Changing Front Rotors

if you have a vibration only while braking and only in the steering wheel then you have warped front rotors causing the problem. there was a time when you could have the rotors turned and reused. but the way they make rotors now(too thin to start with) you will have to replace them, make sure the wheel nuts are torque to spec.

You go to You Tube Video & watch that

You Tube Video & Google- are all you need
for any vehicle question

front brake rotor retaining screw 85-130 inch LBS......lug nuts 67-85 ft. LBS.....front caliper guide bolt

take tire off, remove the two bolts on the back side of the brake caliper, remove brake caliper(with a coat hanger/stiff wire suspend caliper for it does not strain the brake line, remove rotor. Hope this helps Tim

jack up the car, first break lugs, and remove tire. There are two bolts on the front back side, if it like are endeavor then I compressed the caliper piston and then I had to take apart the caliper as the old pads did not come out, those are the two bolts on each end. then put back on. Once the caliper is off the rotor will come off as it is held on by the caliper. Just be careful with the caliper once it is removed as it is a brake line, you can use a hanger for it does not pull on the line when it is off the rotor. Good Luck Tim

How to replace the rear brake pads on a 1995 through 2001 Ford Explorer The system utilizes a drum-in-hat type rear brake rotor. The integral drum allows the use of a drum-and-shoe type parking brake system. All other components are similar to their front disc brake components Remove the two bolts on either side of the brake hose with the rubber boots. Do not remove the four bolts where the axle ties in. The two bolts to be removed require a 10mm socket/wrench. Loosen the pads from the caliper Rotor Removal In order to take the rotors off (replace with new or have them machined), it is best to loosen the emergency brake shoes. To do this, behind the rotors, in the back there is a rubber plug, remove that and you can use a screw driver to engage the teeth of the adjusting screw, turn it clockwise to loosen, usually 10-20 teeth. Usually this means turn it downward. After this, it may still be difficult to get the rotors off without tapping them. Use a rubber mallet and hit them from behind. Before really whacking the rotor, make sure you have loosened the adjusting screw enough. It may take heavy swings of the rubber hammer to do this. It will eventually break loose. Parking Brake You might want to check the parking brake while you are here. To remove:

• Remove the rear disc brake rotor.

• Remove the outboard return spring.

• Remove the adjusting screw spring.

• Remove the rear brake shoe hold-down spring and pin.

• Remove the brake shoe adjusting screw and nut.

• Remove the front brake shoe hold-down spring and pin.

• Remove both parking brake shoes and the inboard return spring.

• Check the parking brake lever for excessive wear and replace as necessary.

To install:

• Position the front parking brake shoe to the backing plate and install the hold-down pin and spring.

• Install the rear parking brake shoe with the inboard return spring.

• Position the brake shoe adjuster screw and nut on the shoes and install the rear shoe hold-down pin and spring.

• Install the brake shoe adjuster spring.

• Install the outboard return spring.

• Adjust the parking brake shoes and install the rotor, caliper and wheel.

• Lower the vehicle and tighten the wheel lug nuts to 100 ft. lbs. (135 Nm).

ADJUSTMENT

• Measure the inside of the drum portion of the rear brake rotor

• Remove the rear disc brake rotor.

• Using Brake Adjustment Gauge D81L-1103-A or equivalent, measure the inside diameter of the drum portion of the rear disc brake rotor.

• Subtract 0.020 in. (0.508mm) from the first measurement, adjust the brake shoes to that size

• Adjust the parking brake adjuster screw until the outside diameter of the parking brake shoes measures 0.020 in. (0.508mm) less than the drum measurement.

• Install the rear disc brake rotor.

Reassembly Reassembly is easy. Put new or machined rotors back on by sliding them over the lugs (they should slide on easily.) Loosen bleeder valve (having a catch bottle handy is good). Push calipers in slowly (using a c-clamp or large channel lock pliers), close bleeder valve. Put on pads. Lubricate metal clips with small amount of anti-seize. Re-adjust the emergency brake by turning the opposite direction from loosening. Refill the brake master cylinder

Here's an exploded view, you'll need to pop off the grease cap #6 then remove the snap ring #8 to get the hub off to get the rotor off. Hope it is of some help...pictures always are.

Your rotors have an integrated hub with serviceable bearing.

Remove the six bolts around the center of the hub and pry off the grease cover.

behind it you will find a locking wheel with two philips screws holding it in position. Remove the screws and unscrew the locking wheel.

Behind is a large axle locknut that requires a special tool to remove. It has two small holes to grip with. Unscrew it and you will be able to remove the outer bearing, then slide the rotor off the spindle/axle.

From there you can unbolt the rotor disc from the hub backside, or replace the whole unit. Replacing the whole unit will require installing new bearings/races, however.

Either method will require repacking the bearings and loading the bearings with the special locknut tool.

it is easy to change even you can change it your just going to take off the front wheel then you will see the break panel there's a bolt holding the break pad loose it so can pull the break pad out... or more or less even a driveway mechanic can do this for less cost...

the first thing i will recomend you, is ti buy the new rotors first,
sisnce you did not mention if you allready have the new ones
and see if they are slide out type rotorss or one piece rotor assy
with the lugn nuts, sometimes they just slide out but sometimes you need to remove the center big nut in order to remove them.