The first thing i would do is replace the distributor cap and rotor. They are a real common problem on these engines.
The only thing in the distributor is a cam sensor. There is a coil driver mounted with the coil, but I have never seen one that was bad. If you changed the cap last year is it under warranty? If so you can try one for free. You said the fuel pressure is 55. Try pinching off the return line at the tank and turn the key on. Then post how high the fuel pressure gets it should at least top 70.
Is it still blinking after the engine stalls? It sounds like the contacts are bad in the ignition lock cylinder.
Your problem is the security system. Try this, Turn the key to run, wait for the security light to go out. Jump the starter with a screwdriver or bump starter and see if it starts and continues to run.
It would be the lock cylinder where the key goes in, not the electrical ignition switch. You said the security light would come on and go off if you just turn the key on. So, It sounds like when you turn the key cylinder to the crank position, it is loosing connection for the security system. I was wanting you to try to crank the engine without turning the ignition lock to start. Jump the big bolt that the positive cable is hooked to, to the small bolt on the starter solenoid. If you jump the two big bolts, the starter will turn but the solenoid won't engage it into the flywheel.
Go ahead and check codes first. You will likely have p1629. To reprogram the security system you have to leave the key on for 3 ten minute sessions. I can explain this in detail if you need me too. But have you brother scan it first and let me know what you get. If you are using a genesis you should be able to scan the BCM too.
Sounds like a snap-on mt 2500 or a solis. Thats o.k. did you have any codes?
What does it do when you try to start it like I said. And when you do it what does the security light do?
Yes, I know the system you have won't disable the starter. But it sounded like the ignition lock cylinder was bad but only in the start position. You have verified what I was trying to get you to test. You have a bad ignition lock cylinder. It will need replaced or you can also bypass the system. Once you replace the lock cylinder, you will need to reprogram it with the three ten minute sessions. If you decide to bypass it instead let me know and I will post how.
It is running with the security light on? Have you check the price of a new lock cylinder? As for the 420 code. Run it for awhile and see if the code returns. Usually the only was to get that code to go away is to replace the cat. Unless you live in an area that does emission tests I wouldn't worry about it. But as for the security issue I would replace the lock cylinder or bypass it. If you want I can post how to bypass it with resistors from radio shack.
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Does it rev up when it does start?pull out the mass air flow sensor(big nut with electrical plug in the middle,)spray the inside part(looks like an arrow head with a spring behind it)with carb cleaner and try it again,be very careful because they break really easy...does it sound normal when it starts then dies right away?then its posible the injectors arent spraying correctly due to dirty injectors or bad fuel regulator getting either/or too much fuel or not enough
Sounds like a co2 sensor
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Nope... Back fires at times when starting.
After starting the motor sounds like it dies of lose of fuel.
BTW.. it not always starts... most of times have to crank it a few times for fiew seconds. Just when it does start... dies right up.
hmm... does it sound normal when starting??? - well.. I guess.
Beside the fact that you have to still crank it as it begins to start.. when it starts it goes to reg RPM and quits. I have checked the spark plugs... were black and dirty, cleaned them and still no go.
How one can check the regulator? if it produces too much pressure.
There is a fuel pressure check point just to the right of the distributor... checked there at 55 psi
One more thing...
The way this issue arrived:
I have parked the van for around 3 months... went once started it up, drove around the block few times and parked again over the winter, just about 2 weeks ago tried to move it with no luck.. LOL
Cosmok123... yes, I would too. The only thing is I changed it last year. Took it appart and it all looks good and clean.
A friend of mine suggested the modules, is it the pick up module that sits in the distributor, just under the cap?... also the one that sits on the coil.. would that be the ignition module?
csmock132...
About the Security light flashing...Â
I could have missred your question... when I am cranking the light is flashing.. yes.
When I just turn the key to ON position.. the light comes ON and goes away.
After it stalls it blinks 3 times and goes OFF.
I had a Mobile Mechanic scan the Van the other day... it came up with 2 codes, when he tried to 'read' them there was nothing displayed. If I remember correctly he used a Genesis scanner.
Wonder if the computer is gone. I used Quick Start trough the air intake.. the VAN was running somewhat normally very soon after I stopped spraying, it died.. Changed the Spark plugs to new ACDelco platinum today, the previous set was as black and dirty as they can get.. still no change, no go. Checked the spark color.. yellow. hehehe got zapped very good a couple of times. LMAO
Will try your suggestion with the fuel line and will change the Rotor and Cap as well, cant hurt.
ABout the ignition cylinder..are you talking about the Ignition switch?
Got that changed a year ago as well.. lost the key and had to got to the dealer to get a new one.
Could this be checked and might this be an issue with stalling?
Boy.. ya lost me here.. hehe
Do you mean turn the key ON but do not start cranking, then jump the starter?
I have the ignition switch to ON position, tried jumping the starter... it spins like hell but does not crank..the solonoid does not ingage.
I do short the 2 big nuts..yes?
I tried to crank with the key... it cranks OK.
OK.. this is what I have tried so far.
