The breaks drag and the wheels get pretty hot.
How do I know if the master cylinder is going out?
How do I know if the booster is going out.
I press on the breaks before starting, and then the break pedal goes down a bit after starting. Does that mean the booster is ok?
When driving the vehicle slows down and comes to a complete stop without applying the breaks
Help!!
4-wheel disc brakes on 4x4 worked well for 6 yrs - then grinding noise of 'metal on metal'. RR caliper had seized and inside pad wore down to metal. Intalled new pads on both rear wheels, used c-clamp to slowly compress pistons - no apparent problems during replacement... Now, when driving, the rear brakes drag and both the rear discs get smoking hot, so much so that the vehicle slows down and comes to a complete stop without applying the brakes. Front pads are fine - discs are cool to touch. The brake fluid resevoir level is half an inch higher now than before the pad change - attributed that to pistons not being extended at far with new pads. Did not open any bleed valves or add/remove any brake fluid. No visible fluid leaks anywhere. Don't have the common rusted brake-lines issue. Can't figure out how to get the pressure to release on the rear pistons.
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Take the truck to a professional and have the rear brake pads, rotors, calipers and brake fluid replaced. You should not be doing this work yourself. You are not qualified. I am not saying this to be mean, just safe and sensible. You have probably wasted more fuel because of this problem than the proper repair would have cost.
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