Ignition switch fuse terminal is blowing red 40 amp fuse when i try to replace it

hi there.
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2001 suzuki lt300 20 amp fuse blows Google Search

You have a short to ground on that circuit , find a wiring diagram an see what all is on that fuse . So far I see the ignition switch an starter relay ! Does it blow right away when you replace it or do you have to turn on the ignition switch ?

Blowing fuses is never an easy direct fix. Its rather a hunt needs some dedication. What I try and do is Figure out what is all on this 40 amp fuse, and one at a time remove something from the system and see if it blows. The key is knowing when it will blow for these tests to work. Keep removing what ever is on the system until it stops blowing a fuse. Then figure out how to single out items on that fuse. Whatever fuse it is the problem is on its path. Check all paths that go to items if no items are easily singles out. Replace as you find ,smash, green corrosion and shady connecters. Looks for heat by finding melted plastic connecters. These are clues. If you have a volt meter, then you will find the problem a whole lot easy, by figuring out what OHMS LAw is for whatever guage wire you are working with and a rough guess on length of known path. Using this you can find smashed and corroded wires quicker. As well as finding a short to ground and even short to powers in some cases. Good luck :)

It will help if you can identify the 40 Amp fuse that is being toasted when the key is turned.

I looked briefly at a fusebox diagram and found 3 circuits protected by a 40 Amp fuse. The Lamp circuit protects several circuits which have smaller rated fuses on each separate wire. The 40 Amp protection seems to be a safeguard if all the smaller circuits are active in total. Turning off the automatic headlights, should reduce power drain.

The next circuit is the Rear window defroster. Can easily pull 40 Amps, but once the 40 Amp fuse breaks, it should have no effect on the engine.

The last circuit, on the cars with Trailer Tow or Police package has a
40 Amp fuse on the Battery charge Relay. This is a remote possibility. But the engine should be able to run without an Alternator for several minutes using Battery power.

Have them check the fuel pressure. The Inertia switch could have tripped while the car was being repaired. It does not explain the wiring short, but can explain the no start condition.

Again, if the same 40 Amp circuit is overloading, identify the circuit with the fuse box diagram.

Since most of the circuits are handled by the key switch, you'll have to disconnect a few fuses and relays to find the overload.

( one question i have is every time the ignition fuse blows do i need to replace the starter relay? ) NO ! You have a dead short to ground on one of the circuits that fuse feeds. Do you know how to find a short circuit ? Video's on youtube show how. The fuse that blows ,is it IGN - A 40 amp. located in the under hood fuse/ relay center ? That fuse feeds B+ voltage to the ignition switch ,which powers up other thing's ,fuse's etc.. Not just the starter relay ! I see five other fuse's that get power from that fuse when ignition switch is in the start or run position . In the I/P fuse panel the gauges fuse #4 10amp , air bag fuse #10 10amp , turn b/u fuse #16 20amp. , Plus trans fuse #20 10 amp ! Pull out these fuse an try to start the van. if the ignition fuse doesn't blow the problem is in one of these other fuse circuits. There is one more fuse that get's B+ power from the ignition switch and ign A fuse ,crank fuse fuse #8 10amp. this powers the control side of the starter relay .
You can find a free wiring diagram here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter vehicle info. year , make , model and engine . Under system click engine , under subsystem click starting. Click the search button then the blue link.
If you pull those fuse's i mention and it still blows the fuse look for a shorted ignition switch or wiring from ignition to the starter relay , not the relay itself. Park neutral safety switch . Isolate the circuit , pull the relay out of it's socket ,pull the crank fuse #8 in the I/P fuse box. with a ohm meter check to see if that part of the circuit is shorted to ground. Do you know how to do that ? Do you have a volt ohm meter ? You can buy one cheap at parts store .

The BLUE/RED wire from your ignition switch provides power to your cigarette lighter and your radio via the 15 Amp "CIG" fuse and the 7.5 Amp "RADIO" fuse in the fuse block under the left end of the dash in the kick panel.

However, this wire will not have any power with the ignition switch removed and therefore would not have been able to blow any fuses with the switch removed. The two fuses that the BLUE/RED wire go to will also not cause your engine to not start.

