Can't get old lower control arm off 1994 geo metro. stuck at ball joint.

Hi Adeline,The lower ball joint is an integral part of the lower control arm. If the ball joint is defective, the entire lower control arm must be replaced.So here's a link showing you how to replace. http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0996b43f821a44bb Here's another link to a new part. Control Arm Lower at AutoZone com Best Control Arm Lower Parts for Cars...

just the ball joint
check -if the ball joint is riveted into the lower control arm, it will be necessary to grind the rivet heads then punch out the rivets
replacement ball joints should come with the bolts needed to replace the rivets
some lower control arms have the ball joints pressed in so it is necessary to press out the old ball joint then press in the new unit

the lower ball joint is pressed into the lower control arm. You will need a ball joint press to remove and install the ball joint. The other option is to replace the lower control arm.

Some parts store will have presses for loan. You will have to check around and see if any in your area have these. If you can't find one you could always pull the control arm and bring it to a shop or machine shop and have them swap the ball joint.

Its a pretty simple procedure.

1. remove the wheel
2. remove the pinch bolt that secures the knuckle to the ball joint.
3. separate the lower control arm from the knuckle.
4. remove snap ring from the ball joint (if it has one)
5. use a ball joint press to press out the old ball joint.
6. press in the new ball joint.

if you don't have a press than you can remove the lower control arm by following steps 1-3 above. then remove the bolt from the front bushing. Remove the stamped steel skid pan from the sub frame. Remove the rear lower control arm bushing mounting bolts.

If you have any questions I'll be happy to answer them.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

Grab the front tires one at a time and rock the heck out of them. If there is a loose or rocking/knocking you need new wheel bearings. More than likely you have worn bushing on the lower ball joint arms.In most cases the bushings are not replaceable, you will probably have to replace the lower arm assembly.

To perform the following procedure, the lower control arm must be removed from the vehicle. Refer to Removal And Installation for that procedure.

1. Using a screw driver or other suitable tool, pry the seal boot off of the ball joint assembly
2. Position receiving cup, Special Tool 6758 to support lower control arm when removing ball joint assembly. Install Remover, Special Tool 6919 on the top of the ball joint assembly.
3. Using the arbor press, press the ball joint assembly completely out of the lower control arm.

NOTE: When installing ball joint in lower control arm, position the ball joint in control arm so notch in ball joint stud is in the direction shown. This will ease assembly of the ball joint to the steering when installing pinch bolt.

1. By hand, position ball joint into ball joint bore of lower control arm. Be sure ball joint is not cocked in the bore of the control arm, this will cause the ball joint to bind when being pressed into control arm.

 

1. Position control arm with installed ball joint, in an arbor press with Receiving Cup, Special Tool 6758 supporting the lower control arm. Then center Installer, Special Tool 6908-4 on the bottom of the ball joint
2. Carefully align all pieces. Then press the ball joint into the lower control arm until it is completely seated against surface of lower control arm. The ball joint is correctly installed when there is no gap between the ball joint and the lower control arm. Do not apply excessive force against the ball joint or the lower control arm.
3. Install a NEW seal boot by hand as far as possible on the ball joint. Installation of the seal boot is to be with the shield positioned as shown.

CAUTION: Do not use an arbor press to install the sealing boot on the ball joint. Damage to the sealing boot will occur if excessive pressure is applied to the sealing boot when it is being installed.

1. Place Installer, Special Tool 6758 over seal boot and squarely align it with bottom edge of seal boot. Apply hand pressure to Special Tool 6758 until seal boot is pressed squarely against top surface of lower control arm.

CAUTION: A replacement ball joint is not pre-lubricated. Properly lubricate the replacement ball joint using Mopar Multi-Mile grease or an equivalent. Lubricate ball joint after seal boot is installed but prior to top of seal boot being pushed down below notch in ball joint stud. Air must vent out of the seal boot at notch when grease is pumped into ball joint, failure to do so will balloon and damage seal boot. Do not over grease the ball joint, this will prevent the seal boot from pushing down on the stud of the ball joint.

CAUTION: After the ball joint is properly greased, clip the end of the grease fleeing off below the hex. The ball joint seal boot is non-purgeable and further greasing is not required and can result in damage to the seal boot.

1. Reinstall lower control arm on vehicle.

Hi.




1. Raise and support vehicle.
2. Remove tire and wheel assembly, then install modified outer seal protector No. J34754, or equivalent, Fig.3 .
3. Remove lower ball joint cotter pin and nut, then loosen ball joint from steering knuckle using tool No. J-29330, or equivalent.
4. Position a suitable pry bar between suspension support and lower control arm and separate lower ball joint from steering knuckle. On some models, it may be necessary to remove nut attaching link to stabilizer shaft.
5. Locate center of rivet body and mark with a center punch.
6. Using a 1/8 inch drill, drill pilot holes completely through rivets. Using a 1/2 inch drill, drill final holes through rivets to ensure fitting of new ball joint.
7. Remove ball joint from lower control arm.
8. Assemble new ball joint to lower control arm with bolts provided in service package, Fig.9 . Tighten bolts to specifications.
9. Insert ball joint stud into steering knuckle and tighten nut to specifications, then install cotter pin.
10. Install wheel and tire and check front wheel alignment.

I hope this helps you.

Thanks.

i use a 3 arm puller to force the shaft out of the hub spline (do not hammer on the cv shaft at all, you will destroy it), and either a pickle fork or a specialy designed ball joint puller to seperate the balljoint from the knuckle. if you dont have a special puller and need to save the balljoint. try using a 6 or 8 foot steel bar to pry down on the lower control arm while another person strikes the knuckle at the balljoint location. note pin retainer type balljoints have a small slot which can be spread open alittle with a cold cut chisel or larg screw driver once the cv shaft is out of the way

Please be mindful to carefully note the position of the old parts as you disassemble the suspension, then follow these steps to do the re-installation:

REMOVAL

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

3. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.

4. Remove and discard the tension strut-to-control arm nut, then pull off the dished washer.

When separating the control arm from the steering knuckle, do not use a hammer. Be careful not to damage the ball joint boot seal.

5. Remove and discard the control arm-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt. Using a small prybar, spread the pinch joint slightly, then separate the control arm from the steering knuckle. A drift punch may be used to remove the bolt, but be very careful not to damage the ball joint boot seal.

Do not allow the halfshaft to move outward, or the tripod CV-joint internal parts could separate, causing failure of the joint.

6. Remove and discard the lower control arm inner pivot bolt and nut.

7. Remove the lower control arm from the frame and the tension strut.

INSTALLATION

Make sure the front washer is at the strut-to-lower control arm attachment.

8. Insert the strut into the inner bushing.

9. Position the lower control arm into the subframe bracket, using a new nut and bolt. Tighten to 73-97 ft. lbs. (98-132 Nm).

10. Assemble the lower control arm ball joint stud to the steering knuckle, making sure the ball stud groove is positioned properly. Be very careful not to damage the lower control arm seal.

11. Insert a new pinch bolt and nut, then tighten to 40-53 ft. lbs. (53-72 Nm).

12. Clean the strut threads to remove dirt and/or debris.

13. Install the dished washer, with its dished side away from the control arm bushing. Install a new nut on the strut and tighten to 73-97 ft. lbs. (98-132 Nm).

14. Install the wheel and tire assembly, tightening the lug nuts to 85-105 ft. lbs. (115-142 Nm), then carefully lower the vehicle.

I hope this helps.

The entire control arm is supposed to be replaced on those when ball joint fails. Did you manage to buy another ball joint only?

Getting enough space between the transmission and steering knuckle requires either hoisting the engine and transmission several inches or dropping the lower ball joint. A word of caution on removing the ball joint - the keeper bolt above the ball joint must be removed for the ball joint shaft to come out. Also be careful not to rip rubber boot dust cover on the ball; replacements are hard to find. Unstake the splindle nut and remove it; they are generally very hard to get loose. I suggest an impact wrench, or at least a long 1/2" drive breaker bar. Use a pry bar between the transmission housing and the CV joint to pop the inside end of the shaft out of the transmission; it takes some pressure to pop the snap-ring, but you won't break it.