I'm trying to post all that I can in 1postyour number 1 injectors wires are tan the control wire and white /red stripe and the connector at the injector must be cleaned next
Go to the plug shown here and locate the wires now next you will have to check these plugs on both sides male/feHere I am again, 2003 crown victoria 4.6 CNG. On - 1513372197059-850415242-ew35rlhdzj3cdnko1yunt12i-2-2.jpg415242-ew35rlhdzj3cdnko1yunt12i-2-2.jpg" alt="1513372197059-850415242-ewHere I am again, 2003 crown victoria 4.6 CNG. On - 1513372273881-1030247067-ew35rlhdzj3cdnko1yunt12i-2-5.jpgbr>
Then trace the 555 tan back to here next post coming getting to big
The 175 connectors are hereand this connector to which is located here pin 9 c1838 /white red stripe if images aren't clear hit me up and I'll do them again you must check all wires for holes this will make the copper wire oxidized and when the wire is like that it makes contact for a short time then cut off also check all pins on connectors and make sure the are straight and also make sure all connectors on the power train control module and the fire wall are tight and clean and no lubricant on them///these pics are for a p71 2005 crown victoria and should be the same for yours hopefully this helps you and I'm pretty sure that you have a broken wire or loose connector please write down everything you've done to this point so we can rule out possible causes to get to the end I'm a taxi mechanic in nyc.with 50 years experience in all phases and I'm sure that you have a bad wire or pin you have to find it go slow observe very carefully every wire and connector use a magnifying glass and also a continuity tester with long jumper wires good luck and let me know what's happening I'll get you there it just takes time good luck stephen
Also check here the 15 splice in that photo and this oneand here also this is a wire contact problem don't give up we'll find it
Also the tan wire is the run wire after starting so there it is
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SOURCE: 2001 mazda protege will not start
well, with all that you have changed the only two possible things that are left PCM and the ECM....
Do you have an alarm system on this vehicle? If you purchased this car second hand it may have something that is inhibiting the engine from firing. From what you have told us here that would be where I would start looking.
I really hope this is helpfull
SOURCE: 99 olds alero 2.4
I'm sure you have installed a fuel pressure gauge and monitored the fuel pressure while the problem is occurring?Another diagnostic tool which is easy to do,is while the problem is occurring,unplug one sensor at a time beginning with the Mass Air Flow first,.if it uses one.Many times,not always,depending on the sensor,if the sensor is taken out of the picture as far as what the PCM is seeing,like unplugging the MAF,the PCM will substitute the missing sensor output with a generic value that will allow the engine to at least run,and if unplugging for example the MAF,the engine idle speed returns to normal,you know you're onto the problem.You didn't mention if the engine ran ok other than the idle problem.As far as checking for vacuum leaks,i use something like brake cleaner or WD 40,more of a liquid,and it does sound like a vacuum leak.Plastic intake manifolds do develop nearly invisible cracks that open up more with heat.Revsisit the possibility.And as for the PCM,it is possible,but more likely a mechanical problem.Lastly,remove an O2 sensor or two before the catalytic convertor,run the engine and see if anything changes.Cheap way to verify the catalytic convertor is flowing and not restricting engine airflow,as i have seen bad cats cause misfire codes and strange problems.Good luck.
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