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That usually causes a whole heap of troubles because the amp and radio are connected to the BCM and are part of the computer system. Things like turn signal clickers and door open chimes are actually part of the radio / amp system.
In the rear of your explorer, remove the right rear factory speaker. Look up in the hole exposed. That is where your factory amplifier lives. Whether you are trying to test, bypass, replace, or tap into the factory amp for an upgrade, all the wires are above the factory speaker hole. If you are doing a complex integration, it is fairly simple to remove the plastic panel that covers the entire area. How To Bypass Factory Explorer amp
Generally speaking, no. The computers are pre-programed at the factory for each year and engine-trans combo. Not to say one truck won't run with the other computer, but the check engine light may stay on and performance may suffer.
there is a storage compartment for the jack in the back of the vehicle on the drivers side. In that compartment you will see a white box. Your factory 5 digit entry code is printed on that box.
to add a new code -enter the factory code -immediately push the 1/2 button -immediately enter you new code
On your 1997 Ford Explorer, in the power distribution box in the engine compartment, in location # 4 there is a 30 amp maxi-fuse for the power windows, power moonroof, and power seat. DISCONNECT YOUR NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE - PD BOX IS 'LIVE" also in the fuse panel on the end of the dash, visible with driver's door open there is a 7.5 amp fuse in location # 12 for the power window relay, washer pump relay.
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