Leak from rack on the right side, shoots out the end of the dust boot.

if this has a conventional front end(not front wheel drive) then there will be one on each outer tie rod end one on each inner tie rod end, both upper and lower ball joints on each side, idler arm and pitman arm. if its front wheel drive it will have a rack and pinion steering. there for there will be one on each outer tie rod end and one on each lower ball joint, if they have grease fittings. so conventional steering has 10 fittings total and rack and pinion has 4 total.

The control arm will move some, the bushings are rubber. Made to do that so the ride isn't like being in a tank. The rack only has one bushing, on the passenger side. If your talking about the bar behind the rack. It is called a sway bay. It has two frame bushings. If the sway bar is moving up and down 1/2 inch, the bushing are bad. There should be some movement, but 1/2 inch is excessive. Again they are rubber. Any thing rubber is going to have movement. But should be sloppy.

look for split in the hard line where fluid is leaking. If you see split, change the line only. make sure power steering reservoir is filled and rack and pinion is full (charge with steering wheel left/right motion). You should be able to remove wheel and inside wheel panel to see power steering fluid shooting out of any hole. There is hydraulic pressure on the lines.

I am assuming you are talking about the power steering rack boot. This means the the seal on the end of the steering rack has blown out. You will need to get a remanufactured rack and pinion, install it, and realign the vehicle

Without knowing where the noise is coming from, you won't have much luck fixing it. If it happens when you are moving you may have to get someone to stand next to the truck and listen.

I am 99.9% sure you have a steering rack leaking, this is a very common problem with this vehicle. The easy way to check is to take a small pick and poke one of the ribs of the boot / dust cover of the rack. Being that this is a dust cover there should be no fluid drip out, if fluid is present replace the steering rack.

A seal in the rack has failed, or been damaged. The rack might be able to be rekitted. Otherwise you will need to replace the rack.

This could be a few things, I would first start by having the front tires inspected and balanced. Unbalanced tires or a tire with a broken belt can cause both a sway and a vibration.
If the tires check out then the only components left are the Rack and the tie rods. If you already have a leak in the Rack you are not long from having to replace it.
You can test the rack and pinion yourself with the help of another person.
Have a friend sit in the driver seat to operate the wheel. (Do Not start the car)
Leave the car on the ground so that the wheels have friction against the ground. You can sit next to the passenger side, have you helper turn the wheel all the way to the left. You will now be able to see the tie rod end and Rack arm. Now have the helper turn the wheel slowly to the right. You will be looking for how much movement is in the arm and the tie rod end before the wheel tire starts to move. You might also see the tie rod end move up or down or hear a slight popping sound. Any of these is an indication that you need Tie Rod ends.
Repeat this process on the drivers side noting any movement of parts prior to the tire moving.
If all the parts are good as soon as your helper turns the wheel you should see the tire move immediately.
If you notice that you see a delayed movement from the time you turn the wheel and the time the Rack Starts moving then you will need to replace the Rack.
Thanks, and I hope this help. Dorrian

Removing the rack and pinion assembly from a 2002 Pontiac Grand Am Se To get the old rack and pinion off of the car for replacement involves lowering the sub-frame, removing the stabilizer bar, and pulling the rack out from the driver side of the vehicle.

• Start by lifting or jacking up the car and removing the front wheels. Once the car is safely supported, disconnect both tie rods from the steering knuckles.
• The rear motor mount sits on top of the cross-member part of the sub-frame, and must be disconnected to allow the sub-frame to drop a few inches. Remove the three bolts attaching it to the center of the sub-frame - one in the back and two in the front near the back of the transmission.
• Loosen the two bolts holding the front of the sub-frame. Place a scissor jack or bottle jack under the rear of the sub-frame where the bolt for the motor mount was. Remove the two smaller bolts from each side of the rear of the sub-frame (total 4 bolts) and then loosen the two remaining larger bolts holding the rear of the sub-frame (these bolts go through the rear control arm bushings and are very long) until the bolts are only going through the control arm bushing, and not into the chassis. You do not need to remove these completely.
• Remove the stabilizer links from both sides.
• Next you must disconnect the steering linkage. This is done easily by lifting up the rubber boot to expose the small bolt holding the linkage. Remove the bolt and pry the linkage upward using a pry tool or screw driver.
• Near the passenger side of the crossmember, remove the bolt holding the power steering line bracket to the chassis. You may now begin to lower the sub-frame using the jack. The front bolts should have lowered the sub-frame about a half-inch or so, allowing you to lower the back of the sub-frame 3 or 4 inches.
• With the sub-frame lowered, you can now access the bolts holding the stabilizer bar in place. The right side has a nut screwed onto the top of it holding the power steering lines, remove this first, then remove both bolts. Pry or pull the stabilizer brackets up and out. Remove the stabilizer bar.
• Now you can get to both of the bolts holding the rack in place. Remove both of these, then begin to slide the rack toward the driver side wheel well until there is no more slack in the power steering lines. At this point you should be able to get to the nuts securing the lines on the rack. Loosen both nuts and be ready with something to cap the ends with. I used part of a plastic bag and a wire to tie it. You can now pull the rack out through the driver side.
• Be sure to replace the rubber o-rings on the ends of the lines when putting the new rack in. Replace everything in the reverse order. Put your tie rods on the new rack, making sure to count the turns or make a mark or measure to be sure your tie rods end up close to the same length as before.
• Bleed the power steering system.

Important: Get an alignment! Not only is it dangerous to drive with your steering out of align but it will also grate the tread off your tires in a matter of weeks or even days.

Are you talking about the rack and pinion steering arm boot?