Locate the IP to body harness connector, THIS CONNECTOR IS UNDER THE DASH HIGH UP ON THE LEFT HAND SIDE. Check to see if there is a water leak into the area and repair as necessary. Use a water hose to determine the source of a water leak and effectiveness of repair. Some examples of potential water leaks are: A-pillar seals, sunroof drain lines (if so equipped) and windshield/cowl sealing. Finally, repair or replace the IP to body harness connector, making sure no corrosion or debris is left on or between the terminals.
IT IS ADVISABLE THAT YOU REMOVE THE INTERIOR CARPETING AND DRY IT THROUGHLY. IT WILL MOLD AND SMELL REALLY BAD AFTER A FEW DAYS IN THE HEAT.
USE A WATER HOSE STARTING LOW AND WORKING YOUR WAY UP TO DETERMING WHERE THE LEAK IS. OR USING A FOAMING TYPE WINDOW CLEANER SPRAY IT WHERE YOU THINK THE LEAK MIGHT BE AND USE COMPRESSED AIR FROM THE INSIDE ON THE TRUCK FOLLOWING THE SEAMS AND WINDSHIELD.
SOURCE: 2006 Chevy Colorado - I got a significant of water in cab on flr
This happened to me. Problem is that the wiring and transercase ECM under the floor mats are not weather sealed. To fix the 4X4 ECM youll need to take up all the flooring and sound proffing. They hold a lot of water and never real dry out. Next to replace the ECM its easyest to take out the drivers seat. Four blots hold it to the floor. The black box under the seat (under the floor mates) is the ECM for the transfer case. Replace that and get the conections in the wireing dry and you should be good.
SOURCE: 2006 colorado 4x4 crew cab 52000 miles - my power
check wiring loom in drivers door it is likely unpluged or it has cut some wires and taken out a fuse
SOURCE: door locks and power window
Just did this procedure I got from coloradofans.com forums:
"any type of power/voltage change
seems to trigger this issue
The most common symptom is power
locks fail and only the driver window quits, however that is on the
extended cab.
Steps to fix and it works every time.
take
door panel off driver's door
Disconnect the wiring attached to window
and power lock control unit
disconnect battery cables
connect
the negative to the positive cable(((NO BATTERY CONNECTED)))
This
will act to short residual voltage in the system
5 minutes later
place
the key in the ignition and turn to the run position
connect the
wiring to the window/lock controller
connect the negative cable to
the battery
then the positive
open drivers side door
turn key
to the off position((do not remove yet)) you should get a series of
dings through speakers telling you the key is still in the ignition
once
it begins dinging pull the key out and you should hear the door lock
solenoids trigger and the windows should work." - Coloradofans.com forums
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