It's look to me . fuel are going in catalyst converter by one or more cylinder not firing. that's why the catalyst converter going red it's like a stove that burn fuel.and air.
Testimonial: "it has new plugs and wires and everything.didnt notice the catalyst until after.i gutted the catalyst to see if that would help so still no change but it is hard to start and will not hardly ilde.there is another sensor past the catalyst and before the muffler which it has burnt the wiring to it got so hot.is that an o2 sensor also.chevy is not my specialty lol.but I assume its an o2 also could this were its malfunctioning from the heat be a bigpart of the problem?the check engine light is on now also as before this breakdown was not and car ran fine.theres something wrong somewhere its a matter of running it down and I appreciate all the help I can get from everyone.i wont quit tho till I find the problem but all help is more than welcome from any and all. and thanks.should I run the car a bit again and pull the plugs to see if there drowned in fuel?because it does sound like its running dead on some cylinders but its getting fire to all.if you hold the gas pedal down some it trys to hit and miss like trying to straighten out but never does.if you or anyone has any suggestions to what I should try please advise Im open to all help.thanks david"
do not understand what could be wrong has good compression and i cut out of the catalyst just incase it was plugged up and welded it back together.but i have not fixed the 02 sensor behind it the catalyst yet got to pull the aluminum cover that cover the harness to it first.but would this sensor make it run really ruff and like its smothering to death and idle ruff and sometimes no idle you can hold the throttle down midways and it opens up and sound like it wont to sraighten outbut does not.from gaskets to plugs and wires are new on top.oingto recheck all the cylinders and plugs again to see if all getting fire.question i put some antizeis on the ends of the plugs so they would not be so hard to pull off at a later time could this be messing with the firing and making them miss fire?any help guys and ladies deeply appreciated,if you need any further info to help just let me know and i will answer it to be i can.whats so funny is before car was tore down to replace the head and intake gaskets the car ran fine except for the over heating so at witts end but never give up THANKS ALL HELP WELCOME
the spark is made with power and ground. the stuff (antizeis) you cut at lower voltage inside cylinder.the spark plug have to be well grounded. I suggest you clean very good spark plug tread.......spark plug fire has to be check with HEI TESTER . because the output of this tester is 25kvolts if no spark then you need to find out why.
thanks denis houle for the help i agree with you i do need to clean the antizeis from the spark plugs and the plug wires.this very well could be the problem because i wasnt thinking about the atizeis cutting down the grounding fo the plugs.the only thing i was thinking at the time of installing new plugs and wires was not to have the same problem removing this set of wires from the plugs as i did the current old ones.i will go and do this and send you feed back on what i find out.thanks again for the help
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SOURCE: Engine Bolt Torques- 2005 Chevy Impala/3400 Engine
Head Bolts
Step one 37 ft lbs then tignten 120 degrees more
Rocker arms
Step one 11 ft lbs then tighten 90 degresss more
Upper intake
89 inch lbs
Lower intake
132 inch lbs
SOURCE: 95 GMC Jimmy 4.3l W vin rough idle
My problem was solved when I repaired my 4 wd activation dash switch. The switch was contacting on 2WD & 4HI at the same time. The front differential activation is vacuum activated possibly creating a tug of war that didn't actually engage it but drained off vacuum from the engine? A theory at best but stumbbled across it because I knew the switch wasn't working properly I repaired it and low and behold rough idle disappeared and all is good for 3 weeks running.
SOURCE: I have 95 Chevy Lumina. March 2010 I had water
Was the car over heating before the water pump and head gaskets were replaced? Putting in a new Radiator will make it run even colder.and take even way longer than the one hour it is already taking to warm up.The computer in the car commands the engine cooling fan On/Of at a predetermined temperature.It receives this data from monitoring engine sensors such as the engine coolant temperature sensor.So if it is defective and the computer is not recognising the defect it thinks that the engine is running hot when it is realy running cold and will command that the cooling fan be on.Resulting in the fan running in 24-7 as you put it. If you want the engine to warm up faster and the cooling fan to operate normaly then I would replace the engine coolant temperature sensor and the relay for the fan circuit as well. If you need to talk to me further about this you can use the reply box below. Please let me know how this goes for you and I hope this is usefull for you. Good Luck and have a good XMASS.
Instructions
1. Removal
Unscrew the bolt that holds the negative connection to the Impala's
battery. Set this bolt aside for later use.
Remove the engine cover to access the intake manifold and manifold
gasket. Disconnect the throttle body inlet duct from the engine.
Twist off the radiator cap to allow draining of the coolant to flow more
smoothly. Place an empty container beneath the radiator's drain plug, and
remove this plug. Allow all of the engine coolant to drain into the empty
container. Replace the drain plug once you are finished.
Tag all of the electrical wiring and hoses before removing so that
reconnection is precise to factory settings. Remove these parts, individually,
from the intake manifold.
Loosen the bolts that hold the intake manifold to the Impala's engine
block. Lift the intake manifold from the block once all bolts have been
completely removed.
Use the flat-head screwdriver to pry the old intake manifold gasket from
the engine block. Discard this part once you have removed it.
Clean the engine block thoroughly with the engine degreaser and linen
cloth. If necessary, use a gasket scraper to remove excess buildup and grime.
2. Installation
Place the old intake manifold on top of the newly-installed manifold
gasket until it aligns with all of the holes of the cylinder flanges and
manifold gasket.
Attach all of the bolts with your hand to the manifold. Once all bolts
have been positioned, use a torque wrench and apply 15 foot-pounds of pressure
to the bolts to secure the manifold into place.
Reconnect all of the necessary hoses and electrical wiring to the
intake. Pour the engine coolant back into the radiator.
Reattach the engine cover on top of the intake manifold and engine
block. Start the Impala's engine and check for any leaks around the new intake
manifold gasket.
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HAVE YOU TRIED CHANGING THE MASS AIRFLOW SENSOR. DISCONNECT IT AND RUN THE CAR. IF IT IS BETTER, THEN THATS THE PROBLEM
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