Id check your caliper to see if the piston is compressing all the way if not check your fluid it should be clean not brown or if you have been through large amounts of water if it has gotten into the brake system and check your bleeder valve to check if it has rotted or come lose or if you have a break in the lines or air, most likely your caliper is failing to compress.
Testimonial: "Thanks Robert. See added comments."
"On a limb" but with even conventional braking caliper should be ok unless ABS makes difference. This AM along w/metal feel, have high pitch whin until ABS lighted, got brake light too, after 3 miles, stopped, restarted, same problem but NO brake light. Going to bleed front lines today. Oh, from beginning to now, w/ABS working, soft pedal when stopped, not so w/o ABS
Just did diagnostic with codes C0035 (LF Spd Sensor voltage (new sensor)), C0220 (LF ABS channel in release too long), C0899 (Device Voltage Low), U1026 (No DTC definition), U1064 (Lost Comms w/BCM/Driver Info Mod). Also had codes B2725 (Active Transfer Case Mode Sw Ckt), P0455 (Evap Em Sys Leak, Gross). Codes read with CP9580A. Noticed soft pedal even with conventional braking.
Update-Tried to bleed brakes but someone rounded off the left bleeder nut (bought new. I've done all work on it since but never touched the bleeder valves.) plus, the valve is so rusted that liquid mechanic nor vicegrips would remove it. Will need an extractor. Managed to bleed right front. Now, I don't have metal feel in reverse and somewhat less going forward. I can heard the clicking noise and pump as it tries to set the ABS. Once the pump stops the ABS Fault lights. It just takes a little longer. A conventional brake quick stop activates the "Fluid" alarm although the resovior is full. Brake fluid needs replacing! It looks like used motor oil. My CP9180 ODBII doesn't read any codes not even the P0455. I still have a spongy pedal and descends when constant pressure apply but not all the way to the floor. I have both a safety and emissions inspection coming in Dec. Removing the ABS 1 (ABS Logic) & 2 (ABS Pump) fuses may get me past those inspections. I still need to change the fluid and bleed the lines to have good conventional braking. Hope someone out there has 'The Answer'. Thanks.
I may have reversed the ABS fuses. Also, when the ABS Fault lights, so does the brake light. Spongy pedal line should say "when constant pressure is applied..."
Update: I see no one else has jumped on this. After going blind searching the web, I have not come across ANY definitive answer to the ABS Fault issue. I completed the flushing and bleeding. It changed the symptons but wasn't the cure. With the pressure fairly equal, the ABS tried to 'fix itself' but due to either a broken wire or bad pump/module it simply went to "ABS Fault". Still have the grinding noise but not a right hard pull. There's no pull using conventional braking. Bottom line, it's not fixed. I removed the pump fuse. Removing the logic fuse turns on the 'brake light'. Here, the vehicle will pass inspection with the ABS light on but not the brake light. There's a 3rd 10 amp fuse that's linked to ABS, 4-wheel drive, and another function which I didn't remove. Nothing seems to shut off the ABS or ECM code data. After talking to 'my mechanic', I decided to hold off working on it until spring. Still, if anyone has an answer or solid information, I would appreciate the help. Thanks to all who have read this.
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SOURCE: brakes not working
sounds like you still have air in the brake lines i would try to bleed them again hope this helps regards Jim
SOURCE: Brake pedal vibrates while braking and doesent stop right away
There's speed sensors at each wheel. You may have got some contamination in front of one of them... sounds like the abs is trying to compensate for un equal speed at each wheel... and something may be blocking a proper read at one of the wheels...
SOURCE: 2005 GMC Envoy, no brake fluid is getting to the
You may have a defective line on the right front brake. GM had a batch of bad lines installed on several year models. I had one collapse on mine with the caliper closed and burned my caliper, rotor and pads. Try to disconnect the metal line further back at the equalizer and see if you get fluid there. If you do replace line.
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