Replaced friction plate and cant bleed out clutch properly

A grinding noise means something is 'rubbing'. Is yours a fluid operated clutch or a cable operated one? A new cable operated clutch can sometime need adjusting and a fluid setup will need bleeding to get any air bubbles out of the fluid lines. Both of these can stop the clutch plate moving far enough causing noise AND damage. If you take the clutch off again Take a very good look at it to make sure the grinding hasn't damaged the friction material on the clutch plate
Was the clutch plate lined up correctly before you refitted the pressure plate? Some clutch kits supply a special splined tool to keep things lined up as you tighten the pressure plate down. Even if the plate is slightly out of position it won't sit properly and drag on the flywheel surface.

Sounds like the clutch cable needs adjustment so that the clutch is completely disengaged for shifting. Being a hydraulic clutch operation system there is no adjustment I'm afraid bar pedal height at the master cylinder push rod to pedal and that wouldn't solve the problem - as over all adjustment generally occurs as the clutch wears..so a good clutch would bite in the region of between the floor and mid way on the clutch pedal travel..if bite point is flat to floor then it possible you have drag on the clutch or its not clearing properly either a fault on the release system/hydraulic side either weak slave/master cylinder "prob try to bleed through again maybe and see if any improvement is felt"..or defective drive plate, buckled plate,weak pressure plate which releases the friction plate or seizure on spines/seized spigot bearing all of which would require inspection with the gearbox out. Hope this helps.

First of all you said that the disk is in backwards. If this is the case, then it's possible that the friction plate is grinding on the flywheel and isn't transmitting any drive to the gearbox input shaft.
If you are certain that your friction plate has been installed the wrong way around, then you MUST do the job again and re-install. Im most cases an incorrect installation should have been obvious as the clutch cover plate would most often be difficult to tighten down and the friction plate would often be very difficult to align before tightening down the cover plate.

My guess is that you perhaps have another issue. You may have an issue with the release bearing, or release lever/assembly. I am not familiar with your model of vehicle, but does it have a clutch cable or hydraulic action? If it's a cable, then make certain that the cable has been re-adjusted after the new clutch plate install. If your adjustment is too tight then your clutch is basically disengaged and your car won't drive. If it's too loose, then you won't be able to disengage the clutch.
If you have a hydraulic system, then first try bleeding any air from the system and try operating the clutch once more.


Additional questions:

1) Can you select gears with the engine turned off? If no, then check your gear selector mechanism for fitment and operation.

2) If a gear can be selected, then with the vehicle started, does the vehicle move? If no, then check clutch cable adjustment, or remove gearbox and check friction plate, and cover fitment as well as release bearing operation.

3) When you hear a creak in the bell-housing, is the engine running or not running? If not running, then check clutch cable adjustment or bleed hydraulic lines and try again. If no luck, then remove gearbox and start again.

Bleeding the hydraulics will not improve the friction drive of the clutch in any way,your clutch drive plate is worn out and needs replacing. To bleed the hydraulic line ,make sure that the master cylinder is fully topped up,pump clutch lever several times then tie ,using a zip tie the clutch lever all the way to the handle bar,gently open the bleed screw and await fluid to start dripping from the bleed screw, this may take an hour or two but it will eventually bleed itself,once 25% of the fluid has discharged from the the master cylinder tighten up the bleed screw and this is the easiest DIY way of bleeding a hydraulic system, without a pressure bleeder.

it could be either the master cylinder or the slave cylinder,it could also be the clutch pressure plate check the master & slave cylinders first because if it's the pressure plate the gear box will have to be removed to replace the pressure plate, even if you are uncertain it is most likely cheaper to replace the master & slave cylinders than it would be to replace the pressure plate.....hope this helps......cheers.

i think you may have fitted the friction plate on backwards...did you find connecting the bell housing tight also ??should just slip on with no resistance at all.

bleed out the clutch fluid, to the slave cylinder, it uses the same fluid as in the brake system and takes it from the brake fluid resevour, so dont let it drain low- keep toping it up as you bleed the clutch line, if problem still persists, you must be sure you put the clutch friction plate in the right way.

You will have to remove the transmission and replace your clutch.

The throw out bearing has failed and needs to be replaced, along with your pressure plate and friction disk.

If you need further assistance let me know.

The clutch disk has broker, a piece of the friction disk material has boken loose and is wedged between the friction disk and the preasur plate. I had this happen to my '77 280Z. You will need to replace the friction disk.

The problem is very unlikely to be your flywheel it sounds as if your clutch diaphragm spring is either cracked or distorted.Sorry but it sounds like a gear box /clutch job not to bad .The scheduled time is 2.6hrs hope this helps