SOURCE: rover 600 1997 not engaging any gears when clutch fully depressed
Sounds like the SLave Cylinder has givin up Possible the Reli=eice Bearing I ALWAYS Replace As A PAIR . If you can put in gear by having someone rock the car front to back and it holds well its pretty Obvious that you DO have A Clutch Master Cylinder or Clutch Slave aat Releice Bearing Problem AGAIN These Parts I REPLACE AS A PAIR. Before ANything Chech Fluid Level that will tell the store IF FULL Most Probably MASTER-- If EMPTY then See where it went Look At SLAVE if wet thats the Culpret. --->> I Hope this INFO helps you and have a good Day >> Please dont forget to RATE me ok ? Thank You
SOURCE: master or slave cylinder...leakage?? lines..??
I am totally unfamiliar with the particular setup you have, however I know a bit about clutches, Sifting through what you said, it appears that your clutch is set up too tight. By this I mean that the throwout bearing is always pressing on the release diaphram (or fingers) on the clutch cover. As you drive this is causing the clutch disc to overheat and slip. The repeated bleeding you are doing likely has no effect on this other than that the time you spend bleeding is allowing the clutch assembly to cool off. If the slave cylinder is part of the throwout bearing and is inside the bellhousing you need to remove it and get one that is slightly shorter. If the slave is mounted on the bellhousing and activates a clutch fork that moves the bearing you will need to find a means of backing off the slave adjustment so there is a bit of freeplay between it and the fork. likely since you can drive it you are looking at 1/4" or less play to get it right. My only concern would be that you may have overcentered the fingers on the pressure plate and damaged the return spring. slipping the clutch also has not done good things to the disc either. (like driving down the road with your foot on the brake is not good for brake pads)
Good luck with your project !!
SOURCE: clutch 'pops' straight to the floor in my 93 300zx
The slave cylinder is replaced simply by removing 2 14mm or 12m nuts on the bottom side of the trans. There is no need for transmission removal.
Remember to point out to the shops that there are two bleeding points for the clutch. On the slave cylinder itself and under the hood on the passenger side. Its right behind the windshield washer fluid fill spot. Sometimes the bleeder is covered with a black cover.
SOURCE: So... are you ready for my clutch question?
So, are you ready for some help with your clutch problem? I will give rhe shop the benefit of doubt and assume they didn't check everything..They did the simple process of parts replacement which it will never be known whether or not you even needed a clutch.. Should we continue?
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