Power windows not working, 2 door car.

You say the driver window works? wouldn't be a main fuse or fusible link then -driver door locks and window wouldn't work either. Each door has a module inside (computer) . The driver door has a circuit breaker power feed an a fuse DDM fuse 10amp located in rear junction block circuit breaker is located in under hood maxi fuse block. The circuit breaker also feeds battery voltage to the other door modules too. PDM - passenger door module fuse 10amp located in the instrument panel fuse box and the RDM - rear door module RDM fuse 10amp located in the rear fuse box - under the back seat.

Each power window is connected to a permanent magnet motor. The motor raises or lowers the glass when the door module applies voltage to the motor. The direction the motor turns depends on the polarity of the supply voltage provided by the associated door module. The 2 front doors have their own separate modules. The rear seat contains a single module, which controls both of the rear power windows.
A serial digital communications link, called the simple bus interface, is used for communications between door modules and the driver's door power window switches. The use of serial digital communications allows the use of a single wire to convey switching information between the power door lock switch and the driver's door module (DDM). The serial communication is also used in order to transmit switching information from the DDM to the other 2 door modules.
The door modules apply battery voltage of the correct polarity to the respective window motor when any local, or power door lock switch, UP switch is operated, driving the window up. Battery voltage is applied to the respective window motor in the opposite polarity when any local, or power window switch, DOWN switch is operated, driving the window down.

Driver Door Module (DDM)
The driver's door module (DDM) directly controls the driver's door window motor and the express down window feature. The DDM sends window UP/DOWN messages received from the power door lock switch to the passenger door module (PDM) and to the rear door module (RDM) over the simple bus interface (SBI) line. The DDM also contains a class 2 data link which communicates with the other vehicle system modules. The left front power door locks and the outside power mirror are also controlled through the DDM.
Passenger Door Module (PDM)
The passenger door module (PDM) controls the passenger's door window motor. The PDM controls the passenger's door window directly from the right front power window switch or from instructions over the simple bus interface (SBI). The right front power door locks and the outside power mirror are also controlled through this module.
Rear Door Module (RDM)
The rear door module (RDM) controls both of the rear door window motors. The RDM controls the rear windows directly from the rear door window switches or from instructions over the simple bus interface (SBI).

After I verify both driver window control switch and the passenger wdo control switches don't cause the window to operate, I turn off engine and go on ACC Mode and listen for a relay clicking in the door or the BCM while you operate the switch. If you hear a click, then it's a bad wdo motor.

There is no separate fuse for power windows:
https://www.2carpros.com/questions/nissan-altima-2006-nissan-altima-windows-and-locks

https://oards.com/causes-of-power-windows-not-working/

Check in the under hood fuse block or power distribution center for fuse #72 and #75 these are 60 amp fuses. If the problem isn't there you have Two separate problems, check at the switches for battery voltage and ground. The most common problem is switches.

I could see one window not working from a broken wire inside the door flex , but not both back windows . Back windows are controlled by LF door module . Both back windows have different grounds - LR G200 an RR G201 . Also both rear window switches have different power supply's .RR switch fuse # 18 30 amp . LR is fuse b# 9 40 amp . Both window motors or switche's going out at same time ???? wouldn't think so .

• Driver door module circuits open/shorted.
• Loose, corroded connectors.
• Damaged window regulator control switch.
• Damaged window regulator electric drive.
• Open fuse in fuse junction panel Fuse 39 (10A), 28 (10A), 30 (10A).
• Open fuse in power distribution box Fuse 9 (40A), 10 (40A), 8 (40A).
• Glass, Frames and Mechanisms
  
  Inspection and Verification
  
  1. Verify the customer's concern by operating the power windows/heated back window to duplicate the condition.
  1. Inspect to determine if one of the following mechanical or electrical concerns apply:
     
