1999 Tracker. Backing out of driveway pushed bracket peddle and front brakes completely locked up rear wheels were spinning. Replaced front calipers all fine. Go to back up now rear brakes are locked up. I'm baffled

Hello uncleel03,

There 3 item to look at:

1. Are the caliper mounting slide pins free and lubricated?
If not, the pins and bracket s need to be cleaned and lubricated.

2. Was a new hardware kit installed on a clean caliper mounting bracket and do the brake pad move freely in the bracket?
If not, the bracket needs to be cleaned and all rust removed from where the hardware kits attaches to the bracket.

3. Did the pistons in the calipers compress easily?
If not the caliper may need to be replaced. I say "may" because a bad brake hose can cause resistance when compressing the caliper so you will need to isolate the cause of the resistance.

Testing:

Safely lift and support the vehicle.

Have an assistant press and hold the brake peddle while you try to turn the wheel; as you are trying to turn the wheel have the assistant release the brake peddle, the brake should release immediately and the wheel should turn freely if not there is a problem with ether the caliper or brake hose.

To determine where the fault is you will need to remove the tire and have your assistant apply and release the brake. If the brake remains engaged open the bleeder if the brake releases the brake hose is the problem and needs to be replaced, if not the caliper needs to be replaced.

Repeat this procedure on the other side to determine it's integrity.

Of course you will need to bleed the brakes after these tests and after the new parts are installed before you can drive the vehicle.

I hope this help.

Regards,
netvan

Unless you have a leak in the brake system the only reason your brake fluid level master cylinder would be empty is that your brake pads are worn out. As they wear the fluid level goes down. You need to check for a leak at all 4 wheels and the complete system. If you find no leak then inspect all brake pads and replace as necessary. I would also bleed the brakes as you let the fluid get very low. More than likely a new set of brake pads will solve your problem. The only thing that is suspicious is the clunk you heard. Make sure a trusted mechanic gives your brake system a good inspection. It can be very dangerous if your brakes fail.

Brake Pads Removal & Installation Front

To Remove:

1. Drain brake fluid to ½ full level in reservoir.
2. Remove the front wheels.
   
   
3. Remove the front brake caliper assembly.
4. Remove the 2 anti-squeal shims from each of the 2 brake pads.
5. Remove the wear indicator from each of the 2 brake pads.

To Install:
NOTE: When replacing worn pads, the anti-squeal shims must be replaced together with the pads.

1. Using a large C clamp or equivalent press piston into the caliper.
2. Apply disc brake grease to the inside of each anti-squeal shim.
3. Install the anti-squeal shims on each pad.
4. Install the pad wear indicator clip to the pads.
5. Install the pads with the pad wear indicator plate facing upward.
6. Install the brake caliper with the 2 mounting bolts. Torque the bolts 25 ft-lb (34 Nm).
7. Install the front wheels.
8. Fill the master cylinder with new clean brake fluid.
9. Pump the brake pedal several times to seat the brake pads.

Rear TMC made rear brake components

TMMK made rear brake components

To Remove:

1. Drain the brake fluid to ½ full level in reservoir.
2. Remove the rear wheels.
3. Remove the caliper slide pins.
4. Remove the caliper slide pin bushings (TMMK made) (Kentucky).
5. Remove the rear brake calipers.
6. Remove the 2 brake pads with the anti-squeal shims.
7. Remove the anti-squeal shims and pad wear indicators from brake pads.

To Install:

1. Using a large C clamp or equivalent press the piston into the caliper.
2. Coat both sides of the outer anti-squeal shim with pad grease.
3. Install anti-squeal shims to each pad.
4. Install wear indicators on the 2 brake pads.
5. Install the caliper slide pin bushings (TMMK made) (Kentucky).
6. Install the rear brake caliper with the slide pins. Torque the slide pins as follows:
   • TMC made (Japan): Torque the caliper slide pin 25 ft-lb (34.3 Nm)
   • TMMK made (Kentucky): Torque the caliper slide pin 34 ft-lb (47 Nm)
7. Fill the master cylinder with new clean brake fluid.
8. Pump the brake pedal several times to seat the brake pads.
9. Install the rear wheels.

