SOURCE: CV joint replacement
Generally no tool is required. If you use a "pickle fork" you will risk damaging the dust boot.
Have you tried whacking the spindle right near where the ball joint stud comes through? This will take a few good shots to break it loose.
Be careful not to hit the threads!
SOURCE: transmission on 1991 honda accord
If it drives forwards OK with no grinding noise then it is probably cable adjustment.
Unlike forward gears there is no synchronmesh on reverse therefore you need full clutch seperation. Check there is no slack in the cable at all.
SOURCE: changing the cv joints in 89 honda crx
No you do not need to remove the motor. You will need to remove the driveshaft from the gearbox (driver side) so you may need to drain the gearbox oil. Passenger side has an intermediate shaft and the drive shaft can be split without removing from the gearbox.
One the shaft is off remove the outer boot and nock the old CV joint off with a hammer and somthing to take the impact without damaging the joint (incase its re-useable). I used the rubber end of a screwdriver on the joint and hit the metal end of the driver with a hammer.
If the CV joint boot you have recieved is not the strechy type you will need to slide it onto the shaft prior to installing the new joint.
To install the new joint can be a chew. There is a circlip seated in a groove on the outer splines of the driveshaft. This clip is slightly larger than the groove it sits in must be "negotiated" into the groove while you slide the new cv joint over (Use a flathead screwdriver to prize the circlip in as you push the new CV joint onto the shaft.) Once you get this right the CV joint will slide down and the circlip will make an audiable click and pop out of the groove on the inside of the joint holding the join in place.
Pack the joint with the grease provided. Slide the boot over and fasten the boot in place with the metal straps and put your car back together.
Beware of new Circlips - my old one was mishapen so I used the new one provided and it was massive in comparison. It took me and a friend a good hour and a half just to get the new CV joint over the circlip - patience is a virtue :D
Incase you can get the shafts out....
Best way is to split the bottom ball joint and suspension wishbone. I'm not a massive fan of this as bottom ball joints have caused me too many issues. I split the tom ball joint and the tracking rod end to give enough movement to get the driveshafts out.
Also never pull on the driveshaft its self as this can pull apart the inner joint inside its boot which is a real faff on to get back together (trust me). Use a screwdriver or small crow bar to prize the shaft out at the gearbox end.
SOURCE: how often to replace cv boots/cv joints/axle?
If something off the road tore the boot, yes but if it has not been tore long and you don't hear any clicking noises around corners, you can just replace the boot.
SOURCE: cv boot replacement - how important is it?
I would not let them go for to long, it will only cost you more money in the long run. I have had several front wheel drive cars, one being a honda. I let them go for a few months when I new they needed replacing. All the dust and little rocks and debris got in there. I ended up having to replace both drive axels and also replacing the boots. So I would get this fixed as soon as possible.
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