I connect the battery and the fan for the rad stays on the dash like the green lights like the ones that control the ac/heat and how fast your going come on and off when the battery is connected and it does not turn over and all this stuff happends with out the keys in the keys in the ignition

overheating? has many causes., if IS?
yes with A/C ON sure.
sure going fast the radiator cools better (higher gears)
OVERHEATING SIGNS ARE WHAT;
BOIL OVER? OR JUST DASH GAUGE TOo HIGH?
coolant leaks to ground or to front passengers toes?
5 year old hemostat should be good
fans kick on , at rear of radiator or are they dead?
off hand blind and deaf, the fans failing, on this 2017 car.
check fuses yet?
scan the PCm for fan errors or?
more causes
1: dead bugs plastered to radiator or front AC condenser. (back blast it with water hose nozzle)
new RAD do check condenser, same fix, cleaned.
2; belt slipping to water pump.
3: water pump impeller rusted to 1/2 its normal size
4; fans fail.

if the scan tool ECT sensors show 180f to 200f it is not overheating
what are you talking about.
blower dash fan.
engine RAD fans < guess only this.
or front AC condenser fans.
overheats parked
overheats driving yes or now fast?
oveheats only AC on, none of this told an matters HUGE.
learn to use a scan tool?
you can not fix any modern car lacking one. $100 buy one.
here are the proofs of over heating. al or most.!!!
dash gauge pegs, see that can be coolant low, easy no>?
scan ECT shows temps way over 200F, 265 is boiling point.
coolant on the ground AF 50% green,yellow orange pink what eva.
coolant on the passengers toes(foot well heater core leaks)
coolant in oil pan , and dip stick end drips, chocolate milk.
engine pings, or under load (hills) dont let it. pings is too hot. or dead EGR.
huge engine power loss from ping. (and lots more)
engine guts make huge nasty metallic sounds. bad that. check oil levels.
dash gauge engine heat PEGs , can mean overheating.
dash gauge tad high is normal. z(operators guide said so)

the service manual tells you clear as day what temps trip the fans on if you just RTM/ 214 to 220f , if ECT show that the fans run in that range and lacking a scan tool you will NEVER KNOW IT.
'the dash gauges is NOT and instrument it is a just a crude, toy gauge, the ECT is what matters period. or IR thermal gun pointed to thermostat housing then to top and bottom RAD tanks,


this magic tool and skills I can find dead RAD tubes in 1min flat
love mine, Have 2.

shows 170 here, or 180f if drive 5 miles. your car is 200f stat
a parting shot
no 19 year old thermostat run that long.
the top usa maker claims a 7 year design life
I bet yours is bad. as the wax pellet ages in it ,it shrinks and the TEMPS go way way too high, or are sluggish.
seen it vast times and is frankly normal service.

Is a strange one. fan sound could be the thermal switch for the fan has failed but it could be the cooling fan. (front rad). as for the languages it could be an internal fault can be sorted sometimes by removing the battery. also if it is the internal fan it could be it need resetting. with the battery off for awhile this can sometimes sort this out to. usually caused by alternator spike. when the volts from the alternator jump to a higher voltages water or ice can do this. happen more and mor on computer controlled equipment.

Check te fuel pressure regulator

FAN RELAY

Chevy dealer says will not come on until temperature reaches 219 f

Things that keep the fans on

First, check fuses. On top of the battery there is a fuse block. The 1st green fuse on the left is for fan operation. Take it out, check it for heat damage. A lot of times the fuse won't blow, but there will be heat damage to the fuse and holder. If there's damage, you have had an high current draw and the relay might be stuck or the fan(s) are binding.
While we are there, with the fuse out spin the fans by hand and see if they do anything but spin free. If binding, replace the fan. A high draw from a binding fan will burn out new components in the same way.
With the fuse back in, check the fuse panel on the drivers' side of the dash. One at a time pull fuse #5, #16 and #25 and check them. If one of them blows, the fans can run unexpectedly.
Still running?

A/C- If your a/c button is on, this would keep the fans on always. Turn off the climate control system, make sure the A/C switch is off too.
Still running? Go under the hood and unplug the A/C pressure switch. It's on an A/C line just before it enters the cabin. If you unplug it and the fans stop this is your issue.
Still running?

Next would to unplug the rad. thermo. switch. It's on the drivers side of the radiator about a foot down from the upper rad hose. It screws into the radiator and has a triangular connecter. Unplug it. If the fans go off, this is your issue.
Still running?

After you are SURE everything else checks out, last cause would be to replace the fan control module. It's the block right next to the thermo switch you just fooled with, the connecter is facing up.






a bad coolant temp sensor might do this too

i guess you are asking how to install it
here is how it works
first of all dont buy cheap things.im glad you bought this
here are the steps

Disconnect positive battery terminal.

Drain engine coolant.

Remove engine mounts (2) from van frame and flip them over backwards.

Remove the hood latch (leave cable connected)

Remove the two bars that connects the frame to the inside fender.

Remove the engine coolant overflow tank

remove air filter cover and filter and accordian hose

Remove upper and lower rad hoses

remove the two brackets that holds the rad

remove the two bolts that holds the fan assembly to the rad (one each end)

unplug fan plug

unhook lines from bracket at bottom of fan assembly.

remove fan assembly.

remove bolts from ac lines to condenser.

remove bracket that holds ac lines to rad (I think it's the rad)
lift rad upwards and away from frame enough to lift condenser out.

hope it helps-

CHECK YOUR SPEED FAN RELAY ONE SIDE IS FOR YOUR AIR CONDITIONING YOU HAVE HI AND LOW RELAYS

Have the cooling system pressure tested. If it holds pressure, that's a good thing. If it doesn't hold pressure, you may have a leaking head gasket. What may be happening is the crack in the head gasket could be blowing hot air into the cooling system causing it to overheat.