At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
the above has already been done. what is going on is that the pedal will not come all the way back you have to pull the pedal back up by hand or by foot. sensors have been changed. I think it is somewhere between the pedal and the brake booster? Basically what happened was I was driving and the car started feeling a little funny and the brake pedal felt a little odd when I pushed it down so I got off the main road and sure enough the car came to a complete stop and at first would not let me go anywhere and also the smell of burning I think that was from the brakes just locking up and not releasing. I tried to go forward but it would not let me. After a little bit it seemed to cool (?) and then I was able to make it to the shop. Some stuff was done...new brakes in front and sensor and I was sent back out then it happened within a day again only this time I was on the freeway and all the sudden it started acting up and sure enough locked up and this time it did not really want to release all the way. I am curious if anyone else has had this problem or has any ideas as to what the issue could be. Any help would be much appreciated.the above has already been done. what is going on is that the pedal will not come all the way back you have to pull the pedal back up by hand or by foot. sensors have been changed. I think it is somewhere between the pedal and the brake booster? Basically what happened was I was driving and the car started feeling a little funny and the brake pedal felt a little odd when I pushed it down so I got off the main road and sure enough the car came to a complete stop and at first would not let me go anywhere and also the smell of burning I think that was from the brakes just locking up and not releasing. I tried to go forward but it would not let me. After a little bit it seemed to cool (?) and then I was able to make it to the shop. Some stuff was done...new brakes in front and sensor and I was sent back out then it happened within a day again only this time I was on the freeway and all the sudden it started acting up and sure enough locked up and this time it did not really want to release all the way. I am curious if anyone else has had this problem or has any ideas as to what the issue could be. Any help would be much appreciated.
still having this problem. we have already now replaced the brake booster and the brake pedal is still not returning need more advice if anyone has anystill having this problem. we have already now replaced the brake booster and the brake pedal is still not returning need more advice if anyone has any
You can't post conmments that contain an email address.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
They're located at the rear brakes. If you have drums they're on the inside. You can add one. About midway under the truck, drivers side. You will see where the front cable connects to the rear. Add a spring here going back to the rear . Mount it to the frame somewhere.
indicates a brake master cylinder internal failure
take it to a brake specialist shop for a proper diagnosis
If the brake system has not seen a service or component for the past 5 years , a replacement master cylinder is the professional fix
You said brake shoes rather than pads so I assume they are drum brakes you are having trouble with. Historically some drum brakes are very difficult to bleed but the task is made easier when the brakes are adjusted so hydraulic cylinders are pushed fully in - that means some designs need the adjusters fully releasing or the shoes removing and the pistons retained by a clamp or a hose clip.
Pressure bleeding is best but without the tool it means either bleeding via gravity or back to the pumping which needs technique and feel - sometimes vigorous and sometimes slow but in both cases pausing for a slow count of three at both top and bottom of each stroke is good. The help of an assistant is useful.
In the case of difficulty try pumping the pedal until resistance is felt and keeping your weight on it have the assistant open the bleed nipple and then close it when the fluid flow has stopped - and repeat until there is a good pedal.
When you are certain the brake line has no air in it, if the pedal feel is still unsatisfactory try clamping the flexible hose(s). If the pedal is then ok the trouble remains with the brake but if not the master cylinder must be suspected but before replacement ensure any linkage from the pedal is correctly adjusted and if a brake booster is used that a clearance exists between the booster pushrod and master cylinder piston.
Black sediment in the fluid reservoir indicates the seals are past the best. Sometimes the piston return spring isn't strong enough by design or because of corrosion. Unless the piston returns fully on every stroke you will be wasting time, patience and fluid. A colleague once had trouble bleeding a Simca and they pumped nearly a gallon of fluid through it before they decided they were past caring about seeming foolish and rang the dealer for advice - he was told about the return spring being weak by design and advised to wait 30 minutes between pumps. A couple of hours later there was a good pedal.
HI. This is a classic case of brake booster malfunction. Click here to view a very thorough PDF file that will help with the troubleshooting and repair procedure, as well. I suspect issues with the actual return spring,but you must check all functions to rule out any other issues that may be present, such as, vacuum issues.
Did you adjust the brake light switch correctly? To adjust the brake light switch, first press the brake pedal down a few inches, then pull the switch plunger rod out of the switch toward the brake pedal arm, as far as you can without using excessive force. Next, return the brake pedal to the pedal stop positionagainst the pedal stop and pull the brake pedal toward the rear to push the brake light switch actuating plunger rod into the switch housing limited by the travel of the brake pedal arm rear travel stop position. This procedure automatically adjusts the brake light switch correctly.
If the brake lights still don't turn off with the brake pedal released, check the brake pedal arm for sticking or binding that is preventing the brake pedal arm from returning fully to the pedal stop when the brake is released.
The brake light sending unit under your pedal link sends a signal to the lamps to come on when you depress the pedal. Something is wrong where the pedal meets the unit. Apparently the switch works or the lights would not come on and go off, so either the switch needs to be adjusted to give you more clearance or the the brake pedal return spring is getting weak and not returning the pedal to the full upright position.
It sounds as if your brake booster check valve or brake booster itself has failed, allowing vacuum to both sides of the chamber.
You can verify this by pulling the vacuum hose off the brake booster and plugging the hose, then starting the car and seeing if brake pedal operation is normal. **do not drive like this you will have no brake power assist**
If it operates normally, check the check valve that air flow only goes in one direction through it. If normal, replace your brake booster.
It sounds to me like the master cylinder may not be returning all the way to the rest position. does the pedal eventually turn off the brake light's once it sits for a bit? if it does I would try having the brake system flushed there may be dirt in the bore or it could be gummed up, not allowing for full return. if the brakes are working fine a small carburetor return spring on the pedal might do the trick with out replacing the master.
the above has already been done. what is going on is that the pedal will not come all the way back you have to pull the pedal back up by hand or by foot. sensors have been changed. I think it is somewhere between the pedal and the brake booster? Basically what happened was I was driving and the car started feeling a little funny and the brake pedal felt a little odd when I pushed it down so I got off the main road and sure enough the car came to a complete stop and at first would not let me go anywhere and also the smell of burning I think that was from the brakes just locking up and not releasing. I tried to go forward but it would not let me. After a little bit it seemed to cool (?) and then I was able to make it to the shop. Some stuff was done...new brakes in front and sensor and I was sent back out then it happened within a day again only this time I was on the freeway and all the sudden it started acting up and sure enough locked up and this time it did not really want to release all the way. I am curious if anyone else has had this problem or has any ideas as to what the issue could be. Any help would be much appreciated.
The car is a 1994 Bmw 740i v8
still having this problem. we have already now replaced the brake booster and the brake pedal is still not returning need more advice if anyone has any
×