Turn key, no start, dash dead, but intermittent symptons

Your starter is probably intermittent remove starter and get a bench test done for free at autozone

Ignition switch is likely worn out making intermittent contact.

do you have a voltmeter, any?
if you do, this is childs play, but not, near impossible to see electrons
with eye balls. we can see atoms, but not electrons, probably never.
Dr.Tyson...... quote.
but back to earth, this is easy , the FSM cover this, as does alldata.com
but i bet $15 for the online is over budget?
my guess, is not have any elect. power really means you cant
CRANK the engine over?
or it cranks or will not start.
no car cranks with out a starter, cept my M/T i can push start
it and gravity start mine.
but my guess 2 is yours is A/T tranny.
so must crank.

why not post like this.
i get in car, i turn on head lights, they are dead. (dead battery or fuse blown) no, my head lights work. (this is always test 1)
then i turn the key on, and the dash idiot lamps all glow. (normal)
if not the fuses are blown or the battery is dead.
a good battery reads (any voltmeter even walfart $10 meter)
12.6vdc rested.
ok my dash glows. and more important the EFI CEL lamp
this lamp is called many thing, MIL, SES or check engine light
if it dont glow, then the Fuser to the EFI are in fact blown.
or the lamp is bad.
if in usa, you can plug any OBD2 scan tool into the near knees DLC port and it will connect, key on, if not the fuses are BLOWN.
you push the scan button and get what codes? DTC errors.
report them.
then crank for 5 seconds (im assuming it can) and you get what DTC.

if car will not crank
then jumper start crank it. does it?
yes, then the battery was dead.
if battery dead, charge it , does it crank now?
if battery discharges parked this is called parasitic drain.
if starter is dead , with jumper cables that is bad starter or key line.


we can do this 1 step at a time
but you never posted the symptoms.

1. head lamps dead.
2. dash dead.
3. starter dead (will not crank)
4. all above good , engine will not start.

in that order.

new batt if it is over 3 yrs old-needs to always be at 12.6 v--its not holding charge well--have it load tested--probly only gettn a surface charge onit-it will fool u

Fixed Problem (it was my van) no power to ignition wire at starter. Replaced Ignition lock cylinder. just worn down. (Delivery van 50-60 starts a day). 160k miles.

hi it sounds like a sensor may be faulty or getting worn, luckily you dont need equipment to check codes, look under the dash on drivers side and you will see 2 small black plugs close together plug them in with the car off but key on acc and the check light will flash codes, slow then fast. for example if 4 times slow then 2 times fast it means code 42 then just google it for the code meanings

Sounds like your battery is low-- is it the original battery? if so it may be time for a new one.
Try jump starting it yet?

sound like powertrain control module is not powering up everytime

Have you checked the battery voltage. It sound like your battery is almost completely dead. I would check that first.

I can think of 2 possibles,it could be a bad battery cable or an intermitent short in the starter solenoid, check or have the battery cables and there connections on both ends first not only are they a cheaper fix but the problem you describe sounds like a current flow issue.Test them with or have them tested with an ohmmeter they should show o ohms resistance,and while not attributed to the problem I do not reccomend using Bosch spark plugs of any variety,the best plugs for any Japanese vehicle are NGK's,this comes from my personal experience with them and other techs that I have worked with.