Horn Relay replaced multiple times in a few months
So my horn started slowly dying, i noticed, as i clicked my car to lock. It got weaker and weaker until it stopped working. That was about 4 months ago, I thought it was the horn so i took it out and tested it, it works fine. The relay was clicking, so i replaced it. Worked great for about a month. This same circle of events has been going on for about four months, and i'm done spending the $13 Autozone is charging for this stupid relay. What is/can be the cause of this? Surely it's not the horn itself frying relays left and right, i barely use the thing! The horn FUSE is fine, never blown, the recommended 15A. Is there something else connected to this relay that I'm missing? I suppose not since it says "horn" on the label and all the wiring diagrams I've found a practically a straight path from wheel to horn.
So, my question, why does this repeatedly keep happening? Thanks!
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Re: Horn Relay replaced multiple times in a few months
Actually you use the horn relay a lot! At least 3 times every time you get lock/unlock your car (6 toots, 2 toots for lock and 1 for unlock right?) ... You just said: "as i clicked my car to lock. It got weaker and weaker until it stopped working" Buy a different brand relay (preferably one not made in China, pay more) and don't expect they WILL last a long time the horns take a lot of power and they have a very dirty feedback to the relay un-like lights. You can dis-able the toots by reading your owners manual.
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your remote is picking up another signal some place and your cars being haunted by it reset alarm settings now the other problem is your battery is getting weak loosing its charge because its constantly on simple get charger to trickel charge system or replace battery
If the relay clicks when the horn button is pressed the horn is the problem, if no then the clock spring contact under the steering wheel is defective. The horn is under the car behind the front bumper area.
do you hear a click sound from a relay when pressing on horn button? most likely is underhood. if so,locate the horn(s) and test voltage with a test light or DVOM at the horn + side. if both have voltage,check - side.(ground).if both are correct replace both horns.
Yes, if a car doesn't have a working horn, it would, in most if not all states fail a safety inspection.
If you hear a click, then it could be the relay clicking or the horn trying to operate. Likely, it's just a bad horn or a bad ground connection at the horn relay.
I would take the vehicle back to the repairman and ask about the horn and repairing it, or have the inspector who failed it repair it for you.
Horns go bad on cars due to corrosion or non use over time. I've had a few go bad on motorcycles which were even stored in a garage. Opened one up one time and found rust on the contacts that made it not work or oscillate to make a sound that is audible.
I think that you could locate the horn, and see if all of the wires are physically there, and try a test light to ground it out, as horns should always have power (as long as the battery is charged up) whether or not the ignition is on.
If you ground out one or the other terminals with a test light, at the horn, then it should beep.
If not, then the horn itself is bad.
Replace with new.
It is really that simple.
I have a 1997 Cadillac Deville that wasn't used for a while and the horn went bad on it and it was replaced as one of the items required for Pennsylvania State Inspection.
Lets try step by step heck $600 you re-run a new horn. Open your hood, and take the fuse/relay box cover off. Press your horn listen for the relay to click in the box if the relay does not click then it is not triggering. take a paperclip and pull the horn relay and jumper 30 and 87 as seen on the bottom of the relay in its corresponding spots in the panel. Your horn should sound. The last time i ran across this problem was the steering coulmn did not have an adequate ground, checking that could be a simple check of jumper cable to the metal of the column and the battery ground.
Standing out side the car, reach in and push the horn pad. Do you hear a click under the hood?
If not, check your fuse. If the fuse is good, check the relay.
If you do hear the click, your horns have likely failed. You can check for 12 volts with a multimeter or test light on the horn wire when the pad is depressed to verify. If the relay and fuse check out OK and you still do not have power at the horn wires, your pad may have failed or the wire has come loose from it. This is an airbag component and should not be disassembled without familiarity with airbag systems..
If you do have 12 volts at the wire with the pad depressed, replace your horns.
One horn is located below the drivers headlight. The other horn is near the firewall on the passenger side.