I replaced the battery in my 2006 t@c last night and ironically it won't start. getting spark and sprayed carb cleaner into throttle body and it coughs and sputters.checked the fuse and relay and both are good.anything else to check other than changing the fuel pump? like a reset anywhere?
No reset switch. Hook up a fuel pressure gauge an check pressure . Check electrical circuit , voltage drop testing . are the fuel injectors firing ? Anti-theft system light lit ? anti-theft system problems on some vehicles will disable fuel injectors .
Testing Electric Fuel Pump Problems with Voltage Drop Test
SOURCE: I have a 2001 chrysller sebring coupe with a 2.5
it's a fuse problem ... check for a IGN, PCM fuse in the fuse box .
Testimonial: "we checked all the fuses and relaysIt ended up being the fuel pump I was using a cheap test light. But when I got a good light there was power "
SOURCE: I went out to warm
First unhook the battery for about a half hour to reset the computer.
does that have anti-theft on it.
a remote starter ?
second either swap the relays for the starter and fuel pump or replace them outright.
when you bypass the relay to get it to crank... will it start ?
Robert
if that radio is of the anti-theft variety make sure you know the code and how to enter it
SOURCE: 2001 pt cruiser wont start after changing the cam
l like keepin it simple and say check all grounds clean n tight and engine fuse box is dry and clean.
SOURCE: parked my 2000 chrysler cirrus last night and
Sounds like you've done the basics, so lets try some more advanced tests.
Remove one spark plug, and reconnect the wire to it. Lay the park plug on the engine, in such a way that you can see the gap, and so that the threads touch metal. Take a step back from the engine and have someone turn the key to try and start it. Watch the little gap for a spark. This is not always easy to see in the day light, but the spark should be visible. If you do not see a spark, just to be sure, try another spark plug. If you still don't see a spark, move on. If you do have spark, get yourself a can of starting fluid, and spray a blast in each cylinder. To do this, you will have to remove the spark plug, spray a little, then replace each spark plug. Do it one at a time so that you don't accidentally get them out of order. No try and start the car. If you have spark, and you sprayed starting fluid, it should fire up, or at least kick over on its own a few times. It won't stay running however. This just proves that it is not getting fuel. Since you hear the fuel pump running, you should focus on checking the wiring to the fuel injectors. After inspecting that, ensure you do have fuel pressure. On the fuel rail (follow the fuel injectors backwards) you will see a schrader valve. It will look like the valve stem on your tire where you fill it with air. It may have a cap on it like you have on the tire valve. With a cold engine (to prevent fire), turn the key on so you hear the fuel pump. Place a rag over this valve and push it in. This will release a spray of fuel, but that should be contained by the rag. You will dump fuel on the ground, but this can't be helped. The fuel on the engine will evaporate quickly enough. Keep pushing the valve down to make sure it maintains pressure. If you have fuel pressure and spark, but no ignition, then you've pretty much moved out of the easy to test realm of problems, and the paths to go are to numerous.
If you did not have spark in the first place, then work your way backwards. You can buy new spark plugs to be sure, but not spark on multiple cylinders usually means the coil pack is bad. If you have the 2.0, or 2.4, then you have a single coil pack. It's right on top of the engine and you can follow the short spark plug wires to it. Make sure the wiring harness is connected solidly. It's cheap, and not to hard to replace. It just takes patients to get the bolts out. On the other hand, if you have the 2.5 engine with the V6, then you have a distributor that has likely gone bad. It's actually really hard to get to. You can follow the spark plug wires to it, and at least pop off the cap. Inspect the cap and the roter underneath. Do not remove and wires from the cap until you've labeled them and made yourself a diagram to reattach them. The cap and rotor are cheap enough that you can try and replace them to see if that's the source of your no-ignition problem. However, if you replace them and still have no spark, then you distributor is bad. It's not easy to replace, and requires that you be able to adjust the timing on the car afterward. If it's your problem, it's best left to a mechanic.
Hope this helps.
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