If your radio does not work and your engine does not start, you probably accidently grounded the WHITE wire. This is one of the TWO power wires going INTO the ignition switch. The other power wire is the BLACK/RED.
The WHITE wire gets power from the 40 Amp "AM1" fuse and the BLACK/RED wire gets power from the 30 Amp "AM2" fuse. Both of these fuses are located in the F.1 fusable link box in the engine compartment at the battery.

The 40 amp maxi fuse in the underhood junction block (According to the information I have, there is only one 40 amp fuse in there..) goes directly to the ignition switch. From there, it goes to the buss bar in the Instrument Panel Fuse Block where it feeds several smaller fuses. It also feeds the starter relay in the Underhood Fuse and Relay Center.

My biggest concern would be: What caused the fuse to blow in the first place?

If you get nothing else from my preaching, get this:

Fuses don't blow for no reason....ESPECIALLY not a 40-amp Maxi Fuse!

I can't count how many times I have heard people say: "It's JUST a blown fuse." WHAT???

I have been at this for 35 years and I can tell you that blown fuses are reason for major concern in my book. That 40-Amp Maxi Fuse just saved your truck from burning to the ground and you need to find out why!

The only way that fuse is going to blow is if there is a direct short to ground between the Underhood Fuse and Relay Center and the Instrument Panel Fuse Block (The only "component" between these two is the ignition switch.) or if the secondary side of the starter relay circuit is shorted to ground. The secondary side of the starter relay feeds the "S" terminal of the starter solenoid. (at the starter)

I think the first place I would look for the problem would be the circuit between the starter relay and the starter. It is likely to be shorted against the exhaust or engine block. If this is the case, it most likely fried the starter relay in the process. (which is why the fuse no longer blows and the engine no longer starts)

Aftermarket remote starting units are also usually tied into this circuit. If your vehicle has one of these, it could very likely be the original source of your problem.

At any rate, there should be no rest, truck running or not, until the reason for the blown fuse is found. You will most likely get the truck running in the process of locating the reason for the blown fuse.

relays are normally in the fuse panel on the left side of dash by knee.

Fuses and Circuit Breakers Location and Values
NOTE: The headlamp switch (11654) has an integral 20-amp circuit breaker.

• The combination instrument panel fuse and circuit breaker panel contains most of the fuses and circuit breakers used in the system.
• The fuses and circuit breakers are color-coded by amp rating.
• The locations and values of the fuses and circuit breakers not contained in the panels are shown in the following chart.

Circuit Circuit Protection and Rating Location Headlamps and High Beam Indicator 20 Amp. CB Integral with Lighting Switch Heated Back Window 16 GA Fuse Link Engine Compartment Power Windows, Power Seat, Power Door Locks 20 Amp. CB Starter Motor Relay Load Circuit Fuse Link In Harness Engine Compartment Lamp Fuse Link In Harness Convertible Top 25 Amp. CB Lower Instrument Panel-Reinforcement



Cavity Number Fuse Rating Color Circuit Protected A 40 Amp Orange

• Ignition Switch

B 40 Amp Orange

• Ignition Switch

C 40 Amp Orange

• Ignition Switch

D 50 Amp Red

• Headlamp Switch
• Instrument Panel Fuses 4, 8 and 16
• Instrument Panel Circuit Breaker 12

E 20 Amp Light Green

• PCM
• Fuel Pump
• HO2S (3.8L)
• Canister Purge Solenoid
• EVR Solenoid
• Ignition Control Module (3.8L)
• IAC Solenoid
• Fuel Injector
• Automatic Transmission
• Camshaft Position Sensor (3.8L)
• MAF Sensor

F 40 Amp Orange

• Heated Back Window

G 20 Amp Yellow

• Fuel Pump

H 60 Amp Blue

• Fan Control

J — — Not Used K 10 Amp Blue

• Anti-Lock Brake Control Module

L 20 Amp Red

• Fan Control Monitor (PCM)

M 25 Amp Yellow

• Horn
• Foglamps
• Daytime Running Lights Control Module

N 25 Amp Clear

• Fuses 5 and 9

P 20 Amp Clear

• Radio Amplifier

Q 20 Amp Yellow

• Generator

S 30 Amp Yellow

• Convertible Top Motor

T 60 Amp —

• ABS

I'm sure there's a short somewhere, but I can't find it. I've even replaced the starter and it is still doing it..???????
The wiring that fuse protects is shorted to ground ! You don't know how to find a short ? Your best bet ,take it to a shop that can .
Finding The Source Of Electrical Shorts In Your Car