm and the ecm change it to a neg. current to start the fuel pump. Best thing is check the primary lock codes on the ecm. when changing the timing belt , you have to jump the dignostic terminals to place the ecm in limp mode. Need more info
Diagnostic connector gets it power from the cig. lighter fuse change fuse and then you should have power at the connector check the ecm fuse also
SOURCE: 1995 camry has no ignition fire
I think for sure that the timing belt has jumped a tooth. This can happen if your water pump, or your idler pulley, which are driven by the timing belt, "locks up" for a second. Best advice: replace the timing belt (you should not "reuse" it, as once it slips a tooth, that tooth is now weakend. Also, check the feel of the water pump impeller-gear...if it feels gritty or does not spin freely, replace the water pump while you are in there. It's not much more work. Also check the IDLER pulley for the same feel. If it feels bad/does not spin free, replace it. One or the other caused your problem.
Let me know how it turen out.
SOURCE: where is fuel pump relay on 1995 toyota camry
generally toyota, supply `power direct from ecu
SOURCE: my 1989 Toyota p/u wont
I had this exact same problem in my 88 pickup. I replaced all relays and pumps to no avail. What i did was "hot wire" my fuel pump. Run a power wire from the battery of fuse panel to a switch, then from the switch to the positive wire on the top of the in-tank fuel pump. Its kind of inconvienient at first but you get used to having to flip the switch before you turn the ignition key. It also doubles as an anti-theft device if you place the switch in a hidden spot. Good luck, i know its a pain but it is the cheapest/ easiest fix. Please leave positive feedback if i was of some help.
thank you!
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Also i tried to artificially energize the B+ terminal at the diagnostics terminal, but the dash lights come on for a second or less then the automatic shutdown relay breaks the power to every thing on the dash (I think).
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