     
     VISUAL INSPECTION CHART Mechanical Electrical
     • Front door power window regulator damaged.
     • Front window run damaged.
     • Front door window glass out of window run.
     • Front door window glass broken.
     • Driver door module circuits open/shorted.
     • Loose, corroded connectors.
     • Damaged window regulator control switch.
     • Damaged window regulator electric drive.
     • Open fuse in fuse junction panel Fuse 39 (10A), 28 (10A), 30 (10A).
     • Open fuse in power distribution box Fuse 9 (40A), 10 (40A), 8 (40A).
     • Scratched grid.
  1. If inspection reveals an obvious concern that is readily serviced, correct the concern before continuing with Inspection and Verification.
  1. If the concern remains after inspection, connect the Rotunda New Generation Star (NGS) Tester 007-00500 or equivalent to the data link connector (DLC) located beneath the instrument panel to perform DATA LINK DIAGNOSTICS test. If the NGS responds with NO RESPONSE/NOT EQUIPPED for the driver door module, go to Pinpoint Test A . If the NGS responds with NO RESPONSE/NOT EQUIPPED for the lighting control module, go to Pinpoint Test B . If the DATA LINK DIAGNOSTICS test is passed for the drivers door module and lighting control module, retrieve continuous DTCs and execute Self Test Diagnostics for the driver door module and lighting control module to retrieve current DTCs.
  1. If self test is passed and no DTCs are retrieved, go to the Symptom Chart to continue diagnostics.
  1. If DTCs are retrieved, go to the Driver Door Module (DDM) Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Index or Lighting Control Module (LCM) Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Index to continue diagnostics.
  1. If the driver door module cannot be accessed by the NGS, GO to Pinpoint Test A . If the lighting control module cannot be accessed by the NGS, go to Pinpoint Test B .
  Rotunda Service Bay Diagnostic System (SBDS®) 001-00001 may also be used to diagnose this system.
  
  • Power Windows Completely Inoperative
  • Supply open or shorted.
  • Ground open.
  • Window regulator control switch inoperative.
  • Circuits open or shorted.
  • Window regulator electric drive inoperative.
  • Driver door module.
  • PERFORM driver door module self test. Service DTCs. If no DTCs are retrieved, GO to Pinpoint Test C .
  • Single Power Window Inoperative
  • Window regulator electric drive circuits.
  • Window regulator electric drive.
  • Window regulator control switch circuits.
  • Window regulator control switch.
  • Driver door module.
  • GO to Pinpoint Test D .

In the fuse panel on the inside check the larger fuse marked 'POWER' it supplies voltage to the windows, sunroof and also the power door locks.

a blown fuse could cause the power windows to stop working. take it to your hyundai repair shop if you are unable to find the blown fuse.

Doesn't use a fuse , ues a circuit breaker . These very rarely go bad .The right rear door works ? Uses same circuit breaker as front passenger door. The power windows an locks on your vehicle are controlled by electronic control modules . FPDM - front passenger door module , I would look for a broken orange wire inside the flex boot from the body to the front right passenger door . This is power supply to the passenger door module . Do you know what wiring diagrams are ? Free here http://www.bbbind.com/free-tsb

In my 2008 Cobalt, the front speaker in the driver door went inoperative - no turn signal noise, no warning chimes for door open with key in, seatbelt chime, low fuel chime, and of course, no music. All of those sounds come through the speaker. I switched the driver door speaker and the passenger door speaker, and now I have all of those noises back.

If you have manual roll down windows, you'll have to buy a special tool to remove a little clip that's behind the roller handle. This tool was included in a kit for about $7 that I bought at Harbor Frieght, but you might be able to find the kit at other auto parts stores. Google "removing window crank" and you should be able to locate a video that shows how to get it off.

Anyway, I switched the speakers and now we just don't have music coming out of the passenger door speaker, but at least we have all of the warning chimes and turn signal clicking noise again.

The dealer wanted almost $200 for a new speaker and to replace it (labor). Rediculous.

Take the door panel off , remove the speaker, apply direct power to the wires. apply a large malet to the door near the motor, apply power direct while , applying 12 volts. as soon as it starts to work apply pc blaster or crc to every thing that moves. use the same procedure for the drivers side.