2003 Tribute stuttering, especially in low gears, like it wants to stall (it never has stalled out, but I lose power, the rpms drop and I have to floor it to get anything out of it). It usually happens in lower gears/lower speeds, don't notice it so much on the highway. Odd thing, this comes and goes. When it happens, the AC stops being cold. It still blows, but not cold air. As soon as the engine comes back to life, the air is cold again. Not getting anything odd on the dash (no cel, not overheating, no low oil pressure, but the RPMs definitely drop when it happens). Any and All HELP is Appreciated!

SOURCE: engine light on 2002 mazda protege is on even after changing o2

Try cleaning the Mass Airflow (MAF) Sensor. My 2002 Protege check engine light came on and it started stalling at stoplights if I didn't keep the engine revved a little. Manager at AutoZone checked the computer code for the light (P0171?), and it said it was running lean. He suggested I try the MAF sensor cleaner they have ($6.99) rather than replacing the 02 sensor, etc.; it made a *significant* difference. (I think I need to do it again to get it totally cleaned out, but the can is for at least 4 cleanings.) The MAF sensor is the large component that air goes through right after the air filter. If you don't have the repair manual for the car (search online for PDF's), you search for the part online to see what it looks like. Mainly, it's a tube about 4" across with some small wire things inside. The cleaner can said it was a 10 minute job; mine took 20 minutes, but only because the tube leading from the MAF sensor to whatever is next (a kind of bent elbow tube, with a couple of accordian-style ripples) tore, and I had to duct-tape that up to seal it. (Still haven't gotten that replaced - found them online for ~$40. Maybe this weekend...)

SOURCE: The engine cuts out(spits and sputters)at low rpms while the ac is on. If I downshift and get the rpms up it quits. Or if I turn off the AC while it's cutting out it stops. The problem lessened when I

Check the wires one at a time for oil on them when you remove them fron cylinder spark plug. If there is an excess of oil on them, they will short out to the housing under load and wii eventually kill the coil unit. They are not cheap, but if bad replace all at same time. Ford sells the wires and mazda. I would advise replacing the plugs with good plugs like ngk or denso. I will check again tomorrow to see if you need further help

SOURCE: Stalling Tribute

sounds like a timing isue
have them do a sensor test
start the car on a hoist then tap the engine or if posable tap the timing sensor and also try shaking the wires running to the knock sensor and the tining sensor or distributor

SOURCE: Mazda 626 'HOLD' light after gear box oil seal was replaced

I have the same problem with my car I think its the torque converter clutch but you should visit a diagonestic machine just to find out

SOURCE: 2004 Mazda RX8 Heater problem

There is a well known problem that is a manufacturer's defect with the soldered connection on the circuit board behind the temperature knob. There is a fix to re-solder the connections but the dealer will gladly take $450 to replace it with the same bad board that will last you a while. Look for the link to show you how to fix it yourself.