Cranking.. to start the car, it starts ( sometimes ) then it shuts off. ‘security light starts to flash.. as the motor starts then it continues to flash 3 times for total of 4 times after it dies.
I have turned the ignition key to run.. then shorted the relay for the starter and relay for the fuel pump… the car cranks, I her the pump and ….. still same issue.. wont keep runnin.
I will clear all the codes from the ECM in about one hour when my Bro comes with the scanner.
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Any other suggestions Csmock123 ??
Hey Csmock.Thanks for all you have tried.. Thumbs up..\
With the key in run position jSo I have tried this umping the big bolt that the positive cable is hooked to, to the small bolt on the starter solenoid does nothing... no response.
So I have tred this:
I have turned the ignition key to run.. then shorted the relay for the starter - Cranks but NO go. then I have tred shorting the starter relay and relay for the fuel pump at same ti… the car cranks, I hear the pump and ….. still same issue.. wont keep runnin.Â
I will clear all the codes from the ECM in about one hour when my Bro comes with the scanner. I will attempt to make the ECM learn new security codes from the ignition tumbler.Â
I had a Mobile Mechanic scan the vehicle with a Genesis scaner, 2 codes were found.. when we attempted to read the codes... there was nothing to read.. ??!!... ..could this be a faulty ECM unit?Â
Oh.. but there is lose of connection at Start position so learning codes would not work.. I gues... sory I missed that point.
Yes.. the light comes on and dies off after a fwe seconds when the key is turned to RUN.
You think its the Tumbler or the Reader?
My Bro does not have the Genesis... he uses some red rectangle one.. looks like a brick, its a snap-on scanner (he says its state of the art.. I doubt it doh..).
One more thing... not sure if this is important to my situation.
When I turn the key to ON - the power locks lock down and when I turn it to OFF they open... it never happened before with a weird exception at a few times recently that the power locks would flicker on and off constantly for few minutes when the ignition key was taken out of the tumbler.
No codes whatsoever, not even the one that should be there, there was an issue with my CO2 sensor prior to this no start issue, the 'engine service' light was on.. The vehicle did not pass AirCare inspection and was parked for last few months.Â
Now I have no clue where to dig next.. like hitting a brick wall.
Csmock.. I have tried to jump the starter from underneath the car with the key in RUN position. Can’t get it to crank that way. Not sure if the solenoid has 3 or 4 contacts on it. For sure there are 2 fat knobs and one smaller one for the solenoid... tried to check if there is one small one opposite of the one I can see but there is no way I can be sure.. can’t reach far enough with my fingers. I am almost certain there are only 3 contacts on that solenoid. I can by-pass on the relay.. it sounds the same as I would crank with the key. I will ask my better half.. hehehe.. to help me. I will get her to by pass the starter on the relay and I will sit in the cab to look at the light. Also I will get a can of quick start to let the van fire up and will observe the light that way too....
Btw… I visited a Chevy dealer yesterday to see what my options are for parts and such..
The Tech told me that there is no way this truck will start up by shorting the starter in the locked failed passlock mode.Â
He said that the system on my van does not disable the starter but shuts off the fuel injectors and the way I want to do it would only work on a vehicle that has a passlock system disabling the starter.
Got some parts pricing.. damn.. not cheap.. the tumbler with coding of the key is not that bad.. 120 $ Canadian but he says since I have changed the tumbler last year it might be also the tumbler housing.. there is a replacement kit available for just under 400$.. OUCH.!! Â
OK.. tried the can of quick start with the key in RUN, van starts, light keeps flashing till I stop spraying and the vehicle dies.
Tried starting with the key and the quick start, van runs and light keep flashing.... same symptoms
OK.. got it to run.This is what I did. Took the key tumbler out of the housing, cleaned it and the inner housing with a dry cleanex and assembled it back together.
Connected the battery leads back on. Removed the starter relay... as per dealer instructions.
Turned the key to crank position and released, the key stayed in RUN. After around 2 minutes the security light started bilking, did for 10 min.. and went OFF. Re did the procedure 3 times with 30 seconds rest in OFF position between tries.
The third time just after the light stopped blinking the security light lit up for a couple of seconds with out of flashing.. and died OFF.
I took the key out and re-inserted back in to the tumbler, turned to RUN and noticed the light stayed lit all the time... Then I have cranked it and the van started up...
But...now when the van is running the light stays ON all the time...Â
Suggestion??
Ya ta MAN... thank you for help.!!
Well.. it's running with the light ON.. Cosmock123.. do you suggest we by-pass it??Â
There are some modules one can buy I heard and there is the "yellow wire playing with".. which way do you suggest?
Also.. is there a driving procedure to make the ECM learn whatever it has to?? - Got an issue with AirCare with P0420 code.. guess its the CAT but one CO2 was showing 0.00 volts on the 'snap-on' when we scanned it so I replaced it and one ‘genius’ cleared the codes.
Some people say drive it for a week and some tell me to do the driving procedure...I am on 'by day' insurance now.. getting expensive.
Is the security light flashing?
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