Clearance to remove 93 Acura Legend starter

Hi Gayle,here's a Autozone repair guide on replacing your starter,once off,have Autozone test it to see if it's bad,they will need it on a trade in,core.They test it for free,take's only a few minutes. SAVE 20 GET 10 GIFT CARD ON ONLINE SHIP TO HOME ORDERS OF 100 OR MORE Also here's something else to look at.

Starter Cutoff Relay

1993 Acura Legend 3.2L FI 6cyl

The Starter Cutoff Relay is located: Front seating area, driver side, under dash, mounted in fuse block.

No, it is not. Acura, and Honda Harmonic balancers, (the crank pulley), come off fairly easily once unbolted. Sometimes you have to pry on them a little, but I've never had any difficulty removing them.

pick your battles cause your really going to have a ruff time of it. chassis in the way for the most part. you choose best way for you to do it.

most of the time the exhaust crossover pipe has to be removed to gain enough clearance to get to the starter.

Starter REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Fig. 1: If necessary disconnect the exhaust pipe(s) from the manifold(s) for access to the starter assembly Fig. 2: Once disconnected, the pipes should be suspended out of the way using wire or an old coat hanger Fig. 3: Although usually not necessary, the torque converter cover may be removed for additional access Fig. 4: Once the bolts are removed, the cover may be lowered from the transmission Fig. 5: The starter solenoid wiring should be tagged and disconnected Fig. 6: Various sized deep sockets will make disconnecting the wiring much easier Fig. 7: Loosen the start mounting bolts Fig. 8: Support the start and withdraw the bolts Fig. 9: Carefully tilt and lower the starter assembly from the vehicle Fig. 1: Check the gap between the starter pinion and flywheel Fig. 2: Starter motor mounting — V6 (left) engine and diesel (right) engine
Fig. 3: Starter motor mounting — inline six cylinder (top) and V8 engine with solenoid heat shield
Starter noise during cranking and after the engine fires is often a result of too much or tool little distance between the starter pinion gear and the flywheel. A high pitched whine during cranking (before the engine fires) can be caused by the pinion and flywheel being too far apart. Likewise, a whine after the engine starts (as the key is released) is often a result of the pinion-flywheel relationship being too close. In both cases flywheel damage can occur. Shims are available in 0.015 in. sizes to properly adjust the starter on its mount. In order to check and adjust the shims, you will also need a flywheel turning tool, available at most auto parts stores or from any auto tool store or salesperson. If your car's starter emits the above noises, follow the shimming procedure below:

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise and support the vehicle safely using jackstands.
3. Remove the torque converter cover on the bottom of the bell housing.
4. Using the flywheel turning tool, turn the flywheel and examine the flywheel teeth. If damage is evident, the flywheel should be replaced.
5. Insert a screwdriver into the small hole in the bottom of the starter, then move the starter pinion and clutch assembly so the pinion and flywheel teeth mesh. If necessary, rotate the flywheel so that a pinion tooth is directly in the center of the two flywheel teeth and on the centerline of the two gears, as shown in the accompanying illustration.
6. Check the pinion-to-flywheel clearance by using a 0.020 in. wire gauge (a spark plug wire gauge may work here, or you can make your own). Make sure you center the pinion tooth between the flywheel teeth and the gauge — NOT in the corners, as you may get a false reading. If the clearance is under this minimum, shim the starter away from the flywheel by adding shim(s) one at a time to the starter mount. Check clearance after adding each shim.
7. If the clearance is a good deal over 0.020 in. (in the vicinity of a 0.050 in. plug), shim the starter towards the flywheel. Broken or severely mangled flywheel teeth are also a good indicator that the clearance here is too great. Shimming the starter towards the flywheel is done by adding shims to the outboard starter mounting pad only. Check the clearance after each shim is added. A shim of 0.015 in. at this location will decrease the clearance about 0.010 in. Battery and Starter Specifications Chart
   Battery and Starter Specifications Chart (Cont...)
   

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 2.0L SOHC Engine With Automatic Transaxle; 2.4L Engine

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the left strut tower. The ground cable is equipped with a insulator grommet which should be placed on the stud to prevent the negative battery cable from accidentally grounding.
2. Remove the air cleaner resonator.
3. Remove the 3 bolts attaching the Transmission Control Module (TCM). Do not disconnect the TCM wiring. Move the TCM to gain access to the upper starter mounting bolt.
4. Remove the upper starter mounting bolt.
5. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
6. Remove the positive battery cable nut and disconnect the cable from the starter.
7. Disconnect the push-on solenoid connector.
8. Remove the lower mounting bolt that attaches the starter to the transaxle.
9. Remove the starter from the vehicle. Fig. 3: Starter motor wiring terminal connections — 2.0L SOHC engine with A/T; 2.4L engine
   To install:
   
10. Install the starter onto the transaxle and the lower mounting bolt.
11. Tighten the mounting bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). NOTE: Before reconnecting the wiring to the starter solenoid, be sure to clean the wiring of any dirt or corrosion.
    
12. Reconnect the positive battery cable to the solenoid post and tighten the retaining nut to 90 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
13. Reconnect the push-on solenoid connector.
14. Lower the vehicle.
15. Reinstall the upper attaching bolt and torque to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
16. Reinstall the TCM to its original location and install the mounting screws.
17. Reinstall the air cleaner resonator.
18. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

2.5L (VIN N) Engine

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Most vehicles will require the removal of the front exhaust pipe. Use penetrating oil on the fasteners to ease removal.
3. Disconnect the starter motor electrical connections.
4. Remove the starter motor mounting bolts and remove the starter. Fig. 4: Exploded view of the starter motor mounting — 2.5L engine
   To install:
   
5. Clean both surfaces of the starter motor flange and the rear plate. This is important since the starter grounds through its case and the transaxle flange to which it attached. Some remanufactured starters may have paint on these areas which should be cleaned off before installation. Install the starter motor onto the transaxle and secure with the retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to 20–25 ft. lbs. (26–33 Nm).
6. Connect the electrical harness connectors to the starter.
7. Connect the negative battery cable and check the starter for proper operation.

2.5L (VIN H) Engine

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the left strut tower. The ground cable is equipped with an insulator grommet which should be placed on the stud to prevent the negative battery cable from accidentally grounding.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
3. Loosen, but do not remove, the exhaust pipe-to-manifold retaining nuts.
4. Place a drain pan under the oil filter to prevent oil spillage, then remove the oil filter. For additional details, refer to Section 1. Fig. 5: Loosen the exhaust pipe-to-manifold retaining nuts to provide removal clearance for the starter
   Fig. 6: Location of the positive battery cable nut (1) and the push-on solenoid connector (2)
   Fig. 7: After removing the oil filter for access, unfasten the retaining nut and disconnect the positive battery cable
   Fig. 8: Disengage the push-on starter solenoid connector
   
   
5. Remove the positive battery cable retaining nut and battery cable from the starter.
6. Disconnect the push-on solenoid connector.
7. Remove the 3 bolts that attach the starter unit to the transaxle.
8. Pull the exhaust pipe down just enough to provide clearance for the starter motor. The exhaust pipe does not have to be separated from the pipe-to-manifold threaded studs.
9. Remove the starter unit from the vehicle. Fig. 9: Remove the 3 starter motor-to-transaxle housing attaching bolts
   Fig. 10: Pull the exhaust pipe down just enough to provide removal clearance for the starter
   Fig. 11: Carefully remove the starter motor from the vehicle
   To install:
   
10. Install the starter unit onto the transaxle and install the 3 mounting bolts.
11. Tighten the mounting bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). NOTE: Before reconnecting any wiring to the starter solenoid, clean the wire terminals of any dirt or corrosion.
    
12. Reconnect the positive battery terminal and retaining nut to the starter solenoid post. Tighten the retaining nut to 90 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
13. Reconnect the push-on solenoid connector.
14. Reinstall the oil filter.
15. Lower the vehicle.
16. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

Hello! The starter on a 1993 Legend is very well hidden. It is behind the left drive axle.

I'll give you the removal steps to give you a better idea.

Disconnect the wires from the starter motor solenoid...

Unbolt the bracket from the starter motor...

Remove the left drive axle (see chapter 8 in a Haynes repair manual)

Remove the forward section of the exhaust system (chapter 4)

Remove the starter mounting bolts and carefully maneuver the starter motor from under the vehicle.

As you can see this is a very difficult job.

Good luck.

Guru................saailer


I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867

That sounds like a dead battery. The ticking sound is the relay (a type of switch) which enables power to the starter motor when you turn the key. If the battery is weak, the relay will click, but there is not enough power to turn the starter motor.

what is the problem? Clearance, something holding it,? Need to know info!