Brake Rotor Removal & Installation Front To Remove:

1. Remove the front wheels.
2. Remove the front brake caliper assembly.
3. Remove the front brake pads.
4. Remove the 2 bolts and caliper mounting bracket.
5. Place match marks on the disc and axle hub.
6. Remove the front wheel disc.

To Install:

1. Align the match marks and install the front disc.
2. Install the brake caliper mounting bracket. Torque the bolts 79 ft-lb (107 Nm).
3. Install the brake caliper. Torque the bolts 25 ft-lb (34 Nm).
4. Install new gaskets and connect the brake hose to the caliper with the banjo fitting bolt. Torque the fitting bolt 22 ft-lb (29.4 Nm).
5. Fill the reservoir with brake fluid.
6. Bleed the brake system.
7. Install the front wheel.

Rear To Remove:

1. Remove the rear wheels.
2. Remove the brake caliper assembly.
3. Remove the brake pads.
4. Remove the 2 bolts and the caliper mounting bracket.
5. Place match marks on the disc and axle hub.
6. Remove the rear disc.

To Install:

1. Align the match marks and install the rear disc.
2. Install the rear brake caliper mounting bracket. Torque the bracket bolts as follows:
   • TMC made (Japan): Torque the bracket bolt 46 ft-lb (61.8 Nm)
   • TMMK made (Kentucky): Torque the bracket bolt 34 ft-lb (47 Nm)
3. Install the rear brake caliper with the slide pins. Torque the slide pins as follows:
   • TMC made (Japan): Torque the caliper slide pin 25 ft-lb (34.3 Nm)
   • TMMK made (Kentucky): Torque the caliper slide pin 32 ft-lb (43 Nm)
4. Install new gaskets and connect the brake hose to the caliper with the banjo fitting bolt. Torque the fitting bolt 22 ft-lb (29.4 Nm).
5. Fill the reservoir with brake fluid.
6. Bleed the brake system.
7. Install the rear wheel

if both front wheels are dragging it is probably the master cylinder, if only one wheel is dragging it could be the caliper or the brake hose, jack the car up and have some one apply the brakes and try to turn the wheel the instant the brake peddle is released both wheels should start turning the instant the peddle is released....hope this helps

here is the procedure from autozone.com. there are no special tools, but you need to be handy. Judge for yourself.

Removal & Installation

1. Raise and safely support the rear wheels.
2. On Front Wheel Drive models, remove the heat shield above the exhaust in the center tunnel.
3. Locate the threaded adjusters. On All Wheel Drive (AWD) models, they are located in the front of the lower control arms, on Front Wheel Drive (FWD) vehicles, they are located in the tunnel on the underbody of the vehicle.
4. Remove the locking clip between the hex nut and the adjustment housing.
5. Counter hold the hex nut with a 13mm wrench and thread the adjustment housing to loosen the cable until the adjustment housing is fully loosened, then slide the 2 portions of the cable toward one another.
6. Remove the lock clip at the brake caliper and remove the cable, taking care to not damage the cable boot.
7. On Front Wheel Drive models, remove the heat shield above the muffler and push aside.
8. Remove the cables from the cable brackets. Should the assembly aid fall out it is not necessary to reinstall it.
9. Using a suitable flat blade screwdriver, remove the cables from the retaining bracket at the under body tunnel where the cables enter the interior of the vehicle.
10. Remove the rear portion of the center console, then using a suitable flat blade screwdriver, push the cables toward the parking brake lever and press the cable ball end out of the bracket.
11. From under the vehicle, press the guide sleeve-locking element together and pull the cables out of the guide sleeve.

