Thule 757 - can't slide mounts to correct location

The actual cross bars will most likely fit but the 'feet' that mount it to the car won't. You will need the feet specific to your vehicle.

Air filter are often mounted on top or to the side of the engine.
The top mounted filters are usually a round ring filter you fit into a metal 'pan' shaped container positioned right on top of the engine. It will be fastened shut with either clips around the edge or a Wing nut in the centre of the lid. Release the clips or unscrew the wing nut and lift off the lid. The filter should lift out, drop in the new one, refit the lid and refit the clips or the wing nut.
The side mounted filters are often positioned over towards one of the inner fenders and can sometimes be more of a pain to change. They use a slab filter usually about the size of a large book.
Look for a big, wide plastic tube, (likely to be 2 to 3 inches wide), coming from the top of the engine over to a large black plastic box. This will be held closed with either screws or 'hook over' clips. The box will have a rib going all the way around the sides. This is where the fasteners will be. Check all four sides for fasteners ( I've missed screws or clips and wondered why the lid won't come off). You might need to wiggle the lid high enough to slide the filters in and out. Fit the new filter the same way up as the old one the refit the clips/screws.

GO BACK TO THE SUPPLIER OF THE NEW ROOF BARS .....AND ALSO CHECK WITH A THULE STOCKIST TO SEE IF AN ADAPTER KIT IS AVAILABLE

try carparts.com looks like they fit good

Hi there,

eTrailer has published information on mounting the Weekender --- attached here for your convenience.

Good luck.

Thule QM3 Quick On Off Mounting Hardware Kit Recommendation for 1997 Thule...

Two possibilities: Either you have the wrong unit for your engine, or, you need to buy or make either an adapter plate, or drill and tap new stud holes to mount it (use gasket as a template and make sure the base seals properly with no passages overhanging the manifold mount surface....make sure no metal is allowed to enter the manifold while drilling...tape over it to seal it off)

Door Glass and Regulator - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Front Door

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the front door panel to gain access to the regulator assembly.
3. Remove the service hole cover.
4. Lower the regulator until the door glass is in the fully open position.
5. Remove the two glass channel mount bolts.
6. Pull the glass up and out of the door.
7. Unbolt and remove the inside door panel frame if so equipped.
8. If equipped with power windows, disconnect the electrical connector.
9. Remove the equalizer arm bracket mounting bolts.
10. Remove the window regulator mounting bolts and the regulator (with the power window motor attached) through the service hole.
    

To install:

1. Coat all the window regulator sliding surfaces with multi-purpose grease.
2. Place the regulator (with the power window motor) through the service hole and secure with the mounting bolts. tighten the bolts to 48 inch lbs. (5 Nm). Attach the power window harness if equipped.
3. Place the door glass into the door cavity.
4. Connect the glass to the regulator with the channel mount bolts.
5. With the equalizer arm, raise the glass to the almost closed position and make sure that the leading and trailing edges of the glass are equally distant from the top of the glass channel. If not, adjust the equalizer arm to achieve an even fit.
6. Install the service hole cover.
7. Install the door panel and reconnect the negative battery cable. Check window and door for proper operation.

Hope helps (remember rated and comment this).

The headlight assembly (1993 Grand Caravan) is held in place with three plastic "wing nuts" that rotate on the ball-end (front end) of the adjusting screws. One "adjusting screw" (the one on the bottom, inboard side) is not for adjusting, just for mounting. The other two adjusting screws take a torx T15 in the front end of the screw.
Removing the headlight assembly is somewhat of a trick - it seems like it takes a special tool to reach the "wing nut" and turm it 1/4 turn (90 degrees) CLOCKWISE (so the "wings" are vertical). When all three of these mounting "wing nuts" have the wings vertical, the headlight assembly just pulls forward and off these mounting nuts. Place the new assembly back over the "nuts", turn the 3 "wing nuts" another quarter turn, and the new unit is mounted. Probably not even a need to re-adjust the headlights, but you should check.
The PROBLEM, is that it appears to take a special tool to reach and turn these wing nuts without breaking them (yes, the old ones get brittle). I tried a socket (did not work), and then long needle-nose pliers (broke one wing nut), then a 1/2" open-end wrench (which at least worked). However, pushing the new assembly back over the wing nuts, I broke another wing nut. So, I broke 2 of the 6, and one was broken when I started.
Now I need to find replacements for these "wing nuts" ... any ideas where to get them?
Of course I can use some washers, some nuts to fit the fine-threaded adjustment screw, and some sort of bushing (maybe cut a short piece of rubber tubing to fit over the adjustment screw). Place double nuts (second nut to lock the first in place) and a washer, then the bushing onto the adjusting screw, then the headlamp assembly onto the bushing, then add another washer, and two more nuts (not too tight) to lock it onto the adjusting screw (which must still be free to rotate). Repeat for each of the 6 mounting points. I have not tried this yet, but ... it should work.

Fabricate a tool to turn the "wing nuts" using a piece of 3/8 inch ID tubing which you file or cut 1/8 inch by 1/8 inch notches on each side of a diameter line.

Hi Phil

Here you go:

http://shop.aubu.de/catalog/images/montageanleitungen/757.pdf

Cheers, Norman