How to replace left inner tirerod (Special tools?)

One end of the tie rod is a left hand thread
make sure that you are turning it the right way

remove wheel, remove outer t/r from knuckle, need special very deep socket/tool to encompass inner tie rod end, remove, reverse to install

They screw on & then are cripped with a special tool

You will need to rent or borrow in inner tie rod tool but here are the directions.
1. Break the jam nut on inner tie rod to outer loose.
2. Remove nut from outer tie rod attaching it to steering knuckle.
3. Use hammer to get tie rod out of knuckle.
4. Unscrew outer tie rod then jam nut
5. Remove clamp from boot and slide off inner tie rod.
6. Using side cutter or hammer and chisel break off metal clamp on the inside of inner tie rod boot.
7. Using inner tie rod tool, unscrew inner tie rod from rack and pinion
8. Reinstall parts and have it aligned

you can replace just the tie rod yourself although you do need a special tool but you should be able to get it at any parts store just take the outer tie rod loose from the steering knuckle remove the rubber boot from the inner tie rod and get the proper size tool to fit he nut and remove and replace the inner tie rod and install in reverse order make sure to count the amout of turns that removed the outer tie rod and reinstall the same amount of turns then afterward the car needs to be aligned

Maybe just a tie rod fork ...you can probably get a loaner free of charge (just requires a deposit) from Auto Zone or one of the chain parts stores.

I used this website: http://www.allpar.com/fix/intrepid-steering.html It worked perfectly. To add to it, I used a tie rod puller tool rented from Oreilly Auto Parts for only a few bucks, to press the old bushing out of the inner-tie-rod end. Worked very well. Easier than removing the entire tie rod, and hammering it out. However, removing the entire tie rod would make re-assembly easier. If I did it again, I would strongly consider removing the driver side tie rod from the car, then attaching the inner tie rod end 1st. Meaning, attach the passenger side inner tie rod 1st, then the driver side inner tie rod with new bushing, then re-attach the drivers side outer tie rod. That would probably be the easiest way on this 1996 dodge concorde, due to the fuel line that's in the way....

Here's a link to a basically what your into, except you won't remove rack from vehicle, but it gives you a good idea of what your doing. Where he talks about a jamb nut, also watch for a spring pin, that may be through it, that would have to be removed.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mk-toz8jsdI

222,000 miles? that's a good vechile so far! anyways, do some price checking. new rack and pinions come with the inner tie rods. so if it's like 50 more for the whole assembly, i would but if not, it's up to you. i've changed some rack and pinions on vechiles that were under 150000 due to major leaking. and if you put just new rods in, if it dose start leaking later, you'll get new inner rods again with new system you'll just be paying labor and alingment charges again. so again, my OPINION is if I'm going to keep it for a while and if it's COST effective, just to do the whole unit.

oh yes, this is a problem with most all chrysler cars, front wheel drive, they will not admit to it or fix the problem though. just give us 2 or $300 and we'll repair it. bs. you need a bushing replacement kit, autozone under 10 bucks. and a little patients. drop me an email and i will upload photos of steps and try to talk you through it. not that hard no special tools only took 45min. no charge of course. you have to stick it to the system some times.
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