Yes, it will probably get messed up!! You might have already damaged the engine when you started it the first time. Re-check your cam and crank timing marks. Make sure they're EXACTLY lined up.
If in doubt, pay a mechanic to fix it!
SOURCE: 96 NISSAN MAXIMA SHUTS OFF UPON DECELLERATION OR WHEN STOPPED
Check to see if the floor on the passanger side is wet. If so, than your A/C drain clogged up and your ECM/computer got flodded by water causing all sorts of funky stuff happening. Right next to the gas pedal is a small cover attached to the computer. It has a clip in it. Remove the clip and tug on the cover. Look at the top of the computer to see if its rusted up. Remove the other side cover also, which is on passanger side floor next to your left foot(if you sitting in passenger seat). and check other side of ECM/computer. Check the ECM for rust on top.
If ALL of that looks OK, than I would replace the switch,(since you are telling me that the key got VERY hot) that is mounted on the back of the ignition cylinder. Its a white round switch that failes after a while especially car beeing 1996, just think about how many times that ignition has been turned ON/OFF since 1996. The mechanism in the switch failes, causing starting issues and funky electrical issues.
Does the car have a remote starter installed?? Or didi it have one in the past?? I have seen companies that install them cause some damage to the harnesses on the switch that is mounted to the back of the igniton cylinder. They use "scotch locks" to connect the remote starter and after a while the connection corrode and cause problems too.
Anyways, check the computer for rust first. Than I would install that switch on back of the igniton. You can buy the switch seperately. You dont need the whole ignition assembly/switch only. Switch is pretty cheap (approx $50 ?). Try that and post results. I would feel pretty good about the switch beeing faulty. I have ssen them fail in the past and that's where your power comes into for the starter circuit.(key getting HOT, switch shorting out, making the key hot and starting the car without the key)
SOURCE: want to remove the water pump on a 96' nissan
A word of advise from someone who has worked for a Nissan dealer and has been trained on their products. In your particular case, the VG30DE is an expensive motor to make a mistake on.
There are no real short cuts which I would advise you to take. It is far too easy to have an over site because of a skipped procedure.
Skipping a procedure on this engine can have devastating results.
It is far better to take your time, look up the actual recommended procedure, whether in a Nissan manual, All Data, Mitchell manuals or other reliable source. They will provide you with the correct procedure in which to R&R the water pump.DON'T guess at it! A seasoned tech will more often than not, consult these reference for the proceedures because they, 9 times out of 10 will save them time and grief! Back when the Nissans were Datsun 240,60and 80 Z's, I could tell you of short cuts on many proceedures which would beat the hell out of the flat rate book times. Doing a 78 280Z clutch never took me more than an hour!
I could pull an engine on one, tear it down and give you a list of wht it needed in parts in less than two hours! Those days are GONE!
What we have to work on today are more sophistocated and far more crammed together and stuffed in tight places to save weight and production costs. On many cars you could drop a whole tube of BB's in an engine compartment and not one would hit the floor!
To sum it up "david bluelog" your best savings is to do the job right and follow the proceedures to the letter.
I hope I was helpful even though you might not like my answer.
SOURCE: 96 Nissan Maxima Radio Antenna
The gears are going out in the motor. If the antenna goes up and down, then the gears have corrosion. If it does not move....then the gears are toasted or the antenna cable inside the housing is broken.
SOURCE: Water pump replacement 1996 nissan maxima
all you need to do is just back up on the chain and it will give you the space you need to remove thw water pump you may all so need to first see is you have water in your oil if not then it not you pump can you tell what color your oil is ?
SOURCE: 96 Nissan maxima -Loud Belt-like noise
try some belt dressing (spray in a can) you can get at any auto part supply,it worked for me
Place a drain pan underneath the radiator. When the engine is cool, drain the cooling system from the radiator into the pan.
Place a car jack underneath the oil pain to support it. Also, to protect the engine parts, put a block of wood onto the jack.
Disconnect the negative battery cable and remove the engine mount and bracket on the right side.
Take out the drive belts as well as the idler pulley bracket, the chain tensioner cover and the water pump cover.
Push the timing chain tensioner sleeve up and put a stopper pin in it to keep it from slipping. Take out the chain tensioner assembly.
Turn the crankshaft pulley in a backward motion until it rotates 20 degrees.
Place 2 MB bolts into the threaded holes of the pump and tighten them by hand, alternating turning a half turn each at a time unit they reach the timing chain rear case. Doing it this way will prevent damage to the timing chain rear case.
Remove the water pump, throwing away the old o-rings. Make sure not to let the water pump hit the timing chair.
Clean all the mounting surfaces on the water pump and covers.
Install the new water pump with the new o-rings, tightening the bolts to 75 to 95 inch pounds (8.5 to 10.7 Nm).
Turn the crankshaft pulley back to its starting position (20 degrees forward).
Install the chain tensioner and water pump covers, tightening to .092 to 130 inch pounds (2.3 to 3.3 mm).
Take out the stopper pin from the timing chain tensioner.
Put a bead of liquid sealant onto the mating surfaces of the water pump and timing chain tensioner.
Install the timing chain tensioner with the water pump to the engine block, tightening the bolts to 87 to 113 inch pounds.
Add the drive belts, the idler pulley bracket and the engine mounting bracket with the engine mount.
Reinstall the negative battery cable and remove the jack from under the engine. Install drain plugs to the cylinder block.
Start the car and check for leaks when the engine reaches normal operating temperature.
Make sure tension-er pulley is not too
tight...if it still continues to make noise it will need to be
replaced.
You should be-able to twist the belt 1/4 (twist) with
your fingers, fairly easy. If its to hard to twist, loosen a little.
If too loose, tighten a little...
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