I like Oldfrog's solution, hope it works.
If not, the wheel bearing is a possibility; so are the Inner Tie Rods as well as the Axle or CV Joint.
There are some cases of even the transmission or drive line feeling like a front end shake; it might be worth paying $100 to a competent Ford dealer for a proper analysis or trust me, you'll spend much more than that just replacing stuff that didn't need replacing! Start with the simplest thing, check those nuts. As long as you're at it, make sure the tires are equally inflated and not low.
It might be your wheel bearings
SOURCE: Ford Escape Breaks
Did you replace them yourself or did you take them to a "qualified brake specialist"? It sounds like your brake lines need to be bled properly. You may also have one or more calipers sticking to cause the vibration.
SOURCE: shaking/vibration in front end & steering wheel
Nor sure about the 2001 model, but on the 97 model, the track bar bolts to the frame on the driver's side. The bolts work loose. Dont merely look at it, go ahead and tighten them. There are two bolts facing upward, at the end lf the track bar. Then there are 3 nuts behind the driver's side front wheel that need to be tight. You dont have to take the wheel off so see them. I tightened all of mine and the death wobble nearly went away ....( 90%)....then I replaced the steering stabilizer ( damper). Hope your 2001 is just as easy !
SOURCE: My car shakes after applying brakes at high speeds
Well even though you had the rotors turned, they still could be warped and causing the car to shake at a high rate of speed when the brakes are applied. My suggestion is to replace the rotors asap.
SOURCE: 1999 Suzuki Grand Vitara Vibrate/shake at 55-70 mph
Lift the back of your car.With a stable rest and with the two hind wheels hanging, run your car up to the speed where you experienced vibration. have someone take care of the throttle and shifting while you observe the transmission shaft. You may have an imbalanced shaft.
SOURCE: 1995 Ford Crown Victoria - shakes/vibrates @ highway speeds.
Alignment has alot to do with the tires not shimmying.. Like zero toe setting. Loose componants like tie rod ends and the idler ar worn. You can ck for excess front end play by holding the front and back of the wheel and pushing and pulling on it, like rocking it. OR have someone rock the steering while you watch where the play is from underneath. By rocking I mean turn the steering wheel back and forth. Look at all th joints and pivot points for excess play, which is, movement not immediate to the rest of the steering system. Tire balance is very important. Wheel hop is a sign of a bad tire and it overtaxes the shock absorber. Shocks don't cause shimmy because they are a vertical movement controlA shimmy is lateral or side to side.Wheel balance weights must be spit. If a 2 oz. weight is needed to balance the tire, Oe once should be on the inside of the wheel and one ounce on the outside directly across from each outher.. Loose wheel brgs will cause shimmy, but they would not last long. Caster setting on the wheel alignment will also cause shimmy. Like on a shopping car. too much caster causes the wheel to start fluttering and is very hard on other componants. This may be why you have worn tie rod ends and a bad pitman arm. Worn control arm bushings and ball joints directly affect titre wear and can only be feltwhen the front end hits a dip and detected by side wear on the tire edges. Summary: replace the tie rod end and have the car aligned. Good Luck, -Ned_ sorry about the book
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