To install:

1. Guide the parking brake cables through until the guide sleeve locks into place.
2. If not previously removed, remove any plastic parts at the hand brake lever adjustment bracket as they are not needed for installation.
3. Using a No. 2 flat-blade screwdriver, lock the adjustment bracket at the hand brake lever to prevent it from turning.
4. Insert the cable end ball through the mounting in the adjustment bracket, making sure the cable locks into place in the bracket.
5. Working under the vehicle, route the cables through their routing brackets and attach them to the brake caliper.
6. The balance of installation is in reverse order of removal noting the following:
7. Adjust the parking brake cable and check its operation.

Disc Brakes

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
2. Release the parking brake. It may be necessary to unscrew the adjusting nuts to provide slack in the brake cable.
3. At each rear wheel brake caliper, remove the spring clip retaining the parking brake cable to the caliper.
4. Lift the cable from the caliper mount and disengage it from the parking brake lever.
5. Pull the cables out from under the vehicle.
6. Installation is the reverse of removal.
7. Adjust the parking brake as described at the beginning of this section.

Drum Brakes

1. Block the front wheels and release the hand brake.
2. Raise and safely support the rear of the vehicle.
3. Remove the rear brake shoes.
4. Remove the brake cable assembly from the back plates.
5. Remove the cable adjusting nuts at the handle and detach the cable guides from the floor pan.
6. Pull the cables out from under the vehicle.
7. Installation is the reverse of removal. Adjust the parking brake and road test the vehicle.

Hub & Bearing 3.8L engine Removal & Installation To Remove:
Hub and bearing assembly mounting

All W-body cars are equipped with sealed hub and bearing assemblies. The hub and bearing assemblies are not serviceable. If the assembly is damaged, the complete unit must be replaced.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle with jackstands.
3. Remove the rear wheel and tire assembly.
4. If equipped with rear disc brakes, remove the caliper, bracket and rotor.
5. If equipped with rear drum brakes, remove the brake hose bracket and drum.
6. If equipped, detach the ABS electrical harness.
7. Unfasten the four hub/bearing-to-knuckle attaching bolts, then remove the hub/bearing assembly.

To Install:

1. Install the hub/bearing assembly onto the knuckle. Install the four attaching bolts and tighten to 52 ft. lbs. (70 Nm).
2. If equipped attach the ABS electrical harness.
3. Install the rotor, caliper and bracket or drum and bracket, as applicable.
4. Install the wheel and tire assembly.
5. Carefully lower the vehicle.
6. Connect the negative battery cable.

When was the last time the brake fluid was flushed? Spongy/unresponsive brakes can sometimes be due to moisture/air in the brake lines. You can take the wheel off and get someone to push the brake peddle and see if the brake caliper is moving at all. If it is moving, but not enough to stop the wheel, I'd recommend flushing the brake fluid. If the caliper is not moving at all, it could be the caliper itself (but its very unlikely that both would go bad at the same time)

You have a proportioning valve stuck. From the master the brake lines will run down the wheel well to another valve then out to the front calipers and rears when the prop valve sticks or freezes it then causes the rear or front system to lock up or not proportion the system evenly. 2. If that is not the case you may have contamination in the lines or the rubber brake hoses whick allow fluid to pass through it will not allow it to return almost acting like a back check valve therefore keeping you brakes on.

OK! Front brakes not releases all the way; bad calipers or rotten insides on your flex lines (acting as a check valve holding some pressure). Rear- replace hardware and wheel cylinder,( make sure the smaller shoe is on the front halve of backing plate or it will catch and lockup.)

hello rule of thumb never push pistons back on calipers without master cyl cover off pressure blows seal out on mastercylinder what you need do is from the firthest wheel pass rear bleed first then drivers rear then pass front to drivers side to mastercyl lines rear to front sounds like trapped air in proportioning valve with two people pump pedal up 3-4 hold take cover off master watch brake fluid take foot off brake pedal quick watch for air bubbles or small geiser like movement you need to work the air out reinstall cap repeat again if needed there shouldnt be any ripples when the peddle is let go if rear calipers have built in emergency brakes use emergency brake to wind caliper piston a few times goodluck