Brake bleeding i have no brakes after replacing rear lines and seem to have a steady stream of fluid from all bleeders yet can't get any kind of pedal after pumping it many times i just held the pedal while the bleeders were opened and shut 1st they spit a little air,but after starting from pass.rear,to driver rear pass.front,to driver front, the strangest thing is the fronts worked fine before i started any ideas ?

sounds like one of the bleeder nipples wasn't tightened properly. There's a cool little bleeder kit that has a blocker ball in it so it doesn't allow any air back into the brake line when you go pump the brake pedal until you tighten the nipple.

Your problem could be several things #1 Are you bleeding the brakes properly , start at passenger side rear wheel. Have someone t sit in drivers seat Have them push brake pedal down ,open bleeder.,close bleeder ,have them let brake pedal up . push pedal down again ,you open bleeder again than close bleeder,have brake pedal up continue doing this until a stream of brake fluid without air comes out.( never pump the brake pedal while bleeding) if this is not working after 30 or more cycles you may need to replace your master cylinder. if this was helpful please leave goodback

You will need to bleed the brake system. I would start with the rear brakes lines and work towards the front.You must have key off engine off when bleeding brakes, apply pressure on brake pedal 10 times and hold. The brake line is now ready to be open. Open and let the stream of fluid come out and close the line tight. Then release brake pedal once bleeder screw is close. This procedure must be repeated twice front and back. After, brakes have been bleed pump the brake pedal before putting in drive.
Note: Don't let the resevoir run low on brake fluid. This will cause air bubbles to accumulate on the brake system. Always top off before opening bleeder screw.

AT FIRST GLANCE I WOULD BE LOOKING @ BRAKE FLUID CHECK LEVAL AND REAR WHEEL CYLNDERS MAY BE LEAKING, OR MASTER CYLNDER BYPASSING

if it is the wheel cylinder that is leaking then it will have to be replaced and all the components cleaned with brake cleaner.depending how badly soaked the brake shoes are you may have to replace them also.you may have to heat the brake line that connects to the wheel cylinder,or even replace the line if it gets damaged.the bleed all the air out of the system,

When bleeding a break system have one person pump the breaks around 10 times and hold the pressure to the break peddle while the other person loosens the bleed screw......The peddle will then go to the floor..............Hold to the floor until the bleed screw is tightened again and repeat until no air is in the line............Repeat for all breaks and always check the master cylinder for low fluid level and top up.................Hope this helps you out.

Bleed them again -- one bleed is not always enough.

Try using a pressure bleeder. It will force the air out. Works every time.

No need to run the engine. Start the bleed procedure from the caliper farthest from the master cylinder, and work toward it. This means bleed the passenger rear first, then the driver rear, then passenger front, then driver front. Don't stop bleeding any caliper until you get three or so consecutive streams of air-free fluid through the bleeder. Monitor the level of fluid in the cylinder, and be sure the cap is on while bleeding - only open it to add additional fluid as needed.

Hi rkoontz!

ABSOLUTELY! Have you bled the brake lines since the replacement? If not, bleed the fronts first, with a helper pumping the pedal repeatedly to build pressure, then hold the pedal firmly down while you open the bleeder valve on each front wheel to release captured air mixed with fluid. A section of clear tubing sized to snugly fit over the bleeder valve nipple will allow you to see the air bubbles being released, and will show you when you are getting the bubble-free stream of fluid that you want.
***IMPORTANT*** DO NOT LET UP ON PEDAL until the bleeder valve has been closed --- otherwie air will be sucked back into the system through the bleeder valve if the pedal is released while the bleeder is open... Start on the side where you replaced the front line... make sure the reservoir does not run low on fluid, or you'll end up pumping air back into the lines. Bleed each side twice, alternating sides. You should start getting pedal (i.e.: pedal quits going all the way to floor.) after this. Now go to the rears. Start at the block where the long line from the master cylinder to the rears splits into left and right. With the pedal pumped up and held firmly down, loosen the long line fitting at this block enough to allow fluid and air to escape. Keep repeating until you get steady fluid with no air at the block and then move on to the wheel bleeders, doing each side twice, like the fronts. You should have good solid pedal by now, provided the brakes are close to proper adjustment. The rears are self-adjusting, and (provided the self-adjusters are working properly) you induce self-adjustment by reversing to moderate speed and then firmly braking. Repeat as necessary until the pedal comes up to normal height. If the self-adjusters have failed, you can adjust the shoes the old fashioned way, levering the starwheels behind the backing plates with a brake adjuster tool. ALWAYS keep an eye on the fluid reservoir, and ALWAYS replace the reservoir cover after each top-off (eliminates brake fluid baths of the engine compartment). For good measure, bleed each wheel one more time, top off the reservoir, and you're done!!!

If you cannot get pedal after doing the above, you probably need a replacement master cylinder.

Hope this helps you solve your problem, and do not hesitate to ask if you have further questions or wish to post a comment. And please be so kind as to rate my assitance!

Good luck!
-WildBill