1997 Ford Expedition Logo

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Michael Babbitt Posted on Dec 18, 2017
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Heater temp control works only in position it is placed when truck is started,as soon as you accelerate the a/c mode kicks out and goes to heat. Just what you want when it is 90 degrees outside. Heat fubction only works if started in the floor position with temp control on hot. Vacuum problem ???? Where to start?

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Riaan de Bruyn

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  • Posted on Dec 18, 2017
Riaan de Bruyn
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Just guessing you might be low on Gas in the unit. Quick fix at the Ac people, they can test in couple of mins.

maria capeles

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  • Expert 37 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 18, 2017
maria capeles
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Turn it off and open window

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Anonymous

  • 29 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 03, 2008

SOURCE: HEATER TEMP CONTROL IS STUCK ON HEAT. WILL NOT SWITCH TO COOL

sounds like your blend door actuator has failed, or the lost vacuum to this actuator, or something got into the vents holding the blend door into position. Most common is the acuator failing, good news is its a fairly inexpensive part, but gettin to it is not fun, its it the ductwork in behind the dash, I'm not sure on your specific model but most I have seen the dash has to come completely out. If it gets to that point you may want a repair shop to do that.But hopefully you get lucky and its easy access.

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Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Nov 22, 2008

SOURCE: No dashboard heat output

The climate control was poorly designed on these cars.

There is only heat on the floor and defrost settings, due to the layout of the ductwork.

emissionwiz

Marvin

  • 85242 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 21, 2009

SOURCE: 1997 F150 heater problem

your problem is caused by the air temperature control blend door actuator motor being defective, the little motor moves the door that gives either hot air or cold air or a blend of the 2.

icorella

  • 15 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 12, 2009

SOURCE: ford ka heater blows hot air all the time

Your problem is a faulty heater control valve. The design used on these vehicles allows for hot water to flow constantly and compete with the evaporator as there is no blender door. You have to replace the valve and possibly the control head. Meanwhile, you can bypass the valve to have cold air

dnewcombe1

Dana Newcombe

  • 1564 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 20, 2010

SOURCE: 1997 ford e250 van. heat only no cool air.

One of your deflector door servos or the door itself, is hanging up. To determine this more clearly, run your vehicle for about two minutes and shut down the engine. Move your function selector knob from defrost to floor to panel and listen carefully for a sweeeping sound. if you do not hear this sound you've got to check under the dash for a loose vacuum line or under the hood for a loose or broken line to the vacuum accumulator. The vacuum accumulator is a large black ball on the firewall with only two lines connected to it. One line is about3/32nds of an inch and the other will be about one quarter inch. Check these lines well, for they control ALL the functions within yout climate control. Best of luck my friend, Dana

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Can the problems associated with code P2127 on a 2010 Chevy Impala cause a/c not to kick on?

DTC P2127: Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) Sensor 2 Circuit Low Voltage

This is right out of factory service repair manual , don't google stuff may not be accurate.
If you look under the steering wheel at the gas pedal you will see connectors at the Accelerator Pedal . position sensors inside gas pedal .

Circuit/System Description
The throttle actuator control (TAC) system uses two accelerator pedal position (APP) sensors to monitor the accelerator pedal position. The APP sensors 1 and 2 are located within the pedal assembly. Each sensor has a 5-volt reference circuit, a low reference circuit, and a signal circuit.
Two processors are also used to monitor the TAC system data. Both processors are located within the engine control module (ECM). Each signal circuit provides both processors with a signal voltage proportional to pedal movement. The processors share and monitor data to verify that the indicated APP calculation is correct.

It's not see wide open throttle like other guy says .

P2127
The ECM detects that APP sensor 2 voltage is less than 0.16 volt for greater than 0.5 second.


Action Taken When the DTC Sets
• DTCs P2120, P2122, P2123, P2125, P2127, P2128, and P2138 are Type A DTCs.
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Anytime the vehicle goes into reduced engine power mode A/C shuts off - cruise control won't work etc..

Just change the gas pedal assembly .
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The noise is one of the actuators that moves the air flow doors into different positions. Common problem. When the noise happens, move the temp. control from cold to warm. If the noise goes away, it is the temp. actuator. Or, press the recirculation button to go from fresh air to recirc. If the noise goes away, it is the recirc. actuator. Or, change the mode from vent to heat. Could be the mode actuator. Usually the temp actuator acts up.
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I have a 93 Saab and my vents aren't blowing heat. When I hit a bump in the road it may kick my heat on full blast for a couple of minutes, but as soon as I hit another bump, the heat kicks off. Also, the...

You don't say whether the fan starts and shuts off with the bumps, or the heat goes cold but the fan stays on. If it's the fan shutting off and coming back, you most likely have an intermittent connection to the blower motor somewhere at the fuse box, the fan speed control switch or the fan motor, or a loose ground connection at the fan motor. The fan motor is visible under the right side speaker grille on the dash. Make sure you re-connect the short black corrugated hose to the grill vent or you won't have defrosting on that side!

The air distribution rotary switch controls where the air goes. The fan speed switch controls exactly that: fan speed. the temp rotary switch controls the coolant temp into the heater core. You need to clarify what you mean by "Also, the dash controls for the vents won't allow me to turn up the power"

You might also have one or more of the following issues:
  1. is you vacuum tank properly connected and are there no leaks in the vacuum piping? The tank is in the driver side rear wheel well below the trunk deck on a convertible, and in the passenger side front fender area on the other cars. It's a white bottle with one or two hoses connected to it. If not properly on, your vacuum operated heater flaps won't move. Does the air distribution knob make sucking or hissing noises when you set it to different positions? If not, check the tank connections, look for vacuum line leaks, then suspect the vacuum valve behind the distribution knob.
  2. if the air distribution rotary switch makes noises when you change its setting, but nothing happens, then suspect the vacuum solenoids that open and close the heater flaps - could be a loose vacuum line or a defective vacuum solenoid
  3. the shaft connecting the temp control knob to the heater valve behind it may not be properly in place. This can be inspected, and adjusted if necessary, from the left side speaker/vent cutout on top of the dash. Make sure you re-connect the black flex hose to the air vent tube, or you'll get no defrosting afterwards!
  4. remember, the centre vents always blow cold air; a brilliant idea from Saab so the driver (and passenger) can get fresh air in the face and stay awake while the rest of the driver, passenger and car is toasty!

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