I need a diagram of a 1984 chevy diesel engine. I need to know the size of the engine and the size of the starter housing. It would also be nice to know the frame and engine schematics as well.

1984 a flash back in time and history
only books exited then ,
sorry no CDs, no PDFs just BOOKS made of paper.
so how do you find digital media that never existed??? on a super rare car.
gee I can not guess that,
but book stores comes to mind.

if car was 2000 year yes, but not 1984 those are BOOKS.

so finding the most rare car in the world that was scan by happy owners, what is the chance of that. zero i bet.
and google tells me the same no frisky scanners posted copyright books online, oops.
******* that. but sure if posted in wikileaks it will live forever.

the books you do see are 3rd party, like Haynes publishing. not chevy.
and very expensive as the books too are RARE and out of print.
Clymer , chiltions and haynes, be costly to buy 3 and no chapter on diesel.
the real parts list here covers the diesel

https://www.ebay.com/itm/363775508145?hash=item54b2b5beb1:g:238AAOSw8gFiPNYR

on ebay you can put a search watch that emails you every time a S10 books is posted. that is how I got all mine on older 4wd trucks.

no engine option stated. gas or diesel?
on the engine.
very near the flywheel teeth
very much attached to the bell housing.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable at the battery.
2. Raise the car and support it with jack stands.
3. Remove any starter braces or shields that may be in the way. The exhaust crossover pipe may need to be removed on single exhaust models. Disconnect the wires on the starter if they can be reached.
4. Remove the two starter motor to engine bolts, and allow the starter to drop down, but not hang on the wires.
5. Remove the solenoid wires and battery cable and remove the starter.

look here, see those engines and photos
most are lower left side.
left means, sitting in drivers seat.


http://remanufactured.com/Oldsmobile_engines.htm

According to manuals starter removal is dependent upon the engine type used however I looked at a 1984 Celebrity with 2.8 L X version enigne and both mog my repair manauals which toild me nothnig aobut the fiornt frame of htis vehicle being in the way of the starter mounting bolt nearest the engine hence it appered to me one woulde need to raise the engine if it could be raised enough or remoive the negine., If nyone have remoived thios startewr pelase let me know hw, okay/

Check this diagrams and click over images for zoom...



Fig. 101: 1984 4.1L engine-Federal and high altitude with manual transmission (G10, 20 and 30 models)




Fig. 102: 1984 4.1L engine-Federal and high altitude with manual transmission (G10, 20 and 30 models)




Fig. 103: 1984 4.1L engine-Federal with automatic transmission (G10, 20 and 30 models)




Fig. 104: 1984 4.1L engine-Federal with automatic transmission (G10 and 30 models)

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Fig. 31: Vacuum circuits - 1984 V8 4.1L engine Fed. and High Alt. (DFI)

Fig. 33: Vacuum circuits - 1984 V8 4.1L engine Calif. (DFI)

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Jose.

Generally starters have 2 or 3 bolts and a thick wire coming from the battery and other miscellaneous connections.

You did not specify a vehicle that was on my list, i.e. 1988 Chevy Tahoe.

However, it may be similar to a Suburban R10:
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION The following is a general procedure for all trucks covered in this manual, and may vary slightly depending on model and series.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable at the battery.
2. Raise and support the vehicle.
3. Disconnect and tag all wires at the solenoid terminal. NOTE: Reinstall all nuts as soon as they are removed, since the thread sizes are different.
   
4. Remove the front bracket from the starter and the mounting bolts. On engines with a solenoid heat shield, remove the front bracket upper bolt and detach the bracket from the starter. Fig. 1: Starter mounting location — 4.8L engines
   Fig. 2: Starter mounting location — 4.3L and 5.0L engines
   Fig. 3: Starter mounts — 5.7L and 7.4L engines
   
   
5. Remove the front bracket bolt or nut. Lower the starter, front end first, then remove the unit from the truck. To install:
   
6. Position the starter and tighten all bolts as follows: R/V Series:
   • Thru-bolts: 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm)
   • Bracket bolt: 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm)
   • Nut (gas): 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm)
   • Nut (diesel): 90 inch lbs. (10 Nm)
   C/K Series:
   • Thru-bolts: 35 ft. lbs. (45 Nm)
   • Bracket bolt (diesel): 24 ft. lbs. (33 Nm)
   • Nut (diesel): 75 inch lbs. (8.5 Nm)
7. Reconnect all wires. Fig. 4: Disconnect the negative battery cable
   Fig. 5: Remove the starter retaining bolts
   Fig. 6: Remove the starter from the vehicle
   

go right to autozone and ask them to print it out for you. they will have no problem doing that for you

1984 350 (5.7L) V8 engine—4bbl federal and high altitude with automatic transmission


Let me know a few specifics for an EXACT diagram for you....transmission, carb size, things like that.....you can also email me [email protected] and I can send you more. FREE--NO CHARGE!!!

the 10gauge purple wire on the solenoid should be HOT when starting. could be ignition switch or neutral saftey switch.

I'm not sure if your engine has sensor's in the thermostat housing or not, my trucks didn't have original engines in them but the following should get you running.
The front lower left nipple goes to the distributor. The upper left goes to the vacuum secondary's on your carb. PCV goes to the bottom middle in the front. EGR goes on the front whereever you can plug it in, the same for the air cleaner. The brake booster threads in the bottom at the back. Your kickdown for the trans plugs into the intake at the back of the carb. Block of the rest and you should be on the road. Hope this helps.