Mercedes 1987 190E 2.3 serious starting problems. When starting cold at first took 20 to 40 seconds to turn over and would not hold idle without foot on gas. Now only starts with starting fluid which I am told is bad for engine. Repairs in last two months, (new catalytic converter, new starter, new fuel pump and fuel filter, new spark plugs and wires, and new fuel pump relay). I am now considering fuel regulator but am not sure how to test pressure. On one drive about a month ago car engine cut out four or five times while driving at about 55 miles per hour.

You can in most cases repair this slow speed stall or unstable idle by cleaning the engine throttle valve and the idle speed control valve using a product called CRC Spray Throttle valve cleaner. Spray the cleaner into the air intake of the engine with the hose removed from the throttle body, the engine will try to stall so hold up the idle speed manually. Once you have used up about 1/2 can of the cleaner stall the engine out while spraying and turn the key off, disconnect the negative battery cable for 5 minutes and then reconnect and drive the car for a about 25 miles of varied driving modes. If this doesn't cure the problem you may need the fuel injectors professionally cleaned by the dealer service dept.

COLD START PROBLEM

Its cold start issues:----

Go through the list of help links mentioned below:----

Click the link :----

Cold start problem and vehicle shudder around 2500 to 3500 rpms

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2012/10/cold-start-problem-and-vehicle-shudder.html

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Low idle when cold out side?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/12/low-idle-when-cold-out-side.html

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Ford explorer 4.0 will not idle when cold?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/ford-explorer-40-will-not-idle-when.html

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Automatic transmission shift lever hard to move on cold mornings?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2012/01/automatic-transmission-shift-lever-hard.html

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Car won't start when cold?

http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/12/car-wont-start-when-cold.html

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These will help.

Thanks.

Engine stalls or RPM fluctuates at idle up and down or dies near idle.

This problem is commonly caused by a dirty automatic idle speed control valve and throttle valve but always run a OBD2 fault code as well as the cleaning procedure. Buy a can of throttle valve cleaner (do not use carburetor spray cleaner!) from NAPA or Carquest (made by CRC chemicals) and spray it into the air intake while the engine is running, use up about 1/2 the can, engine will try to stall hold the speed up, shut it down and let it soak for 30 minutes, restart and blow out the remaining fluid, shut it down and disconnect the negative battery cable for 5 Min's to reset the base idle control

This is sounding like a "Cold start" sequence is not working. Check with an autoparts store for what Temperature sensors your vehicle has. Many have 2 sensors, one for the dash gauge and the other for the engine controls.

A good sensor is needed to activate the "Cold start" circuit. If the sensors are good, then your computer may need reprogramming.

ok..you must have more than one car???? you don't drive the 300 atall im guessing. #1 start car drive up the road and \back to your house. #2 let it idle till problem starts. #3 once it does start with the problem keep it alive with the gas pedal. #4 once your have it safely from dying in higher rpms "rev it" like a kid would, you know like if you were gonna race some one lol. be careful not to over rev or damage engine. you should do this for five minutes no longer than that. #5 let it idle for another 5 minutes. #6 repeat every day until problem with idling decipates. it took mine 3 300e like 3 days of this. if your not going to drive the car once you get the problem out of the way. turn the car on everyday and let it idle for 5 minutes atleast and take it for a short drive once a week. they get lonelly you know lol. later on you can just turn the car on every 2 -3 days and let it idle but still take it on a short drive atleast once a week

If you have a carborator it is shot - If it is fuel injected than you have need to have your heads cleaned or replaced. If it doesn't turn over at all I would start with your starter. Your distributor can also cause this as well - I had to replace all of the above, minus the carborator and it fixed my problem - Was like a new car afterward.

Noise you are hearing is likely a lifter...you can safely add a pint of marvel oil to either new or used oil and usually it will clear it up.
I also recommend the use of a synthetic oil to prevent problems such as yours. It is more chemically stable and does not form sludge as readily as do conventional lubricants.
Don't expect instant results...It took time to create sludge in lifter...it takes time to dissolve it.

THE DISTRIBUTOR WILL CAUSE THIS PROBLEM IN A HONDA TRY A KNOWN GOOD ONE .

Trying disconnecting the battery again this time for 10 to 15 minutes. Then reconnect and see if it clears the problem.

Hello, I just tried this out and it works for sure (November 2, 2006), it took me two tries so be patient. I have a 2000 SLK 230 so this should work for most model years. There are two nobs on the instrument panel. The nob on the left resets your odometer, this is the nob we are going to use, lets call it button 1. In addition, there are two positions when you insert the key nto the ignition. The second position lights up all of the instrument lights before turning on the car, this is the position we are going to use, lets call it position 2. 1. Turn key in steering lock to position (2) 2. Within 4 seconds press button (1) twice 3. The present status for distance is displayed. Within 10 seconds turn key in steering lock to position 0 (starting position without taking the key out) 4. Press and hold button (1), while turning key in steering lock to position 2 again. The present status for distance is displayed once more. Continue to hold button (1) 5. Release button (1) when you hear a beep. You have now reset it successfully.