Try this link and see if it helps. The OEM cap and/or the two "flaps" in the filler neck are allowing air to enter the system, and your car's computer reads it as an "evap" failure thus the Check Engine light and the associated trouble code in the computer.
SOURCE: 1966 mustang engine cranks but wont start
Guide to starting a dead horse!
1- Spray a little starter fluid down the carbuerator. If it tries to fire, your timing and ignition is probably OK. This could indicate a carb or fuel pump problem.
2- If it doesn't fire, check out the points, condenser, coil, distributor cap and rotor. Look for condensation inside the cap. Check that the high tension wire from the coil to distributor is in good shape and not touching the engine or any brackets,etc.
3- Verify that your timing is correct. You may have a timing train problem (Worn or broken).
4- The distributor may have come loose and changed positions. Check for proper timing.
5- It may be a compression problem. If it has set long enough for the oil that coats the cylinder walls to drain down, you won't have enough compression to allow firing. Check your compression and if this seems to be the case, remove the spark plugs and squirt a little Marvel Mystery oil, or similar light weight oil into each cylinder. When it starts, it will smoke for a few minutes, but that will go away.
Hope this helps and if not, get back to me.
Have a super day!
Ron
SOURCE: 2011 check engine light
1st of all never bring it to a dealer--mechanics generally don\'t have experience--they don\'t pay enough for the good guys. It probably needs a new module or sensor-running a data stream with factory tools by a good shop works. And it\'s best to use new parts with electronics.
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