Overheating from leak not visible

the A/T ?
many AT have a vacuum modulator that can fail and the engine sucks ATF. (not on most 2008 with electronic shifter brain)
or the ATF is going into the RADIATOR cooler . bingo?

i bet you just found it. old post.....

could very well be the water pump. they dont always leak if they are bad. sometimes the impeller that moves the water through the system fails.

You might have a crack in the radiator. i have an 92 accord and it has a plastic radiator (well the top and bottom of it are plastic) and it was leaking like crazy but if you looked at it when it was cool you could not see any visible cracks. So i suggest you start the car let it warm up enough so the thermostat and fans kick in. once the radiator has some pressure on it, it should be easy to see where the crack is. i hope this helps you out.

Who told you to replace the entire engine??? -An engine salesman? You should take advice with caution especially if the advisor stands to benefit. To fix overheating, try putting in a new thermostat. The new thermostat and gasket should cost you less than 20 bucks. Make sure your cooling fans cut on when the engine is warmed up. If not, then check the fuses and relays to the fans. Double check your coolant level. Your oil consumption is perfectly normal.

any motor swap? have a block test done to check for the headgasket... it's possible you have warped the head with the list of cooling issues you have had.

your heater has apparently restricted the coolant flow....hopefully a good system back flushing will cure the problem....use a flush obtained from a parts house....I would buy the hose kit for flushing as well...good luck to you

Check fluid level when vehicle is cold.When it starts to overheat open the hood and make sure the radiator fan is blowing.If all this is OK then your thermostat may be bad.Look under the car when it overheats for leaks also.

you did not state whether or not your electric fan is coming on all the time, check to see if your fan is operating properly , check all fan switches and temp sensors that are in the fan circiut... also check to see if your bottom hose is not collasping, and one more thing also since you have had the system open, some systems operate in reverse flow and need to be bleed of air pockets, look for a bleeder screw around the thermostat housing or pump housing... please rate my help , thanks

that radiator wont fit the civic. it will be too big ... always put the correct size radiator and correct part number radiator in the correct vehicle..

Solve? Although I clicked the link to solve the problem, I have no answers but am tempted to go after honda.

Same problems still occuring on my 2003 honda civic (103,000)!

I have:

-Changed thermostat's twice (180 degree; Yes, it is correctly positoned with the jiggle tab to the top and the correct side facing the engine)
-Installed new water pump
-Checked coolant level
-Changed the timing belt
-Checked for head gasket symptoms (white exhaust, corrosion in cylinders/plugs, loss of fluid, checked cylinder compression (all check out)
-Had the entire system presure tested 3 times with no visible leaks
-Run the car for 45 minutes with no visible drips/leaks
-proped the front of the car up to get air out of the system

This weekend I had spare time on my hands so I replaced the thermostat (checked the other, which according to bioling water at 180 worked as designed) I flushed the entire system, took out the radiator and had it blown out, flushed the entire system, installed new upper and lower hoses, checked the fan switch, I will be replacing the coolant with new, installing a new radiator (since they cost only 100 online and I have the hole front end off anyway, I'll be reinstalling the fans and switches, and trying it out again.

I drive about 100-450 miles between overheating, but it is very sporadic.

Still have the same heater issues- cold air when stopped and not accelerating at times. I am tempted to check the heater core next- but there is no loss of fluid from that ethier?

When I get the system back together, I'll try running the car for a few weeks without the heat on to see if that corrects the problem.

All of the steps to repairing the cooling system seem easy and cost 1/10 of getting them checked at a shop if you have the time!

I'll update again next week!