I think it would start by having the battery load tested or if its the original battery it's probably due for replacement.
I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa
SOURCE: 2002 Chrysler Sebring Convert wont turnover
If you're not hearing a click from the starter check for a starter relay. May be burned out! DO you hear the fuel pump kick in when you turn the key on? If not something might have triggered your security system and locked you out!
SOURCE: 2005 Chrysler town & country touring won't turn over.
Sounds like you need a starter, or you have a loose wire somewhere under the hood.
SOURCE: 2001 Sebring won't start
I had same problem when I had a plain copy of the key made.
There's a proximity chip in the factory key or something, but the plain copy would not work. Engine would crank, then immediately stop. I didn't need the extra key bad enough to spend $80+ at the dealership.
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I put jumper cables on my car and jump started my car from my GF's Ford Explorer and my car started right up. We let her SUV run with the jumper cables attached to my car for 10 minutes occassionally pressing the accelerator on her vehicle to a steady 2000 RPMs. After 10 minutes we took the jumper cables off and my car started to stall. I pressed my gas pedal and it continued to run. Did this several times. Then i just let of gas and it stopped running. When i turned my key to start the starter didn't turn over. All fuses, interior and under hood, including alternator fuse, were checked and i have no blown fuses. I removed the driver side front tire and removed the battery and no corrossion whatsoever. I hooked it up to a battery charger and it said Connection and then a few seconds later it said charging and then after 5 minutes it said 25% charged. This leads me to believe that my alternator is bad. It's a 120 amp alternator, but i want to replace it with a 200 amp bolt for bolt alternator. I found one brand new, not remanufatured, still in unopened packaging for $200 on EBay. I researched the brand and it said no modifications necessary that it would fit bolt for bolt. My question is: Could something like a sensor ect. be causing my alternator not to charge the battery? Why can i drive the car, but as soon as i let off the gas it starts to die? Then upon taking the battery out and putting on charger it's completely dead. After charging the battery i'm going to take it to the place i bought it back in May of this year for testing to see if the cells are sulfated and if so get a new battery and if the battery is fine i want to know if i replacing the alternator is all i need to do. It seems that way. I can't take my car to a parts store to hook it up for diagnostics because i can't drive it there and it's illegal to tow a vehicle with tow strap or tow chains. You have to tow by tow truck. I'm disabled and had to have help with all this stuff. I'm on a limited income. Burt the starter can't be bad because when jump starting the car it turns over.
*Illegal to use to tow straps or tow chains in Oklahoma.*
If it ran with your foot on the gas than the alternator is working. The computers is trying to relearn idle after the dead battery. Have the battery tested or replaced.
Thank you, Jeremy. After giving it some thought that makes absolute sense. I'm no mechanic but it does seem like a common sense approach and a start with with the simple things and eliminating other things that could be wrong. I think i will see if i can get someone to my house to run diagnostics on my car. Hopefully it will pull some codes that will lead to the specific problem. Thank you for taking the time to make some suggestions. I truly appreciate it.
Ok i found out the problem. Fully charged battery and had it checked out and it was perfectly fine. Put it in my car and drove to AutoZone and they tested battery again while in my car and then started the car and tested the alternator. The alternator was starting to fail. It has a built in voltage regulator. At an idle the alternator charged the battery fine. But at higher RPM the alternator did not charge enough. The more RPMs the worst the performance of the alternator and the worst the battery was drained. No check engine light ever came on. I ordered a 200 amp alternator and i will have it by Thursday. The factory amperage of alternator is 120 amps. I decided to go with 200 amp alternator because i'm putting in my 12 inch subs and 1000 watt amp. I'm having the installation done professionally even though i know how to do the alternator and the wiring for the amp and sub. Thank you for your help.
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