Polo 1.4 - Im used to driving an automatic, but the Polo is manual. When I stall th engine, the foot brakes won't work. This is scary, especially on a hill!

not told at all if it fails hot and cold engine
if fails cold , rpm is 1200 to 1500 rpm
if fails hot engine, idle it for 15 to 30mins until hot
and RPM is 800 not 400, if idle is not 800 ISC is dead.
the PCM controls idle, via ISC/IAC or TWB (no usa 2.4 has TWB)
no VIN told no engine told so I post in generic ways./
guess is 2.4 L KA24DE I4
KA24DE , inline 4.
top cause is not the transmission!!!
but gee the scan tool tells why it stalls most the time but you did not scan it first so have no clues why.

it is weak engine power. in fact super weak.
stalls in Drive, and reverse and in low (PRNDL)
the #1 causes is ISC dead, idle controls
as you shift to D/R/L the ISC opens for more power at idle for preventing the stall you have. so why not scan the PCM to see whY?
here are more causes. (not a full list or the 20 tests to learn it)
fuel pressure way low, not dead, nor zero just low! from spec.

so engine power is weak even going into gear, 1st
there are other causes, and lots of tests no blind poster to guess.
1: CAT melted. making engine, 1/5 normal power or less.
2: fuel filter near packed and clogged up. weak pump or
3: bad FPR< causing low fuel pressure at idle.
4: ISC stuck (means the PCM cant raise it to let DRIVE not stall.
5: throttle by wire parts (TBW ) bad, scans tell most of this.
6: fuel filter packed.
7: bad fuel.
8: in some rare cases the TC is locked up, and stalls engine.
one way to learn this is to use the throttle pedal at 5%
put foot on throttle , no kid near by
and nothing to hit ,front or rear of car.
put wheel chocks on tires (4"x4" lumber works)so can not roll.
now foot on brake and hand brake set! 3 ways safe.
add some 5% more throttle to say 1000 to 1200 RPM and shift to drive or reverse, in the safe direction I can not see.
the car may bang in to gear hard, so use right foot gently.


and see if it stalls now. (this test simulates an ISC air valve)
if not stalls the ISC is stuck. 90% of time.
ISC = idle speed controller. or TBW is failng.
we can also test fuel pressure doing all that and if too low BINGO
forget the $3000 transmission swaps.
learn to assume cheap bad parts are bad for $20 not $3000 first.
and win. even have money left for IRA or 401k to invest.

if TC is locked up (rare) test it buy starting car in PARK and then neutral both, see if engine acts up. different.

scan the PCM , check all fuses.
is first,
or tow it to any ASE shop in town and say Diagnose it please.
as 99% do today,.

ok our 2.4L usa car
has a complex 3way IAC
thermal #1, IAC and 2 electric valves, 2 and 3
if fails this part in any of 3ways. shifts to drive will stall
not saying I know it is bad but you never scanned the PCm

IAC 3way

Dirty throttle body, dirty air filter,any codes?

gear, is this a Manual trans? or AUTO you said gear.
what gear, please name the gear, 1,2,3,4,5 R
or PRNDL ( a/t box auto matic) what shift lever selection?
what is out door air temp, you do know brakes can get wet and freeze right?
it wont go you meant? until brakes are touched, key word won't?

ok engine only starts in PRNDL set to N??
is that it?
and then when you shift to D, the car will not move
what about the other gears.? try them all yet?

my guess (wild) is that you dont know how park lock out works.?
that you must hold the brake pedal down to shift to park or neutral.
is that it? (read operators guide?)

my guess is car is not drive-able. key point1 (a dead car)
point 2, engine starts and runs. and races on demand with gas foot.
point 3, im lost. (no trans stated or clear symptoms.)

my jeep has 6speed manual box
and the clutch allows me to start car.
on Automatics trans must be in park or neutral to crank engine.

"it will go till i touch brakes"



I read that 10 times,
my 2nd guess. the engine stalls ?

IS THAT IT, stalls means engine RPM is 0
and right foot actions are dead.
and all dash lamps glow, telling you STALL is now.

If you have the foot on the brake when stopping and it stalls , try slowing down and stopping on the hand brake to see if the engine stalls . If it doesn't stall on the hand brake then I would suspect a leak in the brake booster that is affecting the engine by letting air into the manifold through the activated booster. If there is no difference have the fault codes read as there may be a missing/ faulty vacuum line connected to a actuator in the gear box.

did it restart?
the engine stalled, as such you
get
no engine power
no P/S reverts to manual steering, you did not loose steering.
same with P/B power brakes, you didnt lose it you lost power
assist, brakes will stop just as vast but takes a husky foot.
in school (driving) we were though to drive, stalled engine.
i guess most school went dumb. (seen it)
now stalls
engine stall for a vast number or reasons.

do that tuneup not called the 60k mile service point list. did you.?
cars ignored all fail, no car runs 300k miles service free,
skip them and get stranded, (i promise)

1: lost electric power to the EFI system.
2: engine overheated or lost compression for any reasons (complex)
3: lost spark
4: lost fuel
5: too much fuel, flooding, and stalling.
6: egr sticks open.
7: ISC sticks closed.
8:if not restart, say so and list expands way more...

cars are complex, it's not like a burned out desk lamp.
vast complexity and after 2007 , insane complexity.
avoid them 2007 and newer, sans NASA engineer.

Best check under the hood for a loose or broken vacuum line. The fact that the stalling started occurring right after the cable was repaired, would lead me to believe somebody may have disconnected a vacuum hose while installing the cable, or knocked one off, or broken one. If you can't see one that is broken, or loose, start the engine, and wiggle the hoses around while listening for a "hissing" sound. Let me know how you make out.

Hi - what was the solution??

Ive just had exactly this problem. Got new battery today then no idle. The car starts fine and runs for abourt 1 second then instantly dies. Its fine if you keep your foot on the throttle. Unfortunately if you are going downhill as soon as you place your foot on the brake the engine dies and the steering fails - then the brakes!!!

I seem to remember having idle problems the last time I replaced the battery. but not as severe.

Any how I got home after nearly crashing with starting the engine 20 times. Then with the engine off I pressed the throttle right to the floor and released.- and then restarted. That seemed to work for some reason ??? The Idle is now 100% ok although still a bit rough. But at least does't stall.
I cant see why doing anything to the throttle pedal/cable should affect the idle to be killed.?? even if the cable snapped it should still idle.
NB about 10% of the starts the idle actually idled ok for a few minutes before failing again

Any thoughts greatfully received

I now darent go out!!

paul

Misubishi service had no idea- said bring it in!!

Yes, most likely a fault in the auto transmission, and the car has shut itself off to prevent further damage.

Sounds like a bad IAC (idle air control valve/sensor) that controls your idle when going from throttle to idle. If bad your idle will act crazy and can cause stalls easily. Pretty sure that's it.

Wow!!! Now that's a headfull of problems....
This could be a great many things...
Check these before you sell. I have a '93 Aerostar and can't live without it.
1. Check idle speed
2. Fuel filter may be clogged or water in the fuel system.
3. Choke improperly adjusted or sticking.
4. Distributor components damp or damaged.
5. Faulty emissions components.
6. Faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs/ Also check wires.
7. Vacuum leak at the carburetor/fuel injection unit or vacuum hoses.
8. On 1986 models, stalling during idle or deceleration may be caused by sludge in the throttlebody. (2.3 litre engine)
9. On 1986 & 1987 models with a 2.3 litre engine,hesitation or stalling during acceleration may be caused by carbon build-up on the intake valves.....I hope this helps